Toe links durable aftermarket options street use?
That is correct, the outer end of the toe link moves front to back relative to the vehicle as it moves up and down.
This is because the rear trailing link in the suspension pulls the rear lower arm forward and back in an arc as it moves up and down transfering this motion to the rear upright to which the toe link is attached.
FD rear suspension uses the pillowballs to allow this multiaxis movement without binding for excellent traction over rough surfaces.
This is because the rear trailing link in the suspension pulls the rear lower arm forward and back in an arc as it moves up and down transfering this motion to the rear upright to which the toe link is attached.
FD rear suspension uses the pillowballs to allow this multiaxis movement without binding for excellent traction over rough surfaces.
I bought new factory stock (not even Mazdaspeed) toe links because the SCCA class I was racing in required them.
They were a newer design than the 1993 toe links.
I have some aftermarket heim joint style I will switch up to before my next alignment as my race class went away.
Not sure of brand, bought them used with full set of spherical bearing FD suspension arms.
They were a newer design than the 1993 toe links.
I have some aftermarket heim joint style I will switch up to before my next alignment as my race class went away.
Not sure of brand, bought them used with full set of spherical bearing FD suspension arms.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,185
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From: Japanabama
That is correct, the outer end of the toe link moves front to back relative to the vehicle as it moves up and down.
This is because the rear trailing link in the suspension pulls the rear lower arm forward and back in an arc as it moves up and down transfering this motion to the rear upright to which the toe link is attached.
FD rear suspension uses the pillowballs to allow this multiaxis movement without binding for excellent traction over rough surfaces.
This is because the rear trailing link in the suspension pulls the rear lower arm forward and back in an arc as it moves up and down transfering this motion to the rear upright to which the toe link is attached.
FD rear suspension uses the pillowballs to allow this multiaxis movement without binding for excellent traction over rough surfaces.
I meant to use a pillowball here, but my installer didn’t follow my instructions, so I ended up with urethane bushings…
If someone used stuff urethane bushings on the inner lower rear arm bushing, what sort of symptoms do you think this would cause, if any?
The more spherical bearings you replace with poly the more it becomes a noticeable issue. The exposed suspension pivots are harder to keep greased as well.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,185
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From: Japanabama
Might squeek and will have a tiny bit less traction over rough pavement and bumps. The lower arm inner pivot is shrouded by the subframe sheetmetal so use a whole lot of grease to minimize these symptoms.
The more spherical bearings you replace with poly the more it becomes a noticeable issue. The exposed suspension pivots are harder to keep greased as well.
The more spherical bearings you replace with poly the more it becomes a noticeable issue. The exposed suspension pivots are harder to keep greased as well.
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Joined: Jul 2023
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From: Pittsburgh
You can get replacement pillowballs and upgraded Mazdaspeed factory bushings (which are mostly metal with just a little rubber) for the factory toe links.
The pillowball which goes on the outer part of the toe link (where it connects to the upright) is part number FD01-26-230, note this is smaller than the other pillowballs in the rear suspension and a slightly different part number so the J-auto ones won't fit. You need two pillowballs if you're doing both sides of the car.
The Mazdaspeed bushings (where it connects to the subframe) are part number F128-28-42Y and you might be able to get them from Mazdatrix if you don't have a Mazdaspeed Motorsports account. You need two bushings if you're doing both sides of the car. The install of the bushing isn't easy, you need to cut the steel shoulder off of the original bushing to remove it. It's like the rear lower arm bushing, but everything is smaller which makes it a little harder to press without damaging the toe link. I did something similar to this video, but used a dremel tool to cut away the entire sleeve so I could fit a socket or bushing press cup around the entire circular area of the toe link. https://youtu.be/IeExovWMHQA?t=564
I filmed some of what I did when replacing the toe link bushings, the camera angles aren't great but I could probably post something on youtube in a few days if anyone is interested to see it.
The pillowball which goes on the outer part of the toe link (where it connects to the upright) is part number FD01-26-230, note this is smaller than the other pillowballs in the rear suspension and a slightly different part number so the J-auto ones won't fit. You need two pillowballs if you're doing both sides of the car.
The Mazdaspeed bushings (where it connects to the subframe) are part number F128-28-42Y and you might be able to get them from Mazdatrix if you don't have a Mazdaspeed Motorsports account. You need two bushings if you're doing both sides of the car. The install of the bushing isn't easy, you need to cut the steel shoulder off of the original bushing to remove it. It's like the rear lower arm bushing, but everything is smaller which makes it a little harder to press without damaging the toe link. I did something similar to this video, but used a dremel tool to cut away the entire sleeve so I could fit a socket or bushing press cup around the entire circular area of the toe link. https://youtu.be/IeExovWMHQA?t=564
I filmed some of what I did when replacing the toe link bushings, the camera angles aren't great but I could probably post something on youtube in a few days if anyone is interested to see it.
I noticed the you had issues getting out the bushing. In the FC service manual, it shows a different method to remove similar style bushings.
The bushing has an internal metal peice and an external. In-between is rubber. Use a large drill bit to drill out as much of the rubber as you can. I then used a saw to remove the rubber between the drill holes. The center metal peice drops out. The pressure on the outside collar is lessened. Take a chisel or other and get under the bushing and start hammering. Also, it should be easier for the press to get the bushing out too. Good luck with the bushing.
h…. With 16 kg spring and minimal aero, it probably doesn’t move enough for binding to be an issue…
Rather, the more force you put into deforming the bushing from resulting Gs of race tires and high spring rates the more friction the bushing will have.
Its a dynamic situation.
Ok, you dont notice less traction at neutral throttle in a straight line over bumps (why would you- could be airborn and continue straight and at speed), but throw some load into the bushing with cornering or accel/decel and now you notice the rear is lacking compliance and traction over bumps.
For this very reason most race cars replace bushings with sperical bearings. We just had a factory race car to start with.
For race application just use a stock used arm, an aftermarket spherical bearing or aftermarket arm with sphericals if you cant get the Mazda or Mazdaspeed rubber isolated spherical bearing.
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Mazda comp has like 3 levels, and Jim Downing. the bottom level is that you can order competition parts without needing race results, i feel like this is kind of a new thing.
then there is the one you're thinking of, where you're building a car.
they have something for a shop.
and then if Jim Downing orders a tail light for his 1967 Cosmo, he will get one.
then there is the one you're thinking of, where you're building a car.
they have something for a shop.
and then if Jim Downing orders a tail light for his 1967 Cosmo, he will get one.
Mazda comp has like 3 levels, and Jim Downing. the bottom level is that you can order competition parts without needing race results, i feel like this is kind of a new thing.
then there is the one you're thinking of, where you're building a car.
they have something for a shop.
and then if Jim Downing orders a tail light for his 1967 Cosmo, he will get one.
then there is the one you're thinking of, where you're building a car.
they have something for a shop.
and then if Jim Downing orders a tail light for his 1967 Cosmo, he will get one.
Yeah, the program is awesome. You should register @Jatt
https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/get...am-membership/
One race result in a Mazda is needed to activate or renew an MTSP membership for 24 more months from that race date.
https://www.mazdamotorsports.com/get...am-membership/
REGISTERING IS EASY:
- Be a legal resident of either the United States, Canada or Mexico (however, we only ship parts within the Continental U.S.)
- Either be building a Mazda for competition or have competed or participated in one sanctioned event approved by Mazda within the last 24 months
- For those competing in autocross, road racing, time trials, Rally/RallyCross, and drag racing, you must have a valid membership with a sanctioning body/organization approved by Mazda such as the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA), the National Auto Sport Association (NASA), ChampCar, American Endurance Racing (AER), Lucky Dog Racing, World Racing League (WRL), Badger Midgets, Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs and others. Call 800.435.2508 with questions.
- For those participating in track days, high-performance driving experience (HPDE) and other forms, you may also be eligible and do not need a membership with an approved sanctioning body.
One race result in a Mazda is needed to activate or renew an MTSP membership for 24 more months from that race date.
I realize not many people need this info, but I put together some toe link bushing footage from when I replaced the rear suspension bushings in my car recently. I won't claim my method is the best method, but it worked well enough and avoided the risk of NVH or premature wear that some people have complained about when using aftermarket links. The video could definitely be trimmed down to feel less dull, but sometimes small details can be helpful to people who haven't done the job yet.
Did anyone ever work out what the size and thread pitch the rod ends in the tcs toe links are? Heim joint/rod ends TCS uses in these links are garbage. Both of mine have a ton of play in them after only a couple thousand street miles. And what is the go-to brand? Still pegasus?
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