Rear Suspension Bushing - Replacements
Rear Suspension Bushing - Replacements
Now that the front end is tight, the deficiency in the rear is more obvious.
Hit a manhole cover about 2" lower than street level, on a turn, with only one rear wheel and it felt like the rear was fishtailing.
I'm planning on replacing all the rubber with Energy Urethane from RB:
End Link Set
Sway bar Bushing
4 Links (upper & lower)
Watts Link
Any known concerns?
The car has 165k on it. I checked my father's records (PO), and only the front sway bar bushings were ever replaced. I only put about 3k miles on it per year, so I don't think I'll be putting on more the 45-60k before it gets retired.
Hit a manhole cover about 2" lower than street level, on a turn, with only one rear wheel and it felt like the rear was fishtailing.
I'm planning on replacing all the rubber with Energy Urethane from RB:
End Link Set
Sway bar Bushing
4 Links (upper & lower)
Watts Link
Any known concerns?
The car has 165k on it. I checked my father's records (PO), and only the front sway bar bushings were ever replaced. I only put about 3k miles on it per year, so I don't think I'll be putting on more the 45-60k before it gets retired.
For the all the 4 link and watts link ""Stay with rubber""!!! They bind already. But if you go to Urethane it gets even worse!
Do the front and sway bar end links with urethane. It helps a lot.
As far as the 4 link goes, I use them (for racing when you have to say with the stock suspension). The softer the better. As long as they don't have play in them.
I put new ones on every season. To have the freshest, softest rubber as possible.
(sell the take offs for 1/2 price).
There are other options too. But then you start modding things. T3 has a Bolt on Panhard bar to replace the watts link. I haven't tried it. But I'm sure it helps a little. As our stock watts links have un-even length links, and so have issues keeping things in place traveling up or down.
Do the front and sway bar end links with urethane. It helps a lot.
As far as the 4 link goes, I use them (for racing when you have to say with the stock suspension). The softer the better. As long as they don't have play in them.
I put new ones on every season. To have the freshest, softest rubber as possible.
(sell the take offs for 1/2 price).
There are other options too. But then you start modding things. T3 has a Bolt on Panhard bar to replace the watts link. I haven't tried it. But I'm sure it helps a little. As our stock watts links have un-even length links, and so have issues keeping things in place traveling up or down.
