3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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time to rebuild :D progress updated

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Old May 20, 2007 | 06:04 PM
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time to rebuild :D progress updated

my first rebuild / big project on the fd. after taking 2 months getting a dp on, i had 2 good weeks with the fd before the coolant seals gave out. the leak isn't too bad but there are other problems as well like leaky exhaust gaskets etc.. i did consider block weld for as a temporary solution but i've decided to do it the right way. this summer will be the last time in a while i'll have enough time to finish a project like this and hope i to get it done in time

clearing out the engine bay, its amazing how many times have had to do this the past 2 years lol. most fd owners must be able to do this in their sleep. strutbar and front air ducting already removed


almost ready to pull, the transmission is coming out with it, a/c and powersteering lines etc still have to go but i haven't figured them out yet


box of fun, nuts and bolts in labelled zip-locked bags

Last edited by sevensix; May 20, 2007 at 06:23 PM.
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Old May 20, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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fuilds

motor oil ~4.5quarts, coolant 2 gallons, 1 each from radiator, 1 from block. ~.6 gal of tranny fuild <---- this stuff doesn't smell good at all

picked up a new 2 ton engine hoist at kragen today. its put together pretty well and costs $107 after tax. plus it doesn't come with a leveler or chains. i'll be going to homedepot for two 6-7 foot chains.


the guy working at kragen gave me a look and told me theres no way it was going to fit when he saw the car i was taking it home in.. lol


almost forgot to drain the block, it gets everywhere and makes a good mess on the floor too


didn't know the tranny plugs had magnets. makes me wonder about the magnetic ones for the oil pan
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Old May 23, 2007 | 05:42 PM
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i can't get the ppf nuts/bolts off. whats the best way to approach this. already tried pb blaster but i don't think thats the problem. i have a 12" breaker bar do i just need a longer one?

1 aluminum crossbar near the cat, cat air pipe, 2 motor mount nuts have been removed. did i miss anything that i need to under the car?
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:29 PM
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croyel is what i used on every bolt.
and there are three nuts on the motor mounts.
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Old May 23, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sevensix
almost ready to pull, the transmission is coming out with it, a/c and powersteering lines etc still have to go but i haven't figured them out yet
Do you have thiis piicture in original size? I want to see how AC lines were routed. I just destroyed AC line because it was touching main pulley
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Old May 23, 2007 | 10:24 PM
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A good impact gun works wonders
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Old May 24, 2007 | 12:49 AM
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katit send me a pm with your email i can get you the full size picture.

i took a long break for dinner then got the nuts off with a new longer breaker.

wish i had a impact, and a lift
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Old May 24, 2007 | 01:15 AM
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small detour, i received an unexpected response to a pm i wrote a few month ago when trying to diagnose my engine problems. confused.. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/coolant-problem-help-help-114514/
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Old May 24, 2007 | 03:26 PM
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Good luck on the project Alex. You going to port it?
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Old May 24, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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coming along pretty good...i'll be pulling mine this winter...got my prelude apart right now...putting it back together ...and going to try to enjoy both cars for summer....
good luck

brad
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Old May 24, 2007 | 08:51 PM
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Good luck man......

There's heaps of work ahead of you!

I hope you have as much fun as I did!
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Old May 24, 2007 | 11:01 PM
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Where are you in SoCA? I would like to drop by and check out your progress in person sometime or even help (for free ) if you need it.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 11:48 PM
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thanks for the support, i got the engine and tranny pulled today learned a few things in the process.

don't get chains that are too long or the hoist can't pull it up high enough to clear the bumper

don't work on a incline or the hoist will be pulled into the front bumper of the car ()

i don't know how i would have done it without the load leveler bar. if u're doing the job GET IT. i got one for 29.99 at harbor freight and its TOTALLY worth it, it comes with 2 chains so the cost is offset a bit by that. i used the 1300lb quick links, 2.99 for pack of 3, which were used to secure the chains to the UIM and front pull positions. btw clip these abouth 1/2way up the length of the chains.

if u have the stock intercooler duct, no need to remove it, it will clear it okay.

the easiest way to get the rubber plug/wiring harness out of the firewall is the push it from the inside of the cabin. i used the end of the tire iron for this, takes a good amount of force.

and watch out for the tranny and driveshaft after the nuts securing the ppf are removed, they may fall. i used jacks to prop them up, and the cat section too when i was removing it.
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Old May 24, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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and mike im in huntington beach and i could definitely use some help lol
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Old May 25, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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haha love the shot with the miata & the FD.

i've been thinking about getting a miata as a daily driver...
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Old May 25, 2007 | 01:00 PM
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Black FD's look so slick and mean when they're clean...mmm..

Good luck with the rebuild.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:25 PM
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Exclamation PM box is FULL!

Originally Posted by sevensix
and mike im in huntington beach and i could definitely use some help lol
Clear your PM box man!
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 05:05 PM
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rotor rotor pow.
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haha.. no internet the last few weeks everyone

mike i cleared a special spot in the pmbox. i'll b hopping on the internet when i can.
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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you should do a full write up with pics on a rebuild so we (I) can learn lol.....
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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^ haha. more notes..

flywheel nut removal.. i went to sears for a few tools

2 1/8 inch socket, 3/4 inch drive- $27.99
adapter 1/2" --> 3/4" - $6.99
17 or 18" breaker bar --> $27.99

locked the flywheel using the short chain and bolt method

foot on UIM to keep the engine from flipping over whille i torqued the breaker bar, came off a lot easier than i thought it would, tools went flying to the floor though so the using hand tools def. works

counterweight was pretty simple.. used a regular hammer to and hit it 5-6 times hard @ the flat surface. i removed the flywheel from it before doing this.

overall i thought the flywheel removal would be a lot tougher from other experiences. glad its over with and glad it wasn't as much of a chore as i was expecting.
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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Here are some writeups to help you/others:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._teardown.html
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 08:27 PM
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Hey Alex, hope the video works for you. Let me know if you need anything else.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by spiritrmazda
Hey Alex, hope the video works for you. Let me know if you need anything else.

thanks steve

btw anyone rebuilding that is looking for a engine stand.. the harbor freight 750lb one works great($30 now, usually $40). just need to enlarge one of the holes on the mountingplate with a dremel/drill so they line up to 2 studs on the front plate of the engine.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 01:56 PM
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looking good What else are you planning on doing with the engine out?
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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Keep on truckin!
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