time to rebuild :D progress updated
 

my first rebuild / big project on the fd. after taking 2 months getting a dp on, i had 2 good weeks with the fd before the coolant seals gave out. the leak isn't too bad but there are other problems as well like leaky exhaust gaskets etc.. i did consider block weld for as a temporary solution but i've decided to do it the right way. this summer will be the last time in a while i'll have enough time to finish a project like this and hope i to get it done in time

clearing out the engine bay, its amazing how many times have had to do this the past 2 years lol. most fd owners must be able to do this in their sleep. strutbar and front air ducting already removed
https://img159.imageshack.us/img159/...scf7199hm0.jpg

almost ready to pull, the transmission is coming out with it, a/c and powersteering lines etc still have to go but i haven't figured them out yet
https://img518.imageshack.us/img518/...scf7242oc3.jpg

box of fun, nuts and bolts in labelled zip-locked bags :)
https://img138.imageshack.us/img138/...scf7262yb1.jpg

fuilds
 

motor oil ~4.5quarts, coolant 2 gallons, 1 each from radiator, 1 from block. ~.6 gal of tranny fuild <---- this stuff doesn't smell good at all

picked up a new 2 ton engine hoist at kragen today. its put together pretty well and costs $107 after tax. plus it doesn't come with a leveler or chains. i'll be going to homedepot for two 6-7 foot chains.
https://img517.imageshack.us/img517/...scf7257is1.jpg

the guy working at kragen gave me a look and told me theres no way it was going to fit when he saw the car i was taking it home in.. lol
https://img514.imageshack.us/img514/...scf7246xm4.jpg

almost forgot to drain the block, it gets everywhere and makes a good mess on the floor too :(
https://img79.imageshack.us/img79/7943/dscf7209wq4.jpg

didn't know the tranny plugs had magnets. makes me wonder about the magnetic ones for the oil pan
https://img501.imageshack.us/img501/...scf7214fw8.jpg

i can't get the ppf nuts/bolts off. whats the best way to approach this. already tried pb blaster but i don't think thats the problem. i have a 12" breaker bar do i just need a longer one?

1 aluminum crossbar near the cat, cat air pipe, 2 motor mount nuts have been removed. did i miss anything that i need to under the car?

croyel is what i used on every bolt.
and there are three nuts on the motor mounts.

Do you have thiis piicture in original size? I want to see how AC lines were routed. I just destroyed AC line because it was touching main pulley

A good impact gun works wonders

katit send me a pm with your email i can get you the full size picture.

i took a long break for dinner then got the nuts off with a new longer breaker.

wish i had a impact, and a lift :)

small detour, i received an unexpected response to a pm i wrote a few month ago when trying to diagnose my engine problems. confused.. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/coolant-problem-help-help-114514/

Good luck on the project Alex. You going to port it?

coming along pretty good...i'll be pulling mine this winter...got my prelude apart right now...putting it back together ...and going to try to enjoy both cars for summer....
good luck

brad

Good luck man......

There's heaps of work ahead of you!

I hope you have as much fun as I did!

Where are you in SoCA? I would like to drop by and check out your progress in person sometime or even help (for free :) ) if you need it.

thanks for the support, i got the engine and tranny pulled today :D learned a few things in the process.

don't get chains that are too long or the hoist can't pull it up high enough to clear the bumper

don't work on a incline or the hoist will be pulled into the front bumper of the car (:()

i don't know how i would have done it without the load leveler bar. if u're doing the job GET IT. i got one for 29.99 at harbor freight and its TOTALLY worth it, it comes with 2 chains so the cost is offset a bit by that. i used the 1300lb quick links, 2.99 for pack of 3, which were used to secure the chains to the UIM and front pull positions. btw clip these abouth 1/2way up the length of the chains.

if u have the stock intercooler duct, no need to remove it, it will clear it okay.

the easiest way to get the rubber plug/wiring harness out of the firewall is the push it from the inside of the cabin. i used the end of the tire iron for this, takes a good amount of force.

and watch out for the tranny and driveshaft after the nuts securing the ppf are removed, they may fall. i used jacks to prop them up, and the cat section too when i was removing it.

and mike im in huntington beach and i could definitely use some help lol

haha love the shot with the miata & the FD.

i've been thinking about getting a miata as a daily driver...

Black FD's look so slick and mean when they're clean...mmm..

Good luck with the rebuild.

PM box is FULL!
 

Clear your PM box man!

haha.. no internet the last few weeks everyone

mike i cleared a special spot in the pmbox. i'll b hopping on the internet when i can.

you should do a full write up with pics on a rebuild so we (I) can learn lol.....

^ haha. more notes..

flywheel nut removal.. i went to sears for a few tools

2 1/8 inch socket, 3/4 inch drive- $27.99
adapter 1/2" --> 3/4" - $6.99
17 or 18" breaker bar --> $27.99

locked the flywheel using the short chain and bolt method

foot on UIM to keep the engine from flipping over whille i torqued the breaker bar, came off a lot easier than i thought it would, tools went flying to the floor though :) so the using hand tools def. works

counterweight was pretty simple.. used a regular hammer to and hit it 5-6 times hard @ the flat surface. i removed the flywheel from it before doing this.

overall i thought the flywheel removal would be a lot tougher from other experiences. glad its over with and glad it wasn't as much of a chore as i was expecting.

Here are some writeups to help you/others:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._teardown.html

Hey Alex, hope the video works for you. Let me know if you need anything else.

:) thanks steve

btw anyone rebuilding that is looking for a engine stand.. the harbor freight 750lb one works great($30 now, usually $40). just need to enlarge one of the holes on the mountingplate with a dremel/drill so they line up to 2 studs on the front plate of the engine.

looking good:icon_tup: What else are you planning on doing with the engine out?

Keep on truckin!