GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

What exactly do you mean by 'aggressive' port? Do you have pictures of the new port work?

matty

No idea man. Just going off of what I am told.

When people say warm starts are difficult due to low compression what does that mean?

Let me be specific. If I stall the car and I instantly try to turn it back over its hard to start to the point where I start to feel like I am going to be stranded. Here is exactly what's happening. I turn key. I get a little cough. Turn key a few more times. More coughs. Usually during these coughs, to me typical warm start problems due to poor compression you would gas it and it would come back to life. In this scenario gasing it actually kills it. You can not touch the gas. U have to let it struggle to life. Touching the gas is exactly what u don't want to do. To me this sounds like a leaky injector. And when I gas it more fuel means I am drowning it.

This is just my guess. I am not a mechanic. I am just using logic. I know what difficult warm starts are. THis isnt difficult. This seems VERY difficult. Fuel is the enemy. Would I smell gas in the engine bay if it's leaky? Fritz says I should look for thick white smoke and that's a sign of leaky Injector. I am gonna try that tomorrow. Any thing you can think of in terms of indentifying if it's a leaky Injector? I am a simpleton. So easy to check things?

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

In an unhealthy rotary, when the motor is hot the seal springs sag and therefore compression drops. When compression drops enough, the motor can't build enough compression for proper combustion at the rpm the starter is spinning at so it is difficult or impossible to start. It sounds like you have a tune related issue. Most likely the temperature correction maps need adjustment. I would speak to your tuner about this and see what he suggests. Leaky injectors can also cause difficult starting. Pull the upper intake manifold and pressurize the fuel system. This can be accomplished by keying on and running a jumper wire from the FP to GND pins in the diagnostics box. Look down the intake manifold runners with a pen light and see if you see/smell fuel dripping. I would do this after the car has sat overnight so any fuel from running has evaporated. I don't recall what injectors you have but I have had something like 4 or 5 of the 1300s that are bored from stock 850s leak or stick in the past few years. I won't sell them, install them, or work on a car with them again.

matty

I "think" I am good shape. I developed a high idle recently but have fixed it. The throttle body and tps where out of spec. I spent the last 24hours cleaning that up. The car is starting cleanly now although I have only tested it a little.

I do think I have a leaky injector still though. I get some white smoke at startup.

I am hesitant to say I am in the clear. I feel like a beaten dog. But hmmm. Looking good right now.

denizpa

iTrader: (9)

I think I saw your car at Speed1 about 2-3 weeks ago. Looks beautiful. When the previous owner was selling it; I was trying to get him to part the exhaust out to me. I recently found my own St. Mays. Your car is setup very similar to mine except I have no porting done and am running 13psi on stock twins.

Enjoy,
Deniz

matty

Exhaust is sick. Some one said "looks awesome and sounds even better"

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

Any updates?

matty

Nothing to really add. Car is running strong. This weekend I am adding the wide foot sway mounts and tanabe bar. I am getting some ground scraping with the front bar. I am hoping the wide foot would correct that as it raises the bar 1.5 inches.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

And then it will bind up in the lower arm

How low is your car when measuring from center fender to the ground?

matty

i been researching all that lately actually.

Ideally its I think:
25.5 rear
25.25 front

My car right now
25.25 rear
25.125 front driver( this side scrapes)
25.625 front passenger

Tomorrow i am going match the front to 25.125 and install the mounts and bar.

I think my heights are pretty close to norm. I saw howards recommended 25 all around then u said too low.

BTW my measurements are to the low point of the fender lip. the actual inner part. not the fold.that lip isnt entirely square. I am talking small small fractions though,.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

What size are your tires?

Stock size tire (225 50 16) is fine at 24.5 front and 25 rear. This car does much better IMO with some rake.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

OEM tires have an Overall Diameter of 24.9 inches..... anyone who can slam that bad boy to 24.5 inches must be a damn Magician

matty

Get this...the tanabe bar came damaged. The bolt at the end was bent. They better honor this thing. Got from evasive

I got wide foot mounts in at least and cleaned up my ride height. Doing 25.5 rear and 25.25 front. Truth be told I'd like to go lower.

My tires are 18. Is it best to stay where I am at?
What's up with the number in the top of the zeal shocks. It's set to 6. Is this what I want? Is this full soft?

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

some of us magicians like our tires to occupy the fender area a little bit. You know reduce that gap

Eibach pros are 25 front and rear on stock size tires

Tein S tech are 24.5 and 25 rear which is what I prefer because again IMO the car needs a little rake or handles better with the front being a little lower

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

What really matters is the height and width of the tires

My 275 40 17s are probably close to 26 inches so my track car rides pretty high

The stock tires are narrow and way in with the plus 50 so there is lots of room for them on the top side of the fender

matty

Rich where is your car. I think u have 18s?

matty

fwiw and as a follow up to this thread I have some good news to report.

It's been about one year since my rebuild. After having some doubts about the strength of my build given that I had some warm start issues and a poor idle, I could finally put this doubt to bed. As it turns out the issues I was seeing was the result of a bad map sensor and needing some improvements to the power fc maps.

Yesterday after installing an apexi map sensor we did a compression test. The results were 125 on the front rotor and 119 on the rear. I saw the results. We also turned up the boost. The car is making 400 Rwhp at slightly over 17psi. It made several passes with only slight variation in power of 1-3hp. The torque looked great at 335

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Well that's damn good news Matty

More details on the Map sensor please..... was it an Apexi 3 bar? What was wrong exactly?

matty

Not entirely sure. We replaced the map sensor bc I wanted to run more boost anyways. All of a sudden vacuum read higher. He cleaned up some of the temp correction stuff and idle settings etc.

Ihor actually called this a few posts back. I.e. The problem could have been tune related.

Yes apexi 3 bar.

The real strange thing is that vacuum is higher on boost gauge too which seems unrelated to a map sensor. It is the defi link kit.

I don't know man. I just want to enjoy the car and not sweat over the details. It's a real beaut of a car. The history is now water under the bridge.

There is literally nothing left to replace on the car other than seats. If I was going to go that route I'd be interested all black race seats that don't have writing on them and are plug and play. I don't even know if that exists.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

......there's a set of seats just like that sitting in my garage

you replaced the Apex'i 3 bar with another Apex'i 3 bar?

matty

Replaced stock map sensor with apexi 3 bar map sensor.