ty. Yeah this is a crappy situation. I have some anger but I guess I am a grown man so I have to suck it up.

i am just worried about the car. I dont like my FDs being away from me. And I am worried about the song and dance it always turns into. I fear it. "oh now its this" before you can see the car again.

At this point I have no clue when I will get the car back. I dont know if its next week or next month or a couple months. I really have no clue what to expect. I was hoping some members would chime in how long it took for a turn around on a engine build. I dont even know if we can call it that? They are opening the motor doing a little porting and replacing seals. Its not like a need a new reman and stuff we need to wait on.

 

You should negotiate a delivery date in writing along with the cost. I waited 4 months on mine and it was delivered and picked up as a short block, which was okay with me.

 

it took me 3 weeks total from when I sent my motor to pettit and got it back

 

well just got a little good news...seems like the car could be ready in 1 week. but i think thats slightly optimistic. perhaps two

either way that is palatable.

 

Looks like your exhaust is a St. May Shotgun catback. It looks great and sounds even better.

 

Yeah this car literally has the best parts on it. If this car didn't work out I was going to use his mod list to build whatever I got. I prefer a stock exterior. But this one is so tastefully modded on th exterior that I think it just fits so well for me. I can't wait to actually own the thing.

It also has a smb midpipe which is also a hot item that's craftly made. This one has a highflow cat but from what I can tell that is removable piece. I think that's pretty cool. it's going to be forsale soon. I am putting a straight midpipe in for various reasons. The main reason is that I hate cats and I don't have the replacement piping to run the smb catless. While I can probably find that online somewhere Thats a pain and I don't want to slow down the build process.
Scroll down for a pic of the smb setup. I think it's viewed as one of the better setups out there https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-292/rotary-resurrection-rx7links-dream-fd-build-continues-982170/

Let me know if anyone is interested. It's literallly brand new.


Btw I will post dyno numbers as soon as I could. If any car is going to make power with the bnrs this one should be up there.

 

I've been waiting for over a month of all my parts to come in, hang in there it will well worth it once the car is up and running well.

I might be interested in the SMB mid pipe, send me a PM when you are ready to sell it.

good luck with your build

 

It's got that jet hot coated knightsport double tube downpipe as well. I think it's pretty rare. Pretty bad *** exhaust setup on this mother.

That's what I am saying. I think even after the rebuild I am not destroyed on this car. It would have been nice to not have to deal with this chit but there was definitely some serious money and time invested in accumulating the best parts for over a decade.

 

I hate you.

 

What is Dave's opinion as to what warped the seals?

IMO the street port doesn't need to be bigger for a street car running BNRs. I was personally involved in porting and building this engine and the work done was of top quality. Thinking of anyone taking a die grinder to those irons makes me shake my head.

As Ihor stated that car left IRP with superb compression and boosting as it should sequentially. Not sure what happened in the past year, we had no visibility on the car. The previous owner Mike is a great guy and I wish we had more customers like him. He listened to our recommendations and didn't skimp on the quality/price of parts installed.

Matt, I gave the thumbs up on Mike's car based on all the above info.

Also, aftermarket apex seals like Rotary Aviation or RxParts are absolutely necessary if you're planning to push the envelope power/boost wise. These cars made ~210 rwhp from the factory, anything north of double that and the factory apex seals aren't sufficient---they work great, until they don't. If you back off the power goals, the OEM apex seals are without a doubt the best choice.

I would have loved to see the car that we spent a lot of effort building come back to our shop to be gone through and then tuned for power. That didn't happen unfortunately.

I'm curious Matty, when was the compression checked? Before dynoing or after?

 

Congrats on the clean car....... i dont remeber seeing this car in Va Beach owner must have never brought it out.

 

Hi rich, Not sure if before or after the dyno but I think after. But I drove the car post dyno and it ran the same. Vacuum and the idle scared me the first second I sat in car when I went to buy it in VA. I knew something was up. But at that point I was sold emotionally. It's such a hassle to find a nice fd. This car had everything in it and only 39k. I couldn't replicate it for anything near what I paid. So I said f it.

I am hoping to pic the car up this week. I haven't spoke to dave about why. I will though. In terms of the porting I think he is just making it slightly wider from what it was. One of the things dave said before he opened it was "are you sure its ported " bc to him he didn't hear it in the idle. I thought I heard a slight pulse though. Whatever. Anyways when I drove the car post dyno I was like hmmm this car feels pretty fast. Surprised it's Blown. But I guess the point is it's not really blown it's just on the edge of being blown and riding it hard from there on would likely finish the damage.

I guess my guess on the "why" is that the seals were defective. Here is why. I am great judge of character. There is no way the previous owner on the last step Of a decade long build accumulating rare parts and etc beat on it. No way. Just no way f'ing way. Guy was obsessive. You saw the parts he put on this car. I am sure he felt boost a little though. But that shouldnt warp seals. one other guess is that perhaps the base tune that led to problems. I don't know man. But I am pretty sure the car was that way prior to dyno. It drove and idled same. I am sure it left your shop with great compression. But the fact is it failed prematurely and we will never know why. I have ruled out abuse though in my head. And really my head is all that matters.

I told Ihor i would have taken the car back to you guys for the "final step". But this step was a tune and at that time there wasn't a feasible solution being offered. I wasnt bias to take it to dave even thiugh He has done amazing by me for a long time but my preference was to keep the car with the shop that built it.

Fyi car made 239 on first pass. Clearly down on power. He then showed me how it kept richening up even after he took out fuel.

 

As I recall the OMP is removed?

With all the seals heat damaged/warped my conclusion would be driving it without premix or not enough premix

Or the worst tune on the planet LOL

 

I have an update.

Car is done and returning home on Monday. Dave says he couldn't find anything mechanical as being the factor for the failure. He suspects the car was driven hard on a base tune.

Now for good news. Car made 372 Rwhp at 15psi with over 300tqr. But really the power band looks like a straight line. Pretty sweet. Now I need a map sensor and I can crank the boost.

Once the car is actually here that will signify the end of this soap opera. Looking back. And especially at the title of this thread makes me shake my head. What a turn of events. I sold my cherry *** fd five years ago like a dummy. I come back thrilled as crap. Then it's toast. Just a mockery of bad things. It's water under the bridge now. Hopefully I paid my dues and can enjoy a care free fd for the next 20 yrs.

 

did u keep the twins on there? still pan on running 20 psi? im curious to see what it will make at 20

 

keeping twins. I need to get apexi 3 bar map sensor.

The soap opera isnt over. i am going to go back sooner rather than later. Warm starts are a nightmare for some reason. It came on monday night. It was delivered. Car started cold NP. I go to actually go for a ride and i stalled it as i am not used to the aggressive clutch. Thats how little i have driven this car. I go to restart and it barely restarts. I take it to get gas.. fill her up...go to restart and it barely restarts. I am talking really struggling. It will start coughing coming back to life and i go to gas it to get it going and it stalls. Basically its better if i dont gas it and let it struggle to life. I am guessing its flooding itself some how. Thats my sense but who knows.

Anyone have experience with a horrendous warm start on a new build?

 

right on, im thinking im getting and fd and when i do wanna do the bnr stage 3s at 20 psi

 

i prefer the stockers over the bnrs. If you want to run 400hp and high boost the bnrs will do that and be "sequential" turbos. But if you like 350rwhp and 15bps of boost the twins spool faster and are more fun.

 

wow interesting. when are u seeing full boost now? i wanted to get around 400 or tad bit higher. loved the 420hp in my old fc but the td61 was too laggy for a street setup imho

 

i dont know. i have hardily driven the car. Its not as responsive as the stock sequential setup. I find myself waiting for boost. who knows....this car is a headache right now.its probably not right either. I can simply state that i enjoyed the stockers more right now. I think if you want 400plus go single and do it easily. these are laggy. maybe not as much as a single but if you want instant spool of the stockers these wont do that. 350 rwhp in a fd is a fast daily driveable car. once u go single and start going nuts u are going beyond streetable in my view and simply building a race car or something that fulfills your ego.


Keep it mild. you will enjoy it more. drive it more. and have less stress.

 

If you're having problems hot starting, it's most likely either the tune or a compression issue. It's probably the former.

Also, my brother's SSM FD with an engine IRP built running BNRs boosts very quickly and is better than stock twins in pretty much every way. Get the car running properly and I promise you'll love the powerband

 

Compression issue in a brand new rebuild? Would a car make over 300tq on a blown engine?

And by hot start problems I mean instant problems. If I stall it and go to turn back over its a problem. If I turn off and put gas in it. And try to restart its a problem.

I am not talking 20minute windows.

Would a very aggressive port cause this sort of problem.

 

Low compression
Low oil compression
Faulty fuel pressure solenoid
Leaky injector
Leaking O-ring
Bad ground
Bad CAS
Bad OMP
Bad Tune

...start digging.

 

No on the port question and I don't think a low compression engine will make those #s

I'm thinking leaky injectors or awful tune

 

Yea I hear the bnrs spool quick. Bryan told me gull boost by like 2900 rpms