teenager looking for first car
reliable performance
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
From: MA, USA
Sheesh.
Well, to answer your questions about how an FD is different from (almost) every other car, I'll ask a few. If you can answer these, you're at least mechanically inclined enough to KNOW about an FD.
ENGINE ELECTRICAL:
Do you know what a trailing plug is?
How is the trailing plug different from the lead plug?
What is timing split?
How does an alternating ground control light dim?
Can you swap out ECUs and tune a standalone?
What does MAP stand for, and how is it different from a MAF?
ENGINE OIL, FUEL, AND COOLING:
When should you run 20w50 in a car with a normal operating temperature range of 90-100C?
When should you run 10w30 in the same car?
Can you differentiate between engine oil and coolant in the exhaust? How?
What is an air separator tank?
What is an oil metering pump?
What is a fuel pulsation dampener?
What size injectors does the FD run?
TURBOCHARGER:
What is a true sequential twin turbo system?
What is a boost pattern?
What is a pre-control valve?
What is a charge control valve?
Does the FD need a recirculating blow-off system? Why or why not?
What is the function of the restrictor pill in the vacuum lines underneath the upper intake manifold?
How many throttle bodies does the FD have? Why?
How does replacing the stock pre-cat with an aftermarket downpipe change the boost characteristics, especially in the top end in high gears?
MISC
What is AWS, and what is the controversy behind Mazda's implementation of it?
What lightweight material did Mazda use for many of the critical engine bay components in the FD? Why?
What are reliability mods, what do they cost, and what issues do they resolve?
Where are the door handles on an FD?
What is an Acoustic Wave system, and how does it operate in Touring/PEG FDs?
Those are just a few off the top of my head.
Well, to answer your questions about how an FD is different from (almost) every other car, I'll ask a few. If you can answer these, you're at least mechanically inclined enough to KNOW about an FD.
ENGINE ELECTRICAL:
Do you know what a trailing plug is?
How is the trailing plug different from the lead plug?
What is timing split?
How does an alternating ground control light dim?
Can you swap out ECUs and tune a standalone?
What does MAP stand for, and how is it different from a MAF?
ENGINE OIL, FUEL, AND COOLING:
When should you run 20w50 in a car with a normal operating temperature range of 90-100C?
When should you run 10w30 in the same car?
Can you differentiate between engine oil and coolant in the exhaust? How?
What is an air separator tank?
What is an oil metering pump?
What is a fuel pulsation dampener?
What size injectors does the FD run?
TURBOCHARGER:
What is a true sequential twin turbo system?
What is a boost pattern?
What is a pre-control valve?
What is a charge control valve?
Does the FD need a recirculating blow-off system? Why or why not?
What is the function of the restrictor pill in the vacuum lines underneath the upper intake manifold?
How many throttle bodies does the FD have? Why?
How does replacing the stock pre-cat with an aftermarket downpipe change the boost characteristics, especially in the top end in high gears?
MISC
What is AWS, and what is the controversy behind Mazda's implementation of it?
What lightweight material did Mazda use for many of the critical engine bay components in the FD? Why?
What are reliability mods, what do they cost, and what issues do they resolve?
Where are the door handles on an FD?
What is an Acoustic Wave system, and how does it operate in Touring/PEG FDs?
Those are just a few off the top of my head.
Now we've got another one to add to the list. First we had the surrogate Dads. Then someone else appointed himself the RX-7 Police. Now we've got the schoolmarm who wants you to pass a test before he admits to the exclusive class of owners.
The funny thing is, according to this guy's profile he doesn't even own an FD. He drives a Rustang.
And some of the implied answers to his questions aren't even accurate. Although some owners claim you need it, you won't find 20w50 oil recommended anywhere in the freaking owner's manual.
Lots of self appointed backyard engineers here. Get the car before a fantastic bargain slips through your fingers. You can't go wrong with a $5k runner. You can read the FAQ's in a few hours and you'll learn things as you go along. Few people here were completely expert before they bought their cars.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,807
Likes: 648
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Somehow I don't think the FD's reliability issues revolve around whether you use 10w30 or 20w50...
Way to nit pick. You do definitely need to read up before getting an FD, as there are major reliability issues from the factory that should be corrected. I mean, they work if every thing's in great shape and not modded, but they're barely enough and can eventually lead to serious problems. Like an early blown engine. Just take it from half the people on the forums and a hundred major sources out there.
Way to nit pick. You do definitely need to read up before getting an FD, as there are major reliability issues from the factory that should be corrected. I mean, they work if every thing's in great shape and not modded, but they're barely enough and can eventually lead to serious problems. Like an early blown engine. Just take it from half the people on the forums and a hundred major sources out there.
reliable performance
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
From: MA, USA
Somehow I don't think the FD's reliability issues revolve around whether you use 10w30 or 20w50...
Way to nit pick. You do definitely need to read up before getting an FD, as there are major reliability issues from the factory that should be corrected. I mean, they work if every thing's in great shape and not modded, but they're barely enough and can eventually lead to serious problems. Like an early blown engine. Just take it from half the people on the forums and a hundred major sources out there.
Way to nit pick. You do definitely need to read up before getting an FD, as there are major reliability issues from the factory that should be corrected. I mean, they work if every thing's in great shape and not modded, but they're barely enough and can eventually lead to serious problems. Like an early blown engine. Just take it from half the people on the forums and a hundred major sources out there.
Another "expert" who owns a 2nd Gen. Academic question: if you had the opportunity to buy a running FD for $5,000 would you take it? Would you be tempted?
BTW, have you read through this whole thread. It's a relative who's selling it to him. Do you think this relative is out to screw him? Take advantage of him?
I own a 2nd gen Rx7 and I for one would definitely be all over this deal.
I think the problem with 3rd gen Rx7's and why people are so sour over them is because most 3rd gen owners that complain buy the car knowing nothing about it and get burned huge either playing the replace random parts guessing at whats wrong with the car because they don't know how to trouble shoot it or have not read the owners manual; or they call it a maintenance ***** because they put it off forever and it catches up all at once. Or they take them to shops and have to pay grandiose amounts of cash to get them repaired.
The car can seem overwhelming but along as you keep a cool head read the manuals and use your logic as a mechanic you'll be fine, plus it seems like you enjoy working on cars, so not only will you be saving megabucks on labor but you'll also be doing something you enjoy.
If you pass this car up you'll seriously be kicking your *** over it down the road.
I think the problem with 3rd gen Rx7's and why people are so sour over them is because most 3rd gen owners that complain buy the car knowing nothing about it and get burned huge either playing the replace random parts guessing at whats wrong with the car because they don't know how to trouble shoot it or have not read the owners manual; or they call it a maintenance ***** because they put it off forever and it catches up all at once. Or they take them to shops and have to pay grandiose amounts of cash to get them repaired.
The car can seem overwhelming but along as you keep a cool head read the manuals and use your logic as a mechanic you'll be fine, plus it seems like you enjoy working on cars, so not only will you be saving megabucks on labor but you'll also be doing something you enjoy.
If you pass this car up you'll seriously be kicking your *** over it down the road.
reliable performance
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 383
Likes: 1
From: MA, USA
LOL. I'm having so much fun with this. All the naysayers and Debbie Downers are keeping me in stitches. Run a mean looking FD, a '93 in rough condition with say 120k miles on it through one of the pricing guides. Can you do math? Can you say "bargain?"
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