oh god.
Move on...a rex in India.
I do quite a bit of business in India as well have been there many times over the last 4 yrs..
(Bangalore to Delhi to Tamil Nadu to Mumbai to Karachi)
Putting everything aside.
I've witness the driving 1st hand (won't last long). If your thinking About putting a RX7 on the road there, your really asking for it or your crazy
(oh aren't all us 7 owners all alittle crazy)

 

Honestly a 3rd gen as a first car is not a good idea. However, if you want a fast car that wont kill you physically, and from an insurance standpoint you should look into the Mazdaspeed6. I traded in my Rx-8 for one back in April, and my insurance actually went down. I love my Rx-7s, but as a good daily beater, the Speed6 can't be beat. It's turbo all-wheel-drive, as has a fairly good aftermarket following.

 

what i want to know is, how can a 15 year old kid even consider buying a car for around 10,000 unless hes a spoiled little rich kid..??

 

Someone decided to go for it, and buy an RX7, got it that morning, and later the same day.....

 

lol !

 

rich kids grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

get a civic and put flashy lights on it and uber huge fart can.

but on a real note i think ol' boy is right you really SHOULD NOT get a FD. you really should get an FC and just enjoy it and when you get a more experience driving jump for an FD.

 

On an FD, to put it simply... EVERYTHING. I've owned mine 3 years and driven it as many times. Start out with something a little less maintenance intensive, like an 240SX or a MKIII Supra NA.

 

think u missed the i in indiana, i guess the a at the end too...

 

this thread is like a 16 year old trying to get an R35. dead set on getting one... yet no experience with a high-performance high-maintenace vehicle

 

Look kid get whatever you want.. everyone on here will say you shouldn't but when it all comes down to it, it's your money it's the best car you can find for under 15 grand with your luck you'll probably buy a blown one because of your lack of knowledge on these cars unless you've done your homework. So do it! search links find out what to look for when purchasing an RX-7 this forum specifically is very insightful if you use it properly and talk to the right people. Personally I wouldn't get an FD if I were you just because repairs are costly even though you might have the money for it. It's more of a reliability issue, i'd recommend you getting a 240sx just to learn the in's and out's to driving RWD. Unless you're somewhat intrigued by rotary engines than i would suggest getting an FC. Good luck on your hunt if you're looking for a right hand drive RX7 let me know. The best thing to do before buying any RX-7 is having a second car. Just don't drive like an idiot street racing=gay

 

most have you guys have said look into 240s ive noted i had had a wrecked one, fixed it and sold it

 

Just curious where are you getting a running FD for 5k. I paid 8k for mine, running but it's in shitty shape all around only cause i bought it to rebuild the entire thing with a LS2.

 

ops...my bad...don't I feel like an idiot

 

ok since i have noted everyone in this thread dosent want me to get an rx7 whats another tuner car in the price range?

 

cranksaft and fixed cylinder walls? last engine i built niether of those were in there. lol

 

Sheesh.

Well, to answer your questions about how an FD is different from (almost) every other car, I'll ask a few. If you can answer these, you're at least mechanically inclined enough to KNOW about an FD.

ENGINE ELECTRICAL:
Do you know what a trailing plug is?
How is the trailing plug different from the lead plug?
What is timing split?
How does an alternating ground control light dim?
Can you swap out ECUs and tune a standalone?
What does MAP stand for, and how is it different from a MAF?

ENGINE OIL, FUEL, AND COOLING:
When should you run 20w50 in a car with a normal operating temperature range of 90-100C?
When should you run 10w30 in the same car?
Can you differentiate between engine oil and coolant in the exhaust? How?
What is an air separator tank?
What is an oil metering pump?
What is a fuel pulsation dampener?
What size injectors does the FD run?

TURBOCHARGER:
What is a true sequential twin turbo system?
What is a boost pattern?
What is a pre-control valve?
What is a charge control valve?
Does the FD need a recirculating blow-off system? Why or why not?
What is the function of the restrictor pill in the vacuum lines underneath the upper intake manifold?
How many throttle bodies does the FD have? Why?
How does replacing the stock pre-cat with an aftermarket downpipe change the boost characteristics, especially in the top end in high gears?

MISC
What is AWS, and what is the controversy behind Mazda's implementation of it?
What lightweight material did Mazda use for many of the critical engine bay components in the FD? Why?
What are reliability mods, what do they cost, and what issues do they resolve?
Where are the door handles on an FD?
What is an Acoustic Wave system, and how does it operate in Touring/PEG FDs?

Those are just a few off the top of my head.

 

What exactly do you want to do with the car? AutoX? Drag racing? Just modify it and drive it around the street?

 

ouch.. you old grouch...

 

Ok, so he's not stupid, I will give him that. But a running FD for 5k? Lets examine that for a second: First, we no absolutely nothing about the car, aside from the purchase price. No mods have been listed, and we don't know the mileage, or the maintenance history. So how can you be so sure that he will be good to go? Personally, I think its a mistake to mislead the OP like that.

To the OP: If I were you, I would seriously reconsider buying an FD for a first car, but if you insist on doing it then you need to educate yourself. Before you post again, read through the FAQ section. You will find the answers to 99% of your questions there. If you plan on driving the car daily, then you will need to have some money saved up for repairs and maintenance. 3k is a good place to start, but that will not be enough if you plan on modifying the car. That will require a lot more money if you want to go further than intake/exhaust. The motto "how fast do you want to spend" definitely applies in this case.


Good luck, and don't kill yourself or the FD. These cars are getting rarer everyday.

 

You dont need to know all that ****... now you're just trying to make yourself feel special because you might know that answer to your own questions.


That said, an FD is still a terrible choice for a first car. It's a terrible car everyone unless they have another car to drive. FD = 2nd+ car.

 

India?! Who said anything about India? This prospective owner is in Indiana. It's a state. Home of David Letterman, John Mellancamp, and that guy who makes the popcorn. You've been on the receiving end of some crappy customer service line once too often. "Hello, this is Punjab. May I help you?"

 

You guys gotta start reading through the thread before you start dissing the guy.
He's getting a running FD for $5k, and he works for his money.

 

Don't let 'em push you around. Tell 'em what you told me. You're going to be getting a great car at a bargain price. Screw 'em if they can't accept it. You don't need their approval.

 

Visiting the 3G section just b/c I saw this topic. 2G drivers I've seen tend to drive normal and are cheap. 1G drivers seem to all be middle-aged with kids, etc. There are some 3G adults as well. Then I talk to the 3G/Supra/Evo teens/young adults. They drive crazy and run into Hollywood-type issues often involving their car (damaged, parents were once rich but now he can't afford anymore, etc.).


Okay, so you have mechanical experience and want a fast first car. So you probably want a used car because it's a better deal and you know how to take care of problems:
1. Increase the price of any car you see by ~50% to account for future expenses. Even if it's brand new you still need to bump it up a little. If it's older or if it's a 3rd gen RX-7 you may spend more.

2. Since it's your first car and you seem to have some cash I'd go for a TII (2nd gen RX-7 turbo) or another 80's turbo car. They're still pretty fast, they're cheaper than a 3G/Evo/Supra IV, and they are plenty manageable for someone with mechanical experience like you.

3. Get a buyer's guide or 2 and take a good look at the car. You might also want to have a mechanic look at it. Condition can vary greatly. You can get the average selling price (blue book value) at www.kbb.com.

4. Do all the scheduled maintenance items and of course do them again later according to the schedule. Learn about common problems with the car. For the 2nd gen RX-7, for example, they include the thermostat (replace with OEM), the fuel pulsation dampener (replace if leaking or over 100k miles old), DTSS (replace with eliminator bushings if it's bad). On any turbo car, but especially a rotary, tune rich and upgrade the fuel system when upgrading the power to avoid detonation. Rotaries are also sensitive to overheating. So carefully maintain the turbo and cooling systems.


If you do get a 3rd gen, in addition to the above: get multiple buyer's guides and be extra careful when purchasing, also have a rotary specialist check it out before buying, replace the vacuum lines with silicone, upgrade the radiator, deal with the heat from the pre-cat (remove?), get another water temp gauge, retune it to run richer (especially if you upgrade the power), get a good knock sensor. And read up on other reliability mods b/c I wouldn't be surprised if I missed some things.

EDIT: Just read DarkLikePoe's post and I'd say, yes, you do need to know at least 80% of those things. The "do you know what X is" borders on trivia (until you make serious upgrades, I mean), but the "should you's" are essential. Heck, I'm a 2G driver who used to read a little on the 3G while studying deep into the 2G. Those are just the basic essentials to keep you from spending a fortune on repairs. It's not DarkLikePoe showing off what he knows.

 

First car forum