Yeah i know how to adjust it, how to measure voltage etc etc but i have a different question no one asked before.

Before you measure volts at the TPS, you run the car to operating temp right? Then you pull the harness plug and measure the connector pins for volts. We all know that.

MY question is, can i remove the TB right after i warm the car up so i can have an easier access in adjust the TPS while its sitting on my lap? Im trying to think of how it wont work. I mean when its installed in the car, the harness is pulled anyway so basically no power is going through it. Can i maybe use a heat gun on it to keep it hot enough for me to adjust it??

This all came to me cause the 2 adjusting screws are flat head screws which are IMPOSSIBLE for me with my tools to get to. I had a flexible head screwdriver and that still didnt fit.

Thanks in advance

 

I think you are confused,
you need to have the harness connected and ign switch on to get any type of voltage reading. You could always change the screws to allen head screws to make it easier to adjust.

 

Yeah now im confused

How was i getting any readings with the harness off then??

Idk, now i dont know what to do.

Well either way, i guess ill have to undo the TB and let it hang awkward enough for me to get to the TPS screws so i can adjust it.

And i would love to change the flat to allen screw type except i cant get to the flat screws in the beginning anyway unless i take the whole TB off.

 

Are you sure you weren't measuring resistance?

 

Yeah thats what I think you should do, take the whole thing off and replace the screws then you can adjust it easily all the other times you gonna have to play with it to dial it in.

 

You dont need to warm up the car to test the tps,its the same regardless of temp.To test the ouput from the sensor you have to have it connected,the voltage you read when its disconnected is the supply voltage.

 

I believe the reason the car has to be warm is to make sure the AWS is not activated.

 

Ok thanks guys, now i know what to do. It sounds easier knowing i can just undo the TB and adjust it at a comfort level and i dont have to warm up the car etc etc.

I feel like an idiot cause i had the car for so long and it was problem free. The more i modded it, it would act funnier and funnier.

When i first got the car, car was problem free for 5 straight months til i started doing stuff to it. Now its finally the time where little things are breaking and its my first time encountering all of it.

But thanks guys.

 

The car must be at operating temp to properly adjust the tps, If the engine is cold the wax rod will keep the fast idle cam ingaged giving you false readings. There is no reason to remove the tb, even if you do remove it, the wiring harness is not long enough to move it to your lap..

 

Yeah i knew that was the reason why you had to warm the car up.

I dont really mean adjust it on my lap cause i found out you had to adjjust it with the harness connected (stupid me lol) but really i wanted to adjust the TB itself to where i have access to the screws to adjust. I honestly and literally CANT access them while the TB is on. Even if i remove the intake elbow and the map sensor, i cant. And the thing having flathead screws doesnt help either. Ill see what i encounter with the next nice day i attack it.

Will keep you updated.

thanks again

 

I did the TB coolant mod, does that matter?

Or should i still warm up the car?

 

If the fast idle cam as been disabled, then no...........

 

ok get a 1/4 inch box wrench
get a phillips head screwdiver inset (the kind that come with the little screwdriver sets that have a bunch of different sizes)
tape the screwdiver end into the boxed side of the wrench and you have a custom tool

i like to get the readings from the ecu terminals and just back probe the connector

 

So much misinformation from newbs.

Only Gadd got it correct, but you do not have to warm up the car which makes it very hot when trying to adjust the TPS, even if the correct fasteners are installed.

Insert a spacer between the hot was rod and the adjusting screw so that it disengages the fast idle cam. If you have a PFC, the voltages can be read from the commander.

Go to http://www.fd3s.net/ and read my old write-up that tells how to do it with a digital volt meter. That was before the PFC was available.