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I encounter a problem with my Tach, it occurs sometimes right after I start the car, or after driving it for a couple minutes. When it occurs, it's actually working 'almost' normally, except that it is inaccurate, the needle pointing to a little higher rpm (like +1000rpm or so / e.g : needle pointing on 4k rpm when I'm actually at 3k rpm).
I've found many thread about the tachometer/speedo gauge fix, so I wanted to give a try to fix it.
I expected to find some leaky capacitors, but they seem pretty clean. What do you think ?
I've read in this thread that the gauge is powered via the 3 screws in the back of the gauge. I will clean those screws, and hopefully it will work better.
Following. My tach also floats and from what I’ve been told, I’m better off getting a speedhut gauge vs trying to fix it. If you find a fix, I’d love to know. I know mines off because my Apexi FC shows the RPMs.
I've cleaned the screws and the small washers, and the soft circuit board with contact spray...
I should remount it in the next couple days/weeks, so I'll let you know if the problem still occurs.
So, I test drived it but it still the same.
The more I look into it, the more I'm thinking it happens when I start the car, then after 20min or so, it gets back to normal... But I'm not sure it's always the case, it's actually pretty hard to monitor while driving ^^
Ricebox : thanks for the tip, I'll try this next time !
So, I test drived it but it still the same.
The more I look into it, the more I'm thinking it happens when I start the car, then after 20min or so, it gets back to normal... But I'm not sure it's always the case, it's actually pretty hard to monitor while driving ^^
Ricebox : thanks for the tip, I'll try this next time !
mine does the same, its a very common problem. i havent taken it apart to re solder the chip on the tacho board but i'll be doing it soon.
thanks a lot for this topic ! Let us know if it works for you.
My problem is not very similar to the jumpy/crazy tachs I've seen on videos, mine looks steady all the time, it is just not accurate all the time... I only saw it "jump" once in months of use. Anyway, I'll try the resolder fix as well when I get some time.
By the way, anyone knows if the redline/gear change beep is still working normally when the tachometer is out of service like this ?
Last edited by tomatoto; Jan 10, 2019 at 05:21 AM.
As Ricebox pointed out, there is a lot of good information in the link he provided. Page 5 of that thread discusses another member's repair to the IC chip on the tach board. Be sure to read through that section because damage to the chip and circuit board could easily happen. Please do not bypass any wiring from the instrument cluster to the tachometer from the link you provided in your 1st post. Do you have any electrical soldering skills?
Alternatively, you may post your repair journey to that thread. Meanwhile, would you please post a few photos that clearly show the solder joints of IC1 and capacitor C1?
Thanks for your help. I've remounted the cluster by now, but as soon as I find some time, I'll unmount it again and check closer to the IC chip and solder joints.
About the "gear change buzzer", I meant the one we hear in this video near 7400rpm :
Thank you, glad to be of help. The buzzer in that video clip is known as the over-rev warning alarm. I suspect the over-rev buzzer will sound (without a tach) because it is an output from the (factory) ECU that is sent to the Body CPU.
