3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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synthetic oil or not?????

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Old Jul 28, 2002 | 09:48 AM
  #3  
JONSKI's Avatar
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From: Marco Island, FL
I use Mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic.
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Old Jul 28, 2002 | 09:35 PM
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RE Amemiya uses Redline in their race RX-7. That's good enough proof to use synthetics for me.
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Old Jul 28, 2002 | 10:32 PM
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gmonsen had a great thread about this..do a search.. it was enough to make me use synthetic.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 01:27 AM
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From: Shaw AFB, SC finally close to home!!! yeah!
Same here! Synthetic is the way to go, I'll never use Non synthetic again.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 09:38 AM
  #7  
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I heard not to use synthetics because rotaries are oil injected and synthetics don't fully combust.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 09:52 AM
  #8  
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From: Scott AFB, IL
Originally posted by 95R2-89TII Ground Zero
I heard not to use synthetics because rotaries are oil injected and synthetics don't fully combust.
That was the case with earlier generation synths... But they are plenty safe these days...
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 11:31 AM
  #9  
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Oji San
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Wow I think it has been three whole days.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 12:21 PM
  #10  
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Mobil 1 15w-50.......2 weeks later.......runnin' smoooooooooooooooooooooth!
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 01:37 PM
  #11  
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The argument goes both ways. If your rotary has been running smooth with mineral-based oil, then there isn't a real, outstanding point for you to change to synthetics. However, turbos have generally shown good response to synthetic oils.

I've used Redline and Mobil 1 with good results. The Mobil 1 synthetic seems to be less viscous, and my oil pressure was always low (around 15). I switched back to Redline and the oil pressure is almost always at 30; except when the engine is really warm (then if falls to around 15). Maybe coincidence ... I dunno, but I'm happier with the Redline performance. It's worth the extra $3 a quart, IMO.

MaxCooper has had good results with the Royal Purple as well.

In Texas, I run well with 10W-30; or 30WT (Redline) ... they're pretty much the same thing. For colder climates, I would think you would want to run like a 20W-50.

Last edited by redrotorR1; Jul 29, 2002 at 01:39 PM.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 01:43 PM
  #12  
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i'm a bit confused, don't you run heavier weight oil say 20W50 when in hot temps? and lower weight oil say 10W30 for colder temps?

Danny
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 02:59 PM
  #13  
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Originally posted by redrotorR1
In Texas, I run well with 10W-30; or 30WT (Redline) ... they're pretty much the same thing. For colder climates, I would think you would want to run like a 20W-50.
20W50 should be use in Hotter climate, Not cooler climates.

You have it the other way around.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 03:05 PM
  #14  
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From: SoCal
I'm assuming that using synthetic during the BREAK-IN period is NOT recommended then? That it is the only time to use regular oil?
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 03:09 PM
  #15  
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From: Austin, TX
Originally posted by RX7Elmo
i'm a bit confused, don't you run heavier weight oil say 20W50 when in hot temps? and lower weight oil say 10W30 for colder temps?

Danny
The lower weight typically does correlate to warmer temperatures. Depends on how you want to do it; you can go lower weight and higher viscosity for colder weather, or vice versa. Now with synthetics, you don't have to follow the same rules. I'm following what I've read on this forum and what the local rotary experts have recommended.
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Old Jul 29, 2002 | 03:46 PM
  #16  
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From: SoCal
Thanks Gordon.

That was the only question I had following the regular vs. synthetic oil debate.
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