tbonerx7

I put new brake rotors on and when I took it for a test drive it makes a clicking noise. Only on harder (lock) turns does it make a clicking noise in the front suspension area, like a bad CV boot. It is speed sensitive so if I'm slow, the clicking's slow. It's also side dependant--left turn, clicks from the left.

I sprayed WD-40 on the upper A-arms to see if that will temporary stock it, no luck. There was no clicking sound before I installed the rotors (stock size).

I removed the inner wheel well (plastic) so I know it's not just rubbing (no marks).

Ball joint is okay. Tire rod joint has no play, but the boot has been ripped.

Could get the jack to the jacking point after I lowered it?!! Why?

Do I have bad motor mounts? Bad springs (stock R1).

I think it's weird it was fine until I jacked up the car and installed the rotors. I also cleaned out the ABS sensor and the ring of teeth it senses.

The brake pad springs (retainer) are not loose.

What could it be?

spurvo

No idea on the clicking noise, but you may want to rethink the fender liner pull. Those liners actually pull air through the oil coolers out the nacelles behind the front wheels. You diminish the effect of your oil coolers if you remove them.

The suspension stays high after lowering it off the jack as the wheels are still in their full rebound cambered position when you put it back down. Should lower if you move the car and turn the wheel.

Sorry I couldn't help more!

reza

I think the caliper bolt is different top to bottom.
check it out, one is longer than the other...
you may have accidently swapped them, check your rotor inside and outside surface for marks...

reza

I think the caliper bolt is different top to bottom.
check it out, one is longer than the other...
you may have accidently swapped them, check your rotor inside and outside surface for marks...

tbonerx7

Thanks for the replies. I'll have to check on the caliper bolt. Wouldn't the caliper turn with the rotor, though? It only clicks when I am at lock turning.

I only too the one wheel well lining out (pass side) w/o the oil cooler to see if the rubbing/clicking sound would go away. I defiantly will put it back considering the electronics that are now exposed.

Thanks

reza

no..caliper stays...how its gonna brake if it turns as well. it works by stopping the rotors from turning, thus the caliper is bolted to the arms, but one bolt is longer than the other.
Do a search, there was someone having the same experience about a year ago...

spurvo

Well, you said stock R-1, which has two coolers. All confuse now... doesn't matter, you're putting it back.

So now I just go along my happy post whoring way...

tbonerx7

Hopefully, I'll get a chance to check out the bolts tonight. I'm sure they're okay, I lay everything out unless they were installed backwards.

The wheel well liner is going back in. The noise does sound plastic rubbing in nature? Driving to work today, it sounded like I scraped against the ground going up a hill at 40 mph. It was a steep incline, but this usually never happens. It happened again but during a banked turn.

Maybe it's the springs?

The previous owner thought the R1 springs were significantly stiffer than the stock springs. But considering the age of the springs, it probably would be better going with aftermarket. I have a base model.

I did a search and that lasted a few days trying to find reasons why it was making this sound. I found some, but none of their problems were mine.

TP

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Make sure your lug nuts are tight

tbonerx7

I'll double check the lug nuts. I always torque them down. The noise of a loose wheel sounds different from what I'm experiencing, but who knows, I've seen weirder things.