Hi All,

I picked up a used Supra Pump a few days back for a great price. Don't really need it yet but couldn't pass up a deal.

Anyway, I dropped it in today and replaced the 20 year old fuel feed and return lines for good measure.

Definitely a quick and easy install.

So, the question:

See the tan ring around the fuel feed (output)? Is it supposed to click in place? I was able to push it up to the rubber grommet on the fuel pump / level sender assembly but it just falls back and sit's loosely against the top of the pump.

The pump felt like it made a solid seal when I installed it. It works great and the car runs fine. It just seems weird that this tan piece didn't click into place.

thanks!

James

 

that tan collar just keeps the o-ring in place from not sliding up

 

O-ring, then a pintel cap on top

 

be careful with used fuel pumps.. i know its probably rarely the case, but when i went to get tuned, my used pump started failing, Luckily A/Fs were being monitored and it happened when it was getting tuned or else id be needing a new motor. This also happened to i believe 2 others that same tuning day (really weird)

 

Thanks guys.

I hear you FD3S2005. I made a few WOT runs and haven't seen any AFR problems. So far so good. I'm only just touching 10PSI though and still running 550/850 primary / secondary. Basically I'm just taking my time learning how to tune.

I'll probably be tuning at this boost level for the next few weeks. I'm not in a hurry. There should be plenty of time for the pump to show problems if it has them.

Call me crazy but it's been fun. Cat back, DP and intake. I think that I'm starting to get the hang of the PFC / datalogit combination.

 

well it was fine for a year or 2 before it went out..

 

Don't know what your power goals are with the car but I've found that the stock wiring cannot fully support the maximum flow of this pump. The Supra pump is a great pump but draws a fair amount of amps. Re-wiring the pump directly to the battery with 10awg wire and using the existing wiring to switch on a relay will allow you to get the most out of this pump. You should be fine with the twins but if you ever decide to go single down the road it's something you should keep in mind.

 

There was a thread about this. The Supra pumps need upgraded wiring at the very least.

 

i believe the 2 that failed(me included ) out of 3 had them rewired. but hey it could happen to any unit really. a new one could fail.. some were just lucky it happens when not at WOT

 

same happened to me with a brand new Denso supra TT pump, we left it on the dyno shop counter as we forgot about it when we left. owner of the car said "you should go back and get it", i said "let the honda kids install it and blow up a motor with it, it's junk".

that experience has really put me off on Denso pumps now.

 

Right now I'm looking to create a good homemade tune at 10PSI with stock twins in sequential mode, DP, intake and CB. I'm nearly there.

After this I'm going to target 12PSI on the same setup. 1300 secondaries if needed.

I'll add H2O injection ... without tuning for it and just enjoy the car.

When the engine goes (it's a stock 20 year old engine) I'll add BNR's to the mix. I'll probably push these to around 15 PSI ... maybe a bit more ...

It's more about the journey for me right now that the destination. I'm enjoying learning how to tune, build and repair this car. I have a set of stock 850cc secondaries just waiting for RC Engineering (or someone) to turn them into 1300s. I'll do this before the BNCs if my 20 year old coolant seals hold out long enough.

 

your going to need more fuel if you want to push more than 15 psi on seq.. like me, im at 89% , wish i had enough to push it to 20psi with my bnr.. im ready to go single now tho, i just want a nice open waste gate and less clutter.. been about 6 or maybe 7 years now, owning twins and iv had my fun.

 

The one thing that is guaranteed is that you will get ALL sorts of different experiences, comments and issues with any and ALL parts from the after market.

As for My personal experience... and I can only speak of MY personal experience with this pump and it has been GREAT. I went single over a year and a half ago and have run a best time of 11.87@117mph using the "Supra" pump. I have run as high as 18 psi, dynoed 370HP and have had NO issues. I DID NOT rewire anything, just install and go

AGAIN... this is MY PERSONAL experience with a BRAND NEW pump I purchased... Do your RESEARCH...

BTW....Here is a good website with pump comparisons.. and FYI... this pump is good up to 575HP... Don't know why some say it won't flow enough for twins on 15 psi..

http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...on-test-5.html


GOOD luck with your project..

 

keep in mind i was pushing that supraTT pump to it's limits, it started crapping out as soon as the car hit 490ish whp, after that it kept gradually getting worse and worse even when i kept turning the voltage up via the boost a pump.

 

There is no recess on top of the supra pump to properly receive the Tan retainer. I noticed this as well and solved the problem by reducing the OD of the flange near the bottom of the tan piece. See pics for depiction and correct dimension. I don't know how critical this is, but it only took a minute to make it fit properly and so I did.

I know this has been beat to death in many posts--but when I checked (and rechecked)--the wiring from the FP relay back to the pump, its connector and its ground return are quite adequate if in good condition--the resistance for the whole circuit as a loop, from the FP circuit-opening relay to ground was less than 0.1 ohm, which is more than adequate (wiring only--pump jumpered out).

Most of the voltage drop is found in the ignition circuit feeding the FP circuit-opening relay. There is an easy work-around for this that requires minor rewiring of the fuse/relay which creates a new feed for the FP from the main 12V buss (through a new fuse, of course). There are several threads in which this mod is depicted. Other than verifying the condition of the connector at the tank, this is all I would do to the wiring for most installs.

I question the wisdom of removing the FP "boost" relay and its associated resistor as I think running the pump on full voltage all of the time is ridiculous unless it's a dedicated race car. I know it's easy; however, it creates more heat at the pump and most certainly reduces the life of the pump. It is not likely that the stock/oe/oem type pumps were specified or designed to run at full voltage on a continuous basis. This might help explain some of the reliability issues some have experienced.

 

Thanks Speed of Light ...

Lot's of good info in this thread but you actually answered the question. I'll have to take a look at my OEM pump after work tonight. I'm curious if the OD of the tan piece's flange matches the end result of your work.

 

the relays and stepped system are bypassed with reliability in mind. note it's generally only recommended with an EMS installation and with cars pushing 300whp and well over that where voltage inconsistency can cost you $3k+. any additional heat generated by a 2 volt bump in voltage would be minimal to operating speeds of the pump, beyond 14 volts i might be more agreeable.

i generally equate our bad supra pump experience to it being overdriven to 17-18volts with the boost a pump and it not liking it to the point that it started to burn up, but the pump should be able to handle it and points to rather stringent initial quality. the walbro 400 took the abuse just fine and many people call those "cheap", "junk" and "garbage". i have never actually seen a walbro fail, in fact the original 255 in that same car seeing the same voltage bump with the boost a pump is still working just fine today in a different car and has about 4 years of service and 35k miles on it at ~450whp level(basically pushing maximum efficiency near it's whole life).

 

i think this bad rep walboro suddenly got, coincides well with a sudden flood of "supercheap walboros for sale" on Ebay etc



in short, people bought cheap chinese knockoffs and got screwed...

 

I've run and seen Supra FP replacements for years without any failures. They are fine and we have run 360-400 rwhp on the stock set up , meaning no relay or voltage step ups. We of course run bigger secondary injectors.

 

Is this the twin turbo pump? My looks different than what's shown in for pic.

 

Is urs a twin turbo pump?

 

I'm assuming that there is one pump for the normal aspirated supra and one for the turbo? I didn't use this criteria to choose the pump. I used the part number that I found by searching this forum. ... see the bottom of my pic above.

 

I took a few pictures of a supra TT pump I bought from a forum member with the sock already attached. It looks different from the picture you took because mine does not have the part number on it and there is not a "brown collar" you were talking about.

Any thoughts?

 

Interesting ... maybe it's an after market replacement for the Supra pump and not made by Denso.

 

Anyone else know what pump I have here? Thanks