20B 3 Rotor

iTrader: (7)

Hey, I'm sure this has been asked, but when I searched I couldn't find anything. Anyways, I'm going the route of BNR stage 3 turbo's, since mine just went, and I am on a tight budget. Im not looking for number's, I just want to get it operating, and then once I get more money go from there. As far as I know you can run them around 300 hp without having to touch the stock computer or fuel system, as well as the stock intercooler and rad, but I could be wrong so I was wondering if there is anything other then a upgraded exhaust, and intake, that I would have to buy. I was also wondering what kind of intake I would be able to buy without going custom, what stock parts would have to be removed in order to fit the BNR's (i.e. air pump), also what headers I would need to buy, ohh yeah and with the intake where would I mount the new BOV. Thanks alot for all your help.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

trying to do anything on the cheap with these cars often results in blown motors

t-von

iTrader: (8)

That's not really true. Ignorance and a lack of knowledge is the #1 cause.

zack4173

iTrader: (3)

I would just keep the BNR's at stock boost until you have aftermarket intercooler, radiator, and engine management and then raise the boost. from what I have heard the you can go 300WHP with a stock ECU and fuel but I think thats pushin it.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

It is true. He said that it often results in a blown motor, not that it was the #1 cause of blown motors.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

It's been proven that you can do a number of bolt ons with the stock computer IF you can keep the boost at 10psi. Things will be different for you since you will be using upgraded twins. Those turbos are designed to flow more air so any mod you do will push the envelope a lot sooner. You must be very very carefull. With these twins, whatever you do don't run without the stock cat. The stock cat will help you maintain the stock 10psi boost. Also make sure you get a wideband to keep tabs on the A/F ratio.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I know what your saying but I had to diffuse the statement about the being cheap part. Being cheap isn't what blows engines, it's a lack of knowledge and understanding of what your doing and understanding the limitations for your set-up. How much one spends doesn't dictate how reliable a set-up can be. That's my whole point. Adam C's stock air box mod is a perfect example.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

LOL. I agree.



As far as I've seen, the BNR turbos run sequentially just bolt on and come with a modified Y pipe. You can run them on the stock ECU, stock everything with no other mods if you like. Add mods as funds and time allow. A friend of mine is running the BNR twins sequentially on his his Fd right now using the stock ECU and its running great.

20B 3 Rotor

iTrader: (7)

yeah, 300 was just a guess, basically I dont want to cheap out on my car or push it too hard without having everything upgraded so I won't go toast the engine. I will be buying quality parts, it's just that it's been off the road for a month or so, I bought it a couple weeks before and I just want to drive it again because I see all these nice cars while I'm in a 95 protege that is loud as hell since the exhaust exits out of the headers (no cats or muffler). Anyways, back on topic, should I be upgrading the exhaust with a downpipe, free flow aftermarket cat, and catback or would that push the car too hard because on one hand I feel that stock is too restrictive but on the other hand like you guys said it might be too much for the car without anything else. Also, I would probably have to put on intake, since stock probably wouldnt fit, so would that be too much for the car with a aftermarket intake as well?. Looking at these two problems as well as the other questions its looking more and more like I should just get everything done, but the money I will be getting will decide that for me I guess.

AHarada

iTrader: (25)

The only way to know exactly how much is safe would be to monitor AFR with a wideband, knock, injector duty cycles, temps, egts, etc. IMO you'd be better off getting a low mileage set of stock twins for cheap and start on those.

20B 3 Rotor

iTrader: (7)

that was my plan, and I would have rather done that but I have just been having a hard time finding them, I knew of a place but they sell for 800, so i thought, well, for around 1500 more I could go for a better set, that hasnt been used, but I dont know, right now I'm just figuring out what I'm getting into.

20B 3 Rotor

iTrader: (7)

I've been looking around at inercoolers and I have found either the pfsupercars race smic, or the petit coolcharge 3 smic, and I was wondering if those would be adequate for the bnr's, would the battery have to be relocated or the a/c removed, and I'm still stumped on what kind of intake I should be using

AHarada

iTrader: (25)

Check out the classifieds. Used decent condition twins normally go in the 200-400 range depending on mileage etc.

Either IC should be good. I'm not sure if the coolcharge 3 is different from the 2, but according to the picture on their website, it will work with stock battery and intake.

http://www.pettitracing.com/rx7/index.htm

Seems like the PFS RACE IC will not work with stock intake nor battery, but the medium one will work with stock battery only.

I don't see why any SMIC will affect AC.

Try searching the forum, there's tons of info covering all of this.