ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

Looking for some pointers here from those who've done it before. I'm trying to re-install my twins. My problem is I cannot get the gasket for the return line for the front turbo to stay in place. How does everyone else keep the gasket in place while putting the twins back on?
Thank you

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

Glue it on to the flange.


I am really partial to this stuff. http://www.permatex.com/products/aut..._Sealant_a.htm

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Install the gasket after the turbos are sitting on the manifold, no reason to have the front return line gasket in place prior, it has a flex bellows.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

awesome, I'll give that a try.

That's what I was trying yesterday, my hand/tools can't seem to fit in that tight space. I probably wasted 2 hours trying it that way (going from above &below) and got so frustrated I quit for the day.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

On a lift it is much easier, we remove and install turbos all the time.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

I wish I had a lift. I'm trying to convince my wife to let me buy one, but it's not working.

Your shop is a long tow from where I'm at to have you do it.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you don't get it by this weekend, give me a ring.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I think I put the studs into the block with the gaskets on the studs, then put the turbos on being careful to guide the oil lines onto the studs, then you just have to simply put on the 10mm nuts to bolt down those oil lines

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

Mine were installed with bolts going into the block. If I can't get the glue to work, do you know the stud info?

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ Trust me, it will work

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Just take your bolts to a good hardware store and get matching metric studs

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Front return line does not have studs to the block. There are studs on the front cover for the extension tube which should already be installed. The drain tube bolts to the extension tube.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

Ya I put studs in that extension tube so the drain tube would go onto those studs.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

I'm still trying to find some locally. My first two stops (autozone & advance auto parts) didn't carry it. I hate paying $10 shipping for something that costs $4.
I'm pretty sure they are M6 threads. A couple months ago when I started this project I bought a ton of new stainless nuts/bolts so I didn't have to reuse any old ones. I bought one of those plastic bins to separate out all the different sizes/lengths. I just wondered if you knew the overall length and thread lengths of the studs you used.
I meant what Tom said

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Why not just take some M6 bolts and thread them through the backside?

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I don't know exactly, they were probably about 1.25", I would have to dig through a box of stock turbo parts, its okay if they are a little long probably.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

Got some at O'Reilly's during my lunch break. Hopefully the wife will let me have some free time this evening.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ As it says in the directions apply to both surfaces and let it tack up for a few minutes before you mate the gasket to the flange. You do not need a lot, the excess will seep out so make sure that it is not an excessive amount.



I used this stuff combined with an oil pan gasket to seal up my leaks and so far (2300 miles)my garage floor is dry. I use it all the time to prevent leaks. It is also good to use if you do not have a gasket and the two mating surfaces are machined flat.


What I really like about this stuff is that it never completely dries up so the joint is flexible which is great for the seal between the oil pan and the block.

FutileLover

iTrader: (1)

i used the permatex brown gu, its like a dark brown? love that stuff.
thanks for reminding me to use a lift and replace the hardware, im replacing my stock twins as well

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

Got everything installed today. I just need to torque it all to spec now. I'll probably have time tomorrow to finish it up. Hopefully will be able to drive it again in a few days.

Thanks for all the tips, everything went in without a hitch today.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

Good to hear. How did the rest of the install go?

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

I've ran into 2 snags, the first of which is not really a big deal, I just haven't had time this week to work on it.

1) When I was putting on the nuts for my downpipe I found that one of the studs' threads were broken so I need to replace it. I've already got the replacement, I just need to pull the old one and install the new.

2) (the bigger complaint) I tried to get my pettit coolcharge II installed but the hoses do not line up with the stock pipes. I've e-mailed & called pettit but no reply yet on how to resolve. I am more upset at this situation because I bought this intercooler almost a year ago now and still have not used it yet. When I first got it, I could not get it to fit in the engine bay because the stock battery tray was in the way. I also did not have an intake other than the stock intake so that would have been in the way as well (although I removed it when trying to install the intercooler). So I waited and waited until a turbojeff battery tray was available but luckily he did another batch so I bought one of those, a 51R battery, and an intake just so I could use this new intercooler. Well now that I have all those other items in place I still can't use the intercooler.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ Could you post pics of the problem?

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Looks like part of the problem is that your turbo compressor housings are chalked too far to the passenger side. The piping is too close to the coolant filler neck.