1320VR4

Alright I'm having a bit of a rough time, the worst thing with cars is when something is broken, but not enough to be clear, when it works, but not really lol.

So I have a 93 FD, 13B Street Port, Single Turbo, HKS Twin fire, FFE fuel kit, PFC, etc. I had it professionally tuned at a specialty rotary shop last July. Put about 1000 miles on it, garaged it for winter, and then took it out two months ago. Initially it was perfectly fine and a joy to drive.

I stopped at a quick check (gas station) about a month ago, went home and parked it for the night, next day I took a trip to get beer (nothing else to do on quarantine) and noticed the car would break up on full boost. Gauge was pinned rich so I figured, must be spark blow out or something stupid. Threw some new plugs in for the hell of it since I had an extra set, no change.

I also checked my meth injection to make sure it wasn't clogged from sitting all winter and it purged just fine and seems to be operating properly

Since at this point it was just a break up issue, I noticed the hand held on my PFC was showing 12.4v at idle, so I thought hey alternator might be weak, so I went ahead and bought an IR Performance 140A alternator, I honestly didn't really think this would solve the issue but I like forced upgrades (lol) Now shows 13.5-13.9 at idle, so it's definitely a better unit than I had, but anyway.

I also noticed for some odd reason the FPR was reading a little bit low at idle so I upped the fuel pressure back to 42psi at idle, seems to be working fine, I have no fuel in the vacuum line to the FPR so it must be alright, as i've been tinkering on the car it has been still set properly and pressure increases with rpm / boost, I'm just chalking it up to a fluke. I did also notice that when I shut the car off the pressure drops within say 10 seconds or so, I'm being told this is normal for these cars but I'm used to pressure being held for a long time after shut off with my other toys. Just to check, I removed the rails and injectors to see if they were leaking. Initially the car would start fine cold but then also started having a harder time starting hot which lead me to believe they may have been leaking down into the engine but no dice.

So I'm ruling out an odd fuel issue I think, perhaps I'm having an unreliable spark issue. The HKS Twin Fire I put in the car last year was brand new in box and I'm using OEM coil packs and new NGK wires. I'm thinking perhaps since I have a vented hood and the car sits outside at my home (garage I rent and store it in in the winter is 20 minutes from me) perhaps water has buggered up my coils or something related.


So either I'm completely on the wrong track or maybe I'm not. Has anyone else had some sort of similar issue and give me a probability list of **** to check? I'm feeling a little bit stumped. I'm hoping you guys will have a thought or two, even if I'm having a brain block and one of you can yell at me and call me an idiot or something, lol.


Matt

Bimmer_Tyler

iTrader: (1)

Im in no way a pro but you could maybe have a leaking injector? Maybe atomizing poorly on top of dripping, might explain the super rich but not the fact it holds pressure-ish. Not sure man, following for curiosity

1320VR4

Atomization possibly, but they're not leaking, I removed the rails and injectors to see if they would leak at all under pressure and no beans.


Tomorrow I'm going to check the TPS, symptoms list seems like it could be it

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I'm wondering if you just have a bad tank of gas or a plugged fuel filter.

Dale

1320VR4

I was considering that, because this all happened after my last fill up, everything was perfect before hand but even if like they put regular in the wrong tank at the station or whatever ,it should at least still start I would think. I figured Id replace the filter anyway too just because why not, can't hurt