R.P.M.

iTrader: (3)

Alright, this one has me stumped.

I just did an emission delete and parallel'ed (sp?) the stock twins.

The car runs great, it idles perfect at 900rpm, the TPS is good and in spec. I can rev it up to 6000-7000rpm in neutral by just slightly pressing on the throttle and it drives around fine in vacume. Once the boost gauge hits 0psi the car falls right on its face, like everything shuts off. Sometimes it backfires through the intake, bucking and stuttering like crazy.

Never seen anything like it before.

Any thoughts?

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Check the turbo / boost troubleshooting thread linked in the FAQ thread. I believe there is a similar scenario described there.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Stock ECU or aftermarket?

gusfd3s

did you do anything else to the car? do you have an a/f meter installed in the car?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

If your on the stock ECU, it sounds like limp mode. No timing advance or fuel unless the manifold sees vacuum.
If you are still on the stock ECU, since you didn't mention a CEL, I'll assume you have a RHD model. You'll have to check for codes and see what the issue is...... http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html . IIRC the procedure is the same as LHD North American Models, but it's the Exhaust Overheat light that blinks.

R.P.M.

iTrader: (3)

Oh wow, I feel retarded. Its been a long week lol.

So its been quite a while since I've done an emission delete on a stock ECU'ed FD and I forgot that you NEED to put the 330ohm resistors in place where the vacume solinoids used to be or else it goes into limp mode.

Duh....

Thanks guys for the suggestions, time for me to go catch up on some rest lol.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

did this fix the problem.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Im sure it fixed the problem just like it will in your case like I posted in your thread. If the resistors are in place it will no longer pull the check engine light. The CELs will be stored but the light will not light up and your car will no longer be in limp mode. I promise this will fix your situation.r

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the continued help seven. how much time am i looking at to do the resistors? (I.e. pulling mani, etc)

djseven

iTrader: (56)

With the car being non-seq, the manifold takes all of about 3 minutes to remove. The resistors all depend if you solder or crimp and how comfortable you are with doing either of those. You have 7 or 8 resistors to connect. Not difficult but time consuming if you dont have everything you need to do the job.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

i have the spade connectors and most of all the electric **** .. while I can do it, i just prefer not too lol