Is there any sites with a detailed method of removing the stock factory turbos, without removing the engine ?

-Or is this wishful thinking...

 

I think it can be done without taking the engine out. They are more or less beside the engine, it think you could get at em' from underneath.

As for detailed instruction, havent got a clue man, ill keep an eye out for you though!

 

its not hard at all to take off. take the y-pipe off and then take the downpipe off, and then you can see everything. its really pretty easy. takes about a hour. but you can go look on a shop manual.
http://www.fd3s.net/shop_manual.html

 

i found a few sites and threads here on the forum that give you a rundown of what needs to be done. but you just need to remember it's all a bit tighter on RHD because of the steering arm.

it's all fairly straight forward and you just start removing anything that's in the way (incl. a section of the steering arm). for someone who has done a manual gearbox conversion you will have no problems removing the turbos (except broken studs)

 

I've done it, and if you have help (or even an engine hoist) it's not too hard to steer the whole unit out. The steering arm doesn't help, but I think the arm sits below most of the turbos, and once you get them moving upward the arm doesn't matter anymore.

I've done it alone, so I also remove the wg and pc actuators so that I have more maneuverability without scratching up the engine bay. But that's because I'm leaning over the car lifting with one hand and trying to look for snags and guide the turbos with the other hand. A 3rd hand would probably be all you need to get them out in one piece with ease.

Dave

 

What sort of time frame does it take to do this ? 4 Hours ?

 

no need to remove the engine to get the turbo's out.your 1st time removing the turbo's takes awhile but its not really that hard.Get some PB blaster and soak all the bolts before removing them.The turbos come out from up top,but you get most of the bolts from underneath.Search for" twins removal" there are alot of good links with pics to help you along the way.

 

this should help too https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/stock-twin-turbo-nuts-bolts-locations-485829/

 

HKNY is right the first time it takes a while. 4hrs sounds about right but possibly more. but in saying that give yourself a day and take your time

 

You can take it out without taking the engine out. just have patience and make sure you soak the nuts down so you dont snap any.

 

I actually took out my turbos today. I had the car worked on two years ago by KDR (who are great, and will be going back soon) and they took the turbos off so all the bolts came off without any kind of soaking.

The process takes a long time if you have no clue what you are doing and don't have very good tools. I learned that if you can get the downpipe off easily then the process isn't that hard. I couldn't and had to sawzaw the downpipe off, ugly process.

Really though, almost all of the bolts besides the downpipe are in rather easy to work with spots, and make sure you know something about, or remember where the hoses are going to when you put them back on. I am going single so I am getting rid of most of the hoses anyway.

The whole process took me about 4 hours and I had never really messed around down there before. good luck

 

its also a good time to replace the coolant lines to the turbo's if they are old .

 

Here are some basic steps for the removal:

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=557

Keep in mind, that those steps are geared towards LHD cars.

 

Kind of ironic, I removed my turbos yesterday also in hopes of diagnosing my secondary turbo issue. It went fairly smooth, but took longer than expected of course. I must be lucky, every stud but the 2 upper ones where the downpipe connects came out when I loosened the nuts. Is this normal? I soaked everything with PB overnight.

anyhow, on a side-note my secondary looks fine so I am at a loss as to the problem. It should be pulling some air in @ idle, correct? Mine had none so I figured the blades were messed up somehow.

Mike

 

It is normal for the nuts to gall (seize) onto the studs. I would put a thin washer under each one before reassembling just to be sure it gets good clamping force.

Dave

 

or some high temp antisieze

 

I agree with that, but the washer is still necessary IMHO.

Dave

 

If your going to use antisieze use the copper colored instead of the silver stuff. Its higher temp and wont burn off.

 

This is a nickel based anti-seize that works great (Loctite N-5000).

http://rshughes.com/products/079340_51346.html

 

If you have a stock down pipe, you might run into some trouble. They are not fun. Other than that it is a simple process, it just takes a while. I would suggest having a cold beer ready and waiting on you when your done if this is your first big job on your car.

 

PB blaster will be your friend. and reassemble will high temp anti seize.