Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I've seen a lot of posts where people don't know all the bolts needed to remove the stock twins turbos. So, I snapped a quick picture while the engine is still out of the car to show them.

Keep in mind, you also have the coolant connections above the turbos....

alberto_mg

Sweet! I smell archive material.

saxyman990

And the oil feed line.

Great post. I'm sure this will help some people out.

-Rob

rotoober

iTrader: (3)

Pulling mine off over Christmas to fix a persistent oil leak, this will be of great help! Thanks!
Would you reccomend replacing the return lines at this time or just new gaskets? Pretty shure this is where my leak is originating from.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Usually you just need new gaskets. There are 4 of them (3 all the same, 1 odd ball one).

alberto_mg

DamonB had a thread a while back where he wound up replacing his. I think it was to cure a persistent oil leak. Might want to search for that thread or wait to see if he'll chime in on this one.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Just when I thought the Therapy was finally doing some good,.....I see that image again!!!

D4rw1n

iTrader: (2)

I have to replace my stock twins soon, does anybody have a list of all the gaskets and misc. parts that need to be replaced including part numbers?

DamonB

Let's see. When I removed my turbos I broke that one, and that one, and that one and stripped that one and that one

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

lol!

For those of you looking to do some turbo work, you'll notice most of those nuts that go to the exhaust manifold studs are new in the picture above. Those nuts are almost $6 each. Anti-Seize will be your friend.

DamonB

And you'll need the super duper copper anti-seize. The plain silvery stuff won't survive turbo heat.

dubulup

big part as to why I went single...didn't want to buy another brick oven

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

NICE! Thanks guys...this is PERFECT timing! I'm about to tackle this for the first time in a week or so

BTW, Mahjik, you wouldn't happen to know of a thread how-to (that still has pics up for disassembling/stripping a long block to a short block, would ya?

~Ramy

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Nope, but it's pretty easy. Things will come off in pretty good size chunks. Removal is the easy part, assembly is more time consuming (as you don't care how it comes off, but you care how it goes back together ).

saxyman990

Agreed. But if this is your first time disassembling an engine, I would suggest that you take your time removing the components. If you have access to a digital camera, then take pictures of every step along the way. Label everything too. A little thought and organization while you're disassembling everything will save you major headaches when you're putting everything back together.

-Rob

patfat

I can lend a hand. Let me know when

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Mahjik, good point (as usual).

Rob, who said anything about putting it back together? Maybe next time

Pat, pshhh...sure man. I'll def. welcome all the help I can get, esp. it being my first time and all. I'm prob gonna buy an air compressor, impact gun, and flywheel breaker tool. Hopefully the main pulley doesn't turn out to be impossible (I've heard horror stories haha).

If you're free, I'm planning to tackle it on the 14th onward. The sooner the better, so PM me your availability from the 14th onward and we'll go from there. And of course, food and drinks are on me

~Ramy

Ehron

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to bring an old thread back from the dead, but do you think it is easier just to pull the engine when replacing the turbos?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you are fairly stock, then no I don't think that's easier. Some of the single turbo or non-seq guys don't have much around their engines so it's no sweat to yank it out for any little maintenance.

The only time it's hard to pull the turbos is the first time.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Pic will definitely be helpful to some. Don't forget your heat shields!

Ehron

iTrader: (1)

You aren't lying about the first time. I couldn't break half the bolts I could get to, and I was pulling so hard I was afraid I was going to strip the heads right off of them. I figured that might be less of a problem with the engine out.

I am replacing the stock turbos with a single kit, eliminating all unnecessary vacuum lines, GZ LIM, and I think a new radiator so I figured the easiest thing to do might be to remove the block.

Oh well. I will try the penetrating oil one more time before pulling it out. Thanks for the tips.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

dont i know it. the stock exhaust was put on with seizing nuts. i made the mistake of putting the same ones back on. then after a series of exaust leaks and striped bolts i learned my lesson...

illusion38

iTrader: (1)

1992 JDM working on replacing the Twins out with OEM. I found so far the process not to be horrifying, however I am stuck on two last nuts needing help. They arnt on insane tight or stripped, its just I cannot get to them. Attached is the modified original picture posted at the top. Is it best to get this from top or under the car? I have been trying extentions, u joints, everything and no luck. HELP!!

Ryan G

RLaoFD

iTrader: (6)

It looks like going from under the car would be the best way.

gafu mazda

back from the dead


here ya go Mahjik