Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

FDs are so rare around here that i have not driven any except my own. But i dont think its slow, even stock xD
My impression is that the stock setup would **** itself pretty fast?

I had considered this as a way to do it, but then first BNRs and then move up to EFR. But i was told that going past 400 (why i would consider single) would not be very recommended on a SMIC setup. Thus push me into V-mount and the ball start rolling on both time and cost involved as i would want to do it properly if i went that way. BUt i may be wrong in assuming SMIC cant handle 500 rwhp?

So 380 is possible on stock twins? :o



Interesting input! Thanks.
I had considered issues with the solenoids, and that was one of the reasons for wanting the Stage 2 sets from BNR. They come with upgraded actuator assemblies that will work with stock solenoids. At least thats what he says.
Why would not the stock FPR work with this you think? (i dont know any better so i ask the stupid qustions to learn )

Then the injectors, i was not aware they where for CNG. The car is not used much, maybe once every week. Why is this a proble, and are the other alternatives to those i liked? Maybe the ones from IRP
The reason for having stock primaries are easy idle and such. Is it the size that you consider to be an issue since you recommend 4x1300 instead of 550 + 2200?

Not cracked, but i like new shiny stuff.

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

Yes, 380 is possible on stock twins but it's going to be tough to get there to be honest. Especially with stock porting. My last R1 was stock twins but was built and ready to make bigger power. I had the stock 550 primaries and 2200cc secondaries (plenty of fuel) with the upgraded rotary performance fuel pump. I was still using a stock mount Peter Ferral intake and intercooler, downpipe, and a PFC to tune it. Great car but only made 313whp on the Rotary Performance dyno (which I believe to be a bit conservative). Was there more left in it? Sure. Was there 380whp left in it? Probably not.

To get stock twins in that range you'll need some other mods to boost the efficiency of your entire system. Going with a street port would help but that requires a rebuild and that's big money. The xcessive lower intake manifold might help you get closer to that mark too.

BNRs are like stock twins+. They're just a little bit bigger so they flow more but ultimately I think they share the same exhaust manifold which is the limiting factor. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong here. It saves you a lot of money to do the entire setup you are talking about but keep the stock twins and see how you like them. It would give you time to learn the car and get the rest of it sorted too. Then one day when the itch for more power comes back (and you have more money) you upgrade to a single.

Regarding SMIC vs vmount....yes, a vmount is better. Period. But there are still large SMIC options that should work well for the sub 500whp mark. The M2 large is one that has substantial surface area and flows well. Like you, I didn't want to pursue a vmount just yet so that's what I did. Don't kid yourself though, a SMIC is 100% worthless without a proper duct so make sure whatever you do there has something that directs airflow THROUGH the IC and not just around it. As an example, pictures of my setup are below. Getting it tuned right now and shooting for 400whp on 93 running an EFR 7670 with water/meth injection.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I think you're on a good track here.

First off, read through Banzai Racing's step through of mods on a stock FD and dyne results with each -
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...added-1104322/

Car went from bone stock to 340hp with bolt-ons and a good tune on stock twins. On the twins, I think 340-350 is right about the limit of what they can do at around 14 psi of boost on a stock-ish engine. I've seen 380 on stock twins but that's flogging them hard and pulling out all the stops, I think that was non-sequential as well.

400hp is VERY possible with the BNR's, I've seen IR Performance do it more than once at a reasonable amount of boost.

I think your goals are realistic and the budget is realistic as well.

Here's my take on it -

FUEL
RP fuel rail - it's a good way to go. Those are Bosch injectors on the rail and I see no long term problems with them. RP has been running that setup on many customer cars with no problems. Also, I don't see any problem with using the stock FPR - a fuel pressure regulator is a simple device, the only downside to it is you can't adjust your base fuel pressure and there's really no need at the power level you're looking at.
Walbro fuel pump rewired - solid proven way to go.

IGNITION
The HKS Twinpower is a great way to go but it's not available new any more and can be hard to find used. The IGN-1a setups are killer and have even more spark. DriftinJim on the forum makes a nice kit and Sakebomb does as well.
Run all 9s for plugs

INTAKE/EXHAUST
You'll definitely need an exhaust with good flow to make your numbers. Do you need to pass emissions? If so that will limit some options on the main cat.

ECU
I've had friends with the Adaptronic that had funky problems with them - as in car on the side of the road and won't start problems. That has left me with a bad taste in my mouth there. PFC is solid and proven and can easily handle what you are wanting to do. If I wasn't going PFC I would go Haltech - costs more but is super powerful and very reliable and well built.

OTHER
You will probably also be needing a clutch in the near future. The other big thing is wheels/tires - making that kind of power you'll need some substantial rubber or you'll just be smoking tires. You'll probably need wider wheels as well. And you'll need brakes that are capable, when you can get up to 100mph in a few seconds you need to be able to safely haul it down. Don't need a big brake kit but good quality performance pads and a healthy brake system is a must.

I'm also of the belief that you would be better off starting with the stock twins, building everything up around them, then going BNR or single.

Also, if you're aiming for around 14 psi you really don't need a 3-bar MAP sensor, the stock MAP sensor will do just fine.

Dale

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

I agree with Dales post above. I originally built my car for 500whp, EFR,potted motor etc I ended up with 408whp on my first tuning session with plans to go back to turn up the boost more.

But after driving the car like this my plan is just to keep it as is and enjoy it. I have wide Re71r tires and even still 1st gear is useless, 2nd gear is sketchy from 6k rpm on, then 3rd finally feels confident lol.

I don’t see any reason to go for more power unless I step up to a boost by gear setup.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Stock regulator will work but keep in mind that most modern injectors like ID are flow rated at 43.5psi base fuel pressure, so they will not flow 100% the rated amount. While some have made 400hp+ with the stock twins, their tiny size and 270 degree thrust bearings will cause them to fail very prematurely.

billyboy

The stock reg isn't great with large bypass. Your ECU of choice designer had a video up 4 or 5 years ago after he tested various regs including the stocker and it went out of regulation much sooner than any of the other options - it might still be up on youtube perhaps? I wouldn't be concerned with the actuators at all, wastegate and precontrol solenoids might be ok based on my testing to high teens psi. Turbo control, charge control, charge relief would be my concern, unless pressure they see is limited somehow, then the old check valves will more than likely blow in half, it never stops.

Maybe it's just the fuel here, which is mostly all imported now from Singapore, South Korea, Japan and god help us China! I've witnessed the 2200s going lean after short sessions on track and at the dyno, needing constant tweeks with the laptop, before being sent off again for cleaning. Maybe Norwegian fuel is refined locally, like we used to, and you won't run into that issue - I'd be watching afrs like a hawk or better, logging at the very least. The injectors we were running here originally on petrol at around 270kw were actually 1000cc x 4, can't remember the duty cycle now, but it would have been safe. Wouldn't be surprised a bump in the base fuel pressure would cover the extra 30kw you're chasing, but the 1300s will **** it in. I don't like 30 year old injectors either, even if you bought new denso 550s, still poor latency compared to the new stuff.

If you wanted a shiny new manifold, I'd hit it with glass beads, first run it will be back to how it was. You won't and shouldn't see it with heat shields in place anyhow, ha.

By coincidence, noticed these the other day. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/land...rbo/1221377927 wouldn't be surprised they're misrepresented or rooted internally! Centrepunching shows somebody has been inside.

Zepticon

iTrader: (1)

First off, thanks a bunch to everyone for helping out! It has really helped out getting a better idea of both scope, priorities and expectations!

Yes, at some point i will have to open the engine, that is the kind of big money and car on jackstands for several years kind of project. Also, as you say, i would like some experience with upgrades like this, but also how the car drives with more hp.
I dont want to go in the same trap one of my friends did. Bought a supra, had it mostly stock for a season, then the crank broke (?). He decided to put 25 grand in the engine, aiming for 1000+ RWHP. No experience with anything, and sold the project to another friend of ours for a pretty decent loss after 2 years on jackstands. My ultimate goal is a full specced out 8376 IWG setup on a V-mount with 550 RWHP but by the time i get there they probably have released the next and even better line of turbos. Why 550 one may ask? Maybe just a numbers game with the other guys i use to hang out with and their R32s, 300zx and Supras who make those numbers on just a remap.

I followed the Banzai thread but i didnt revisit it before starting this plan. So i should do that
- I need to pass emissions, both because inspections, but also because i care about them. Thats the main reason my first take was Adaptronic.
- IGN-1a research has commenced.
- Reading up on the finer points of Haltech and i think i will go with an Elite 2500. Price is within my reach, and they have lots of options to expand using the CAN system, if i understand it correctly.
- I have an ACT Street Perfomance disk with less than 1000 miles on it. Rated for 402 freedom torques. Had to swap since my old stock slipped on secondary turbo engagement in 4th and 5th.
- Im on the lookout for a RZ/SP-R setup, but until then i will get proper pads.
- Wheels are on the budget this summer, tried and tested RPF1 spec (9.5/10) with 225/265 tires.

Well thats nice to hear. Maybe i will be very satisfied with the twins and just leave them and scrap any single plans

Thanks for confirming. I was gonna write that i hate the after market ones with a gauge on, but a google search tells me that not all of them have this, and that makes them a lot more appealing. As long as they can be mounted in a way that looks stock-ish and not scream rice Also most of them use AN stuff and i would like to stick with the stock rubber. More research required here i see.

But deep in my soul i would know the truth. While doing my clutch, i had my PPF out. And i painted it red. Nobody will ever see it, but i know i got a red PPF and i love it xD.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I vote keep the stock sequential twins and do as much of the single turbo mods you can afford wothout ski.ping on quality.

Its plenty fast, you will learn a lot and when the twins die hopefully you have enough saved for an efr 8374.

The turbo, not the kit- and can fab the lines and manifold with the skills you have learned leaning on the twins.

That is the route I took with my old FC. Maxed out stock hybrid turbo and then built my efr 7670 set-up for under $3,000 remaking a used hks manifold and twin tial mvr wastegates. Had all the sypporting mods already, so swapped turbos and dyno tuned.

aplscrambles

iTrader: (7)

I'm a little late to the party, here, butttt… you can run a walbro 400 in your stock hanger securely without any kind of bracket. The pump and its outlet are a slightly different size, but will secure to the stock hanger just fine using the hose included with the install kit...as long as you're not running corn fuel. It will supply plenty fuel for your goals, the 450 and 525 "hellcat" pumps have a slightly different size body that requires the bracket, and they use a lot more amperage to get a little more flow. As far as the "sakebomb relay kit" you can get a deatschwerks fuel pump hardwire kit for like $40. If you really want to depin your stock connector, IRP can tell you the right part nos for the pins. They might be a couple bucks. Lastly. Don't do the adaptronic. Just don't. PFC will be fine for your goals at half the price on your spreadsheet, but if you must upgrade, go with haltech or something else. Optionally, if it's in budget, I'd also do a coil upgrade, at least a twin power if not IGN1a's. You can get a kit from driftinjim on this forum for a lot less then sakebomb. All this is assuming all other cooling and intercooler mods have been addressed, wire harness is good, engine is fresh, tuning is good etc. etc. Expect to blow your budget by a lot.