Here is a step by step removal and installation. I kind of rigged the ending part but it looks like it will work! Pictures are pretty much in order.


Step 1: Remove the screws from the back of the wheel where the key goes in. There will be 3 screws, Phillips head.

Step 2: Locate the Rubber things that will contain the bolts that hold the front of the wheel on. Take the rubber things off, there should be 3.

Step 3: Unbolt the 3 bolts with a 10 mm socket.

Step 4: Move Air Bag away from the wheel to be able to see the plugs.

 

Step 5: Unhook the Cruise Control plug (white) and then unlpug the orange and blue connector. It it wierd and can cause a litte trouble get it unhooked. Just take your time.

Step 6: Locate the steering wheel nut. It is in the middle. Get either a 21 mm (from what I have heard) socket or a 13/16 socket (What I used) and unbolt the nut.

Step 7: Wiggle the steering wheel from left to right, then up and down. It will come off, be patient and keep moving it.

 

Step 8: Remove the clock spring held by 3 phillips head screws. (Only do this if you want only the horn, you might want to keep it but I didn't.)

Step 9: Take the efini wheel apart. Get the horn clip and sauter a wire to it. (Look in pictures)

Step 10: Strip the black and green wires from the clock spring. Just cut the others and tape them up.

Step 11: Pull off the metal covering, 3 phillips head screws and hook 2 wires to it, one to the Horn Clip and one to the brass insert or in betwwen the cover. MAKE SURE TO MAKE THESE FAIRLY LONG, AS YOU WILL NEED EXCESS WIRE TO BE ABLE TO STEER THE WHEEL AROUND.

 

Step 12:MAKE SURE YOU COVER THE METAL WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE! Hook the wires you hooked to the cover to the wires you stripped. Make sure along the way you check to make sure it is beeping before you put it back! IF YOUR CAR CATCHES ON FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE SOMETHING GROUNDED YOU CAN NOT BLAME ME!!!!!!!!! CHECK THE WIRES BEFORE YOU PUT EVERYTHING BACK ON!

Step 13: Replace the wheel, just push it on tight, the replace the nut tight.

Step 14: Replace the cover and you are done!

 

Wala!

 

Please note to MAKE SURE the battery is disconnected, SRS connector disconnected and the brake pedal pushed for a minute or so to discharge the Air bag circuit. These things can kill you.

tom

 

YES! I forgot! Air Bags are very dangerous! Anyone with anything to add just post it!

 

So you eliminated the clock spring and now your signals no longer auto cancel? All you had to do was rotate the clock spring 180 degrees and enlarge the notch in the back of the Efini steering wheel.

 

I knew you could do that enlarge the notch and rotate the clock spring, but I didn't have a need for all those wires and the clock spring. What I didn't think of was the auto cancel of the signals. ****.

 

what is going to be sweet is when those wires chaff and ground out in the steering box and the horn is blasting...

 

What is chaff? They can't ground out, everything is taped up.

 

I like the Avatar myself now those are sweet !!

tom

 

I went out and drove it, everything went good, steering was awesome. Wire stays perfectly straight, can't tangle with anything. The turn single thing isn't bad, half of the time I had to turn it off myself anyways.

 

chaffing is what is going to happen to the tape and wires over time. they will rub against the metal. the metal will rub through the covering. just a question of when

 

Still don't understand? Why will the tape and wires chaff? The metal will rub through what covering? I might try to change my design a little.

 

 

horn work?

Tim

 

Some days this place scares me

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/efini-steering-wheel-install-368181/

http://www.silverbulletrx7.com/StWheel/StWheel.html

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=302479

 

I suppose if you never tried to steer there won't be any trouble.

 

Yeah, works great. I went and checked it this morning, still works fine.

 

What the hell! What is going to happen? The wires are sautered and taped then taped together, I made a plastic piece around the wheel so they can't tangle, what is wrong with the design?

 

Just because it's driving me nuts -

It's CHAFE, as in metal rubbing against a wire and rubbing through, and SOLDER (pronounced "sotter") which involves a soldering iron and solder to join wires .

I hate being spelling police, but seems there was some confusion with "chaff" (which are metal strips an airplane ejects to fool radar-seeking missiles).

Dale

 

My bad on the spelling of solder. Anyway from that definition of chafe that won't happen with my design, so far so good.

 

How? The clock spring contains electrical contacts in a circular pattern so that there's no wiring to twist when you take three turns of the wheel to the right, and then three back. If you're doing that continually with the wiring you ran, you run the risk of damaging the wire eventually.

On the plus side, it's only a ground wire (or should be), so if it does get pinched or damaged, the worst that can happen is that your horn stops working.

 

I see that after I suggested using the clock spring, you've decided not to.. What a waste of time I spend taking pics for you.

Like others said and I suggest before, you should use your clock spring for the horn.. Over time, solder will break because of constant turning of the wires.. Unless you don't drive your car that often..