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Starting problems after re-build.

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Old 06-05-06, 02:32 PM
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GT4088R

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Starting problems after re-build.

Re-built my engine and just got it installed. Trying to start it and it seems like it is just flooding as the plugs are soaking. There is alot of fuel vapour coming out of the exhaust aswell.

If I take the leading plugs out and crank it, I get big flames comming out of the leading holes and the odd one out of the exhaust (no DP on yet).

Once I put the plugs back in, it just doesn't want to start, not even trying.

I am running a PFC and have got rid of the rats nest, so I have a load of plugs unconnected.

I havn't compression tested it yet but the compression seems good considering the psst noise comming from the plug holes.

Any Ideas lads???

PFC is running the base map and injector duty is 15% when cranking.

Last edited by BuckyFD3; 06-05-06 at 02:34 PM.
Old 06-05-06, 03:12 PM
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GT4088R

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The compression is 4.5 bar each rotor. Thats running massive ports half bridge and the battery isn't charged very well (since I have been trying to start it most of the afternoon)

Should I try a bit ATF???
Old 06-05-06, 03:16 PM
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Well, I would contact someone that builds motors and see if they are willing to offer some advice.
Old 06-05-06, 05:26 PM
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hi mate,,,, start with all the basics,,,, What do you know about rotary engines have you tried the unflooding procedure ( do u know how to do this) , because if a rotary is flooded it dont matter how much you crank, it wont start (ask me how i know).
you could try a little ATF after u have unflooded,,, then u could try a fuel pressure check and make sure that the fuel system holds its pressure (I.E so theres no fuel leaks into the engine via injector leaks ect),,,,
Im very keen to know what plugs you have removed ect,,,more info?
Old 06-05-06, 06:46 PM
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I removed the trailing spark plugs if that's what your on about. I have tried the unflood procedure. just wets the plugs again.
I knew it wouldn't start first time considering the ammount of petroleum jelly that was in the engine, it just clogged the plugs up.

I have left it over nite to dry out so will try again later.
I managed to get the engine started when both rotors had very little compression before the rebuild. used atf and finally got it going, then realised it wasn't right and re-built it.

Just looking for ideas.
Old 06-05-06, 07:02 PM
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also what is the min ammount of sensors needed for the pfc? i'm getting fuel and a spark.
Old 06-05-06, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BuckyFD3

I havn't compression tested it yet but the compression seems good considering the psst noise comming from the plug holes.

Any Ideas lads???

Those psst noises mean nothing. Even the weakest engines will make that noise. Compression test the engine with a piston tester. I tested my fresh engine before the first start-up and got 80psi on both ( and that was with rock hard new RA seals, used housings, and one slightly scoured one). What was your side seal to corner seal clearance? If that gap is too wide, you will never build healthy compression.

Last edited by t-von; 06-05-06 at 07:32 PM.
Old 06-05-06, 07:43 PM
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Unflooding procedure is -> remove all 4 spark plugs (cook them dry with gas oven hob,,, thats what i do),, now remove the fuel pump relay and crank engine over for 20 seconds (should kick out a large mist of fuel out of spark plug holes),,,,leave 20 seconds then crank another 20 seconds,,,,
now squirt a tiny bit of ATF fluid in each rotor lower plug hole and wind the engine over manually using a socket on the alternator pulley( this is how i did it,,,,spun the engine over until i figured it had dont a few complete crank turns)
now replace plugs makeing sure ignition leads are on correct plugs and replace the fuel pump relay and give it a fire up.


Now considering u know all this and have tried this,,,,the next job is compression test, id want to see both rotors performing reasonable PSI on all 3 faces ( that means maybe 80/80/80,,,,,,,,,,,, not 80/80 /10??) (they will all be a little low but sure have numbers close to each other).
Old 06-06-06, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tiger18
Unflooding procedure is -> remove all 4 spark plugs (cook them dry with gas oven hob,,, thats what i do

Push starting is what I've always done and it's worked every time.
Old 06-06-06, 02:29 AM
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Just tried a bit 2 stroke in the plugs holes as I havn't any ATF at the moment. Its trying to start now but still not there. I'll get a hold of some ATF and try again.

I'm running RA seals and new housings, so looks like they need a bit of wearing in.
Old 06-06-06, 12:25 PM
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If you took you injectors out during the rebuild you probly have a uncontolled leak in the orings. That is why you are flooding out and your have the problems. Get a gauge and hood it up to see if you lose pressure just after the pump primes with the key on.

Good luck.
Old 06-06-06, 12:44 PM
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Injectors were left in their rails.
Old 06-06-06, 02:01 PM
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I have tried using the PFC and the standard ECU, both of them dont work.

The ammount of fuel going through the engine just looks f*cking stupid, far far too much. The ammount of vapour is unreal.

Drying the engine out now, has anyone tried "easy start" to try and start and engine??
I have disconnected the fuel pump relay and left the ignition sparking and will try and get it to run on easy start. If it fires I know I have a problem with the injectors.
Old 06-06-06, 05:27 PM
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Is the TPS sensor set correctly? I could guess that something is fooling it to overfuel???
Old 06-06-06, 06:33 PM
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I havn't touched the tps sensor at all, not even had the TB off the inlet and apexi is showing 3% fuel wheb turning over, is 15% at the turn of the key. I.e fuel enrichment for cranking.
Its got me stuck.
Old 06-06-06, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BuckyFD3
I'm running RA seals and new housings, so looks like they need a bit of wearing in.


Again do you have the proper side seal to corner seal clearance? New housings and new seals isn't going to make a bit of difference if the side seal to corner seals clearance is too wide. You need to compression check the engine and stop guessing.

Last edited by t-von; 06-06-06 at 11:59 PM.
Old 06-07-06, 12:02 AM
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compression test has been done if you read the previous posts. 4.5bar on each rotor with equal bounces. Side seal clerance was 1 or 2 thou.
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