Starter fuse or relay?
06-08-11, 08:40 PM
#1
Love Roto Power
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Saint louis
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Starter fuse or relay?
hi guys its me again.. if you havnt noticed im fairly new here and have lots of questions 
so i finally got my fd to boost and fun just fine.
but now i think i blew a fuse for my starter. the starter is not bad(me and my dad tested it today. manual contact)
so is there a relay that is used for this or a fuse?
and i can pop start the car..but this is not preferable method of starting ( my dad told me to make a push starter
any thing helps
so i finally got my fd to boost and fun just fine.
but now i think i blew a fuse for my starter. the starter is not bad(me and my dad tested it today. manual contact)
so is there a relay that is used for this or a fuse?
and i can pop start the car..but this is not preferable method of starting ( my dad told me to make a push starter
any thing helps
06-10-11, 01:04 PM
#3
Yeah I agree with evot23, we're gonna need some more info on this. What exactly happens when you turn the key to start? Do you get a clicking sound but no starter movement?
The "starter not turning over" is a very common problem with these cars and there are multiple culprits that could cause it to not turn over. But basically, as I understand it, if the starter does not get enough power through the circuit, it simply won't do anything. All you will hear is a click. sometimes if you turn the key multiple times it will start and has been dubbed the "click, click, start" issue.
If this is the case, you have a couple of things to check. Obviously, the health of the battery is first. Then the next two to check (easiest to fix) are the "Starter Interlock Switch" also known as clutch switch, and the "Starter Cut Relay" that was mentioned by evot23 above. The clutch switch is attached to the clutch pedal assembly and you can test it's functionality (resistance) with a multimeter if it is non functional (or has high resistance) you can either eliminate it or replace it. The "Starter Cut Relay' is part of the security system for the car. Most people just eliminate it and jumper the relay connection. Details here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/one-possible-fix-click-click-start-problem-remove-oem-security-relay-872841/
Once you have checked those, another likely culprit is the "Ignition Switch." It is a small white cylindrical part that is on the opposite side of the steering column from the key. It is essentially an electrical distributor and if you are very careful, you can open it up and check the electrical contacts. If the copper is pitted and blackened, you may be able to clean it up and repair it. This will only last you long enough to order a new one from Ray Crowe though. If you aren't getting good solid contact, the copper will just arc and destroy itself further. these are about $135 for a replacement (price subject to change).
If you fixed all of these and it still won't work. Check to see that you don't have another significant drain on your battery. Some accessories (like fans) can pull the charge of a battery down enough to give you starting issues as well.
As fa as fuses go, there are only a couple in the starting circuit. One is the Main fuse, which if blown you wouldn't be able to push start it. A 15 amp fuse designated 'engine' which is likely the same case, and a 40A fuse named B2 which I think is for fusing your HVAC system. so if your blower fans work, you know that one is good.
Good luck with your problem, It is likely the same that many of us have had to deal with.
The "starter not turning over" is a very common problem with these cars and there are multiple culprits that could cause it to not turn over. But basically, as I understand it, if the starter does not get enough power through the circuit, it simply won't do anything. All you will hear is a click. sometimes if you turn the key multiple times it will start and has been dubbed the "click, click, start" issue.
If this is the case, you have a couple of things to check. Obviously, the health of the battery is first. Then the next two to check (easiest to fix) are the "Starter Interlock Switch" also known as clutch switch, and the "Starter Cut Relay" that was mentioned by evot23 above. The clutch switch is attached to the clutch pedal assembly and you can test it's functionality (resistance) with a multimeter if it is non functional (or has high resistance) you can either eliminate it or replace it. The "Starter Cut Relay' is part of the security system for the car. Most people just eliminate it and jumper the relay connection. Details here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/one-possible-fix-click-click-start-problem-remove-oem-security-relay-872841/
Once you have checked those, another likely culprit is the "Ignition Switch." It is a small white cylindrical part that is on the opposite side of the steering column from the key. It is essentially an electrical distributor and if you are very careful, you can open it up and check the electrical contacts. If the copper is pitted and blackened, you may be able to clean it up and repair it. This will only last you long enough to order a new one from Ray Crowe though. If you aren't getting good solid contact, the copper will just arc and destroy itself further. these are about $135 for a replacement (price subject to change).
If you fixed all of these and it still won't work. Check to see that you don't have another significant drain on your battery. Some accessories (like fans) can pull the charge of a battery down enough to give you starting issues as well.
As fa as fuses go, there are only a couple in the starting circuit. One is the Main fuse, which if blown you wouldn't be able to push start it. A 15 amp fuse designated 'engine' which is likely the same case, and a 40A fuse named B2 which I think is for fusing your HVAC system. so if your blower fans work, you know that one is good.
Good luck with your problem, It is likely the same that many of us have had to deal with.
06-30-11, 11:32 AM
#6
Dealing with this same **** myself now...Turn the key this morning, click, click, click...(repeat a billion times)....click...nothing. Battery has 12.5v, nice bright headlights with the car off, terminal connections tight, etc....tried swapping relays (EGI and Circuit, no luck)...
Are there in fact TWO clutch switches? Which ones does the PFC monitor, because I can see my clutch switch toggling in the PFC switch monitor page. Also, all my fuses are good. I'm not getting any reference voltage to the starter when trying to crank in the START position...It's totally dead. The only thing I haven't checked is my ignition switch.
Thoughts?
Are there in fact TWO clutch switches? Which ones does the PFC monitor, because I can see my clutch switch toggling in the PFC switch monitor page. Also, all my fuses are good. I'm not getting any reference voltage to the starter when trying to crank in the START position...It's totally dead. The only thing I haven't checked is my ignition switch.
Thoughts?
06-30-11, 02:35 PM
#7
Ha! Just as I thought....I didn't see the 2nd clutch switch and the little plastic piece broke/fell out, so it wasn't engaging the switch. 
Idk if that's a fairly common problem, but that's what was causing my issue. And it turns out the PFC does NOT monitor that clutch switch, so it's misleading when you see it toggling in the PFC switch monitor. That doesn't necessarily mean everything's ok with BOTH clutch switches...
Idk if that's a fairly common problem, but that's what was causing my issue. And it turns out the PFC does NOT monitor that clutch switch, so it's misleading when you see it toggling in the PFC switch monitor. That doesn't necessarily mean everything's ok with BOTH clutch switches...
Trending Topics
06-30-11, 03:44 PM
#9
Indeed it does. The little plastic button that sits on the backside of the clutch (which presses the switch on the firewall) had broken. There are 2 switches, one which gets pressed while the clutch pedal is in the resting position (clutch engaged, and this is the switch the PFC reads), while the other is the switch that gets pressed when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor (clutch disengaged, and this is the one that completes the circuit to the starter).
Being that the PFC only reads the resting position switch, I was misled. I'll see if I can get a picture of it later to clarify. But yes, the car starts flawlessly now, every time. 
Being that the PFC only reads the resting position switch, I was misled. I'll see if I can get a picture of it later to clarify.
But yes, the car starts flawlessly now, every time.
The following users liked this post:
ZekeO (04-09-20)
Good question, I'd wondered the same thing. :P It's what threw me off of the clutch switch being bad when I saw it working, but clearly it doesn't monitor the important switch.
07-01-11, 10:30 AM
#12
Well, I got curious. I don't know the MT system very well, but from the manuals it seems that when you are running the cruise control as soon as you start to depress the clutch, the ECU read switch cuts off the cruise function. I don't know if this is the only function of that switch, but it seems to be one.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
12
10-07-15 08:12 PM
FC3S Timmy
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
16
10-03-15 01:08 AM
