Lucky for me, I did Rikki's non-setup.
So, I can reach it after I take off the UIM? Sounds easy enough. I don't wanna have to spend another night at my bro's garage...

 

Rikki's nonsequential setup is a joke, but thats another story (you arent getting the higher mid and upper band power that you could if you did it right)

If your solenoid rack is gone, and from whatever else you have done you can reach the primary fuel rail easily, then it shouldnt be too bad....what sounds easy could always become complicated tho....

- Nic

 

I would do the full setup, but I don't have a welder.
Anyways, I'll be replacing the FPD tomorrow after work. Thanks for the info!

 

damn. i could have given you a fpd..

 

130.00 for the part - damn thats expensive ! oh well, to get your baby to run right you have to do what you have to do ....

 

OK the squeling is the belt and now i tired what you said and the ideal will not ideal low. When iput it into first gear with the clutch in it will not ideal low, also it still over heating and it is full of coolant. I can blip it or tap the gas and it will go down to about 1500, but then the rmps pull like i had my foot on the gas to about 2800. Why is it doing this? I still have a major cooling problem cause i took out the thermostat thinking it was bad or i put it in wrong but that was not the case. I am thinking the water pump is not pumping,could this be the problem. Let me say the car died cause of over heating and thats why it has a new motor. SO something major could be wrong. Also the ideal is still. bad so please help out on this one. IM in the process of taking the water pump out.That my problem THank

 

Is it a new water pump monaco or the same pump from the engine that died on you originally?

replace the belt if its squeeling (or apply some dressing to it)

I really dont have any clue about the damn idel. Did you adjust the screw per someones suggestion on page 4 of this thread ?

 

ya new water pump but im pulling it tonite to make sure it looks ok. I am also doing a compresion test to see if it i have a bad seal due to over heating, i really hope not. Let you know tonite or tomorrow thanks and keep the help coming.
Thanks Marc

 

what kinda of reading should i get with the compresion test 150s perfect right so i should want like 100 right. And have it consistant at 100.

 

But, I don't think that's a part I would want to get used. Y'know what I mean?
Thanks for the offer though.

 

I think 125 is perfect.
100's is good.

 

hell ill take anything thats free.
marc

 

anyone else know what the compresion should be?

 

so i am thinking about this correctly, if i did warp a seal in while my dumb *** over heated it, the compresion should be low right

 

ok. again with the overheating...
you would have warped a HOUSING. this would cause coolant to enter the engine, thus your coolant level would NOT be full, and cause flooding of coolant. when you start the motor, can you see the coolant moving? (cap off ofcourse) i would not be worried about compression at this time...it is a new motor right?

are your fans working properly? is your temp sensor hooked up letting them know when to kick them in?

if the signal from the temp sensor is interupted the ecu will add more fuel via the primary injectors. this could also cause your high idle??

it is sort of hard to know EXACTLY what is wrong without anything (the car) infront of me/any of us.
does the idle bounce, or does it just sit still?

 

found it
it was the water pump, I cant even spin it once around with my hardest push, and no im not a bitch its really stuck.So im going to talk to dave at kds and see what he thinks. Rxrotay that a really good point with the ideal. Thanks but i think its all over for me. I hope!! Thanks again rxrotary i really do mean it.

 

let me/us know what the verdict is for your idle. or PM me for other help

 

Ok. Got a few things figured out.
The gas leak was not coming from the FPD, but I changed it any ways. The leak was coming from a banjo bolt nearby. I guess it wasn't on the right way. Glad I got that fixed. Now I can roll up the windows cuz it's getting cold.
The hissing sound is coming from the hose on the back of the air pump. I took it off and saw that the hose was split on one end for about 1 1/2'.
Went to order a new one at the dealer. But, they never have anything for our cars in stock, so I gotta wait till Monday.

 

you ordered a HOSE? at the dealer? do you enjoy pissing money away? just take it to your local auto parts store and fab something to work. then you wont have to wait until monday.

 

I didn't the regular hoses at autozone would be good for that. That hose is very thick. It's short and has a bend. The hoses at autozone are not as thick. If I try to bend it, it might kink. Plus it's very hot in the area behind the air pump. It's right about the turbo's.
Oh well whatever...

 

worked fine for me for a year before i ripped all that crap out