It's not that bad. You'll learn from all these problems after you fix em.

 

My idle is pretty rough...1200 RPM up-down, up-down.
I think this is normal for a new engine until break in...

 

how do you prime the oil pump?

 

do you have a new ecu? This may be obvious, but did you mix 50-50 coolant and water?

 

I have the stock ECU.
Yup, I mixed 50/50 water/coolant. I also added a bottle of water wetter.
My fans aren't coming on either. I took it for a short drive and pulled over to check. No fans. I let it sit and idle, still no fans. The temp guage didn't go up though..
Maybe I got a bad coolant sensor? But, it's new. It came w/ the reman engine...

 

this is a dumb question but is the sensor plugged in?If it is have you tryed to ground the plug to see if the light goes out (could be a broken wire or bad connection)

 

Yup, it's plugged in. I'll check if it's working properly later today. I might try putting in the old sensor and see what happens.

 

You need to ask Rikki he had the same **** happen once I forget what the cure was. I am pretty sure it was something that he just forgot to plug up.

 

i know i overlooked this twice so far. in the signal for the coolant level, there are 5 (if i remember correctly) conections along the way. make sure each of them is connected. this is a good time to look at your factory wiring book.

like stated before, if each of the connections are connected, try to ground out the signal from the sensor. in his case, the coolant is your ground. if by grounding the signal to your block and all the connections are all made, there is another problem. try grounding at each location (connection). if it works at one spot closer to the ecu, you know you cut/broke a wire durring yur removal. have you checked the dash harness. where it connects to the engine harness? if it was working properly before, it WILL work again. but sounds like you are missing a connection to the dash harness. from what i remember it is a yellow conection and a white, but i could be wrong. maybe you disconected it at the ecu when removing and forgot to hook it back up? are any of the guages working?

if you do not have the factory wire book, now would be a good time for you t get it.

 

Disable the coils and turn the motor over with the starter to get oil pressure. When you have pressure, fire it up.

 

Yup, guages are working. I'll try your method later today.

 

bump...

any more news on this vudoodoodoo ?

 

Disable the coils and turn the motor over with the starter to get oil pressure. When you have pressure, fire it up.

wouldnt that put fuel in the engine and flood it, just a thought. and how do you burp the coolant lines. Thanks Marc

 

i dont understand why you are priming the oil pump?

 

go re-check

 

You also pull the circuit opening relay. I've also been told to put a little ATF in when you prime the oil pump.

The best way that I've found to fill up the coolant is to remove the hose going from the throttle body to the block. This allows air to escape and makes filling it up easier. I only had to add coolant once in my new engine.

 

I think I found the problem. I tried grounding the connection. I stuck a wire into the sensor's connector on the harness side and grounded the other side of the wire. The coolant light stayed on. So, I think the wire for the light on the harness is messed up somewhere....
I'm gonna try it again once the car is cool... I hope this solves it... cuz I've been burping the system for days. My coolant is always at the top.
BTW, am I still supposed to be getting smoke in the exhaust?

 

ok, next step. got down the harness to the next connection. try the same thing there. ground that one. then do the same at the next connection after that. continue until you find your problem. by going one connector at a time you can narrow down your problem to a specific section/area.

BTW. what color is the smoke?
some smoke from a re-man is normal, the engine is "treated" because they do not actualy build this motor to drop right in a car.
re-man motors are run on propane to test before release. (from my understanding) then they have to "sit on a shelf" and wait for a home.
so some smoke is normal. (for maybe the first 10 minutes of running)

 

AH HA!!! I found it!
There is a small black wire on the harness that wasn't really connected. It's here the P/S pump. It sticks out of the harness about 2 inches. The connector on it comes off. I put it back on when I was putting the engine back in. I guess that was no goood. I just ran a wire from there and to where it was supposed to go. That did the trick!
Yay, no more coolant light!!!!
I'm still getting smoke though... a lot from the exhaust and some from the engine bay. There is smoke when I close the hood for a little bit...
Could it be an exhaust leak? The was a bolt on the downpipe that we couldn't get in all the way. It looked tight enough though...

 

The color is grey I think.
I've been running the car for a few days now, so I think that is more than 10 minutes...

 

does it seem obnoxiously loud? or louder than it did before? exactly where is this smoke comming from?
exhaust bolts can be a pain in the ***. sometimes you will need to loosen then tighten more. same with taking them off. if they get stuck, you put it back in a little, then continue to back it out. this should work in reverse also. try using some penitrating oil to help you out.
also, i noticed someone mentioned using ATF to help you "prime" your oil pump...did you put any atf in the motor? if so...this takes a little while to burn off...
by running, do you mean driving it around or starting it while trying to figure out your other problems like coolant buzzer?

so what other problems are you still having? anything we can help with?

 

I think the exhaust note is a little louder than before. That's what the non-seq setup would do.
I don't know exactly where the smoke is coming from in the engine bay.
I didn't put any ATF in the engine.
By "run" I meant turning it on and let it idle. I did drive it a few times though.

 

Did you replace the gaskets for the DP? If so they could be burning up a little bit, and that could be causing the smoke, thats what mine did until it burned up enough and then stopped smoking...

 

Nah, I reused the old one. The gasket set Malloy sold me didn't come w/ that.

 

check for all vacuum leaks, since you are non seq, also, make sure you have everything tight and blocked off correctly... what Ecu are you using?

I'd replace that gasket on the DP, and make sure everthing is tight.

Smoke from the engine is normal for a little while, not constant because it is burning off the oil and grease from your hands and such. smoke from the exhaust is normal for a while, as it is burning the oil treatment and vasoline used to construct the engine. I just rebuilt mine and it did the same, but it doens't smoke or anything anymore... i did the rebuild myself... i'm always a little worried about mazda remans...

A friend had a reman from mazda, it blew around 1000miles later, found out it had one turbo II rotor, and one n/a rotor.. how nice?