kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

Which hose has the bigger opening pill? the wastegate or prespool?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Stock Wastegate Pill is about .062"
Stock Turbo Pre-Control is about .058"

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Good thing you didn't mix them up
Wastegate has the larger hole.

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

Well I dont have either of them in the hose now, supposedly I should be getting 7-5-7 still but all my car does is buck and stutter. So I may have to go back in under the manifold soon..... sucks

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I expect that you will see better numbers when the restrictor pills are replaced. Opening up the prespool line can really mess things up.

dubulup

something is not right...how is your idle?

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

idle is good, hovering at 900-1kish

vacuum at 20 hg/in

will put pills back in soon.....thanks for input guys

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you go shopping for the carbuerator version of the pills, maybe you can get them in a larger OD to fit the 8mm hose. If so, that's probably the best solution. Of course, keep the stock ones for the future.

Dave

dubulup

quick note one silcon hose + oil blow by + restrictor pills = they will move and fawk with your boost pattern.

Reason the silicon hose (probably slightly bigger than the stock rubber hose) mixed with oil (even healthy twins will blow a little oil) is very slick and the boost coming out of the nipples will push those pills towards the actuator (or turn them side ways) and the pills won't get the chance to restrict very well...

solution, put a zip tie in the middle of the line (actuator side) and side the pill all the way down to the zip tie, that way they can't budge.

good luck.

JaNusSolSumnus

you could also make your own pills from aluminum rod and a drill press.

~Kris

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

ooooook i put the pills into 4mm silicone hose and back onto the actuators. car idles fine, 20 hg/in. but wow car boost EASILY! but thats the problem! it boost quick but the car just doesn't move. When i get off the throttle, thats when the car lurks forward. something is screwy and it looks like im going back into the nest...... again

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

just to close this thought in my head. i used the double throttle solenoid as my charge relief solenoid since i initially broke the nipple off the charge relief solenoid. and since i elminated the double throttle i no longer needed the solenoid. was it ok to use the double throttle solenoid as the charge relief solenoid? they look exactly the same and i believe its the same part #

dubulup

they are the same...all of them are the same, just some look different, as in nipple placement or some have a filter.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Are you sure you've got all the hoses in the right place? I would take off the UIM, Air Pump, and Air box. Then take a fresh printout of the hose diagram, and check the start/end of each hose, make sure none have kinks, and the direction of all check valves.

This version of the file has a couple clarifications and the colors of the check valves added:
http://web.newsguy.com/geesaman/vac_...iagram_dlg.jpg

It's an ugly thought, but for troubleshooting this might be a necessary starting point.

Dave

USCmatt

I guess I'm the lucky one to get this project next. Fedex will be dropping off my silicone hose kit this afternoon. I give props to all these write-ups and how-tos.

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

heh good luck, just remember where everything goes when you close her up.....


since im going back in, i might as well remove the ACV since i have the block off plates. Anything else I have to remove with that? and where the hell is the EGR and AWS?

Thanks for the input guys

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

interesting... so i went back in today, popped off the UIM.. spot a couple of possible kinks, not sure tho.. but I see that I have forgotten to plug in a harness back into the ACV.. right on the bottom... im assuming its the power source.... now could this have any effect on really fucked up boosting or not? thank you!

iluvmy3rdgen

The EGR is between the Y-pipe and the lim, it's the actuator that connected to the top of four hardlines going through the lim. The aws, and aws pipe are on the uim on the underside, once you remove the pipe.. the one going to the elbow you will see the aws solenoid which connects maybe a half inch away on the manifold. PM me and ill email you a picture of the aws solenoid.

iluvmy3rdgen

When i remove the fpr solenoid i just run the vacuum line from the fpr right to a nipple on the intake manifold right?

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

here is what i left unplugged....




here's a closer pic...



so could this have been causing big problems or not really?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I do believe that is the secondary injector on the rear rotor. That sounds like it could have been really bad - under hard throttle, wouldn't the a/f go lean if the injector isn't firing?

See the diagram on FSM F-105

Dave

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

OMG i just looked that is on the secondary fuel rail. oh **** did i just kill my motor?

edv

I sure HOPE not!
It would occur to me maybe under WOT without secondary injector, you might have gone so lean that it couldn't even detonate. Is that possible?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I'd be surprised the ECU wouldn't have thrown a code or something. I would hope the ECU checks the injector coil resistance during startup. If unplugged, the resistance would be infinite and I can't imagine the ECU would blindly assume it's present.

If the engine was damaged I think you'd know it. (i.e. it would be in limp mode, not idle well, etc).

Dave

JaNusSolSumnus

Wow, I saw that pic and was like, 'OMFG thats bad!' I'm sure you are okay though, just make sure they are connected next time, I almost left them off but I rechecked the wiring again and noticed I left them loose.

I ordered block-off plates today -- next weekend I will be taking her apart again as I cant seem to get a proper 12psi of boost when I romp it. I know some lines may be sort of tight and kind of kinking but I couldnt find a decent solution to this and I was out of hose.

I plan to just simplify it as much as I can without sacrificing the sequantial system that I love so much... The only system I am concerned with is the DTB but I am careful never to go above 3,000rpm or above 0psi/hg until the car is completely warmed up.

I know that removing the airpump creates a rich condition but I havent been running it for months (it is noticable by smell) but it seems to run fine. I was wondering if I deleted the airpump, what belt do I need? I cant seem to find a part number or length listing anywhere...

~Kris