RX7Wishing

bish :p

edv

Great. I just broke a nipple without even knowing it. Stupid Double Throttle Solenoid POS.

iluvmy3rdgen

Howmuch do used solenoids usually go for.. im simplifying my system and im gonna have some extra solenoids if someone is interested in them.. ill include all plugs for the solenoids because they are in great condition i only have 26k on my car/ motor. PM me if interested

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

Update,
I started to put the rats nest back into the car.. Damn its just about as hard to put the thing back into the car than taking it out!

Tip: connect the harness back to the solenoids first before you screw the rats nest back (which is the freaking hardest part)

I'm sad to say, im going to continue the project without changing one of the hoses... and thats the one that goes from the LIM to the Y-Pipe. It's just out of my reach. The nipple points DOWN from the Ypipe, its just unreachable! and I dont have the heart to pull the Ypipe off now....... I hope that hose isnt important as the others....

dubulup

Change it wimp. To pull the y-pipe is two bolts for efini, which I doubt you have since your scared to pull the stock Y is one clamp...unless, the bracket is still attached, then its two bolts and one clamp....frankly I don't see how you pulled the rats nest out and don't have the heart to pull the Y.

edv

Hey the Y-Pipe is not that tough, dude!
One thing that was not obvious to me the 1st time was that the y-pipe is really in 2 pieces, and once you've got the 4 nuts off, you can move the whole assembly...the part with the actuator will pull away from the y-pipe proper, then you can easily remove them from the bay. I didn't realize this till I had the assembly out (after loosening the ABS mounts, etc. sheesh)

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Not quite: 2 nuts to remove efini crossover (or coupler for stock). If you have a stock pre-cat, these guys are really tough. With a downpipe, it's easy.
Then remove the rear turbo inlet pipe (2 nuts reached from under the car, 1 screw from on top)
Then remove the 4 nuts that hold down the y-pipe assembly.

IMO, you really should remove it. You'll probably never be in under the UIM again, and those are some of the most highly heated hoses in the engine.

Dave

dubulup

LOL!!


but your are right about the disassembly...Bu, I'm thinking he can replace that hose with just removing the crossover pipe accessing the nipple pointing down.

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

One of the check valves broke. Its the one thats on the line goin from the Y-pipe to pressure chamber.

Since I am eliminating the double throttle solenoid, I have one check valve to spare, however this check valve is smaller than the one used on the y-pipe. Can I use the DT one to substitute or no? They are both one-way, just different size.

RX794 told me they are different in size to hold different amounts of air. I just want to get some other opinions on this matter. Will it be ok? Or will the size have no ill effects?

Thanks!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I've heard that you can swap them.

Dave

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

anyone else?

edv

BLOCKING OFF VAC HOSES:
Is there any good reason why I couldn't simply block off a hose by gluing a bolt or screw in the end of it, rather than buying caps?
I mean, the factory cap on the 'boost gauge' nipple on the extension manifold slides off pretty easily, and it is exposed to boost obviously.
thanks
edv

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Caps are easily removed and replaced. Glue is different. Anything that seals, and doesn't leak will provide the same result.

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

i believe some people do that but I always thought that putting a bolt into a silicone hose was not so good and that the threads of the bolt would slowly carve into the inside of the hose and eventually rip. just my thoughts.

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

I'm replacing the hoses at the actuators (wastegate & turbo precontrol). The diagram reads REPLACE RESTRICTOR. I ripped apart the old rubber hoses and sure enuff theres a tiny piece in there im guess is the restrictor. Can I reuse this pieces and just shove them into the silicone hoses?

Thanks

RX794

Told ya it was gonna be fun, hehehe.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, exactly. Just make you don't get them switched, and keep the hole aligned with the hose. They're brass so they'll never wear out.

Dave

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

hmmm the hose im using fits perfectly on the actuator nipples. i'm using the 8.0mm for those but the restrictor pills are TOO small! they roll around inside that hose! what to do? I can use a smaller hose cause that just wont fit onto the nipples!

Help!

Progress report: I've been feeling really bad about leaving that one hose rubber since I could not get to it. Well I figured out today that I do not need to remove the Y-pipe to get to that almost unreachable nipple. I just took off the airpump and voila! instant access! of course this was after I got the nest back into the car............. so....... I disconnected everything again... pulled the nest out..... and got that hose in..... now thats dedication.......

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

Ok i just put everything back together. car started fine. I kinda rushed putting all the intake stuff quickly and didnt clamp on a few hoses. going down my street i gave it some gas and i heard a WHOOOOOOOOSH like a line blew off.. pulled over.. it appears to be the coupling from the elbow to the intercooler. i clamped off all the hoses and went for another run. I'm getting ZERO boost.

Note: The hoses I replaced at the actuators (wastegate and prespool) are just the lines w/o pills but I believe even without the pills I should be boosting 7-5-7.

Initially I started this hose job because my secondary turbo wasnt coming online, it never has since I bought the car. But I would get a good 10-11psi out of the primary and then it dips down to 5psi and stays there.

Now what's causing my 0 boost?

Also I connected my laptop and ran datalogit. And using the monitor function. For the Sensor VTA1, it says 4.97 and its in RED. what is that? I believe its a warning but I don't know what.

JaNusSolSumnus

I am still in the middle of this.... gotta report to work in the morning too without a ride I broke two solenoids otherwise I'd be golden as everything else has been smooth as silk...

~Kris

kevinvr6

iTrader: (1)

Silly me, i keep jumping to conclusions, VTA1 was red because the harness was not plugged it onto the throttle body.

my car wasn't boosting because the LOWER HOSE on the IC popped off which I didnt see the first time.

Car is boosting but it does buck around 3.5k rpm. Feels like im hitting fuel cut. Again I don't have the pills in so maybe that will solve the problem? I'll wait.... Got some leaky coolant now, not sure where...

It seems to be flowing a lot better though. Because the hose change, when idle and revved, the car would barely build any boost until up around 6krpm.. now when im idle and rev, it builds boost and blows off with every blip. sooooooooo dunno

RX7Wishing

check to make sure u secured the coolant line that is in between the airpump and altenator and infront of the solenoid rack. i made the mistake of not and had a leak.

iluvmy3rdgen

Why does the coolant run throw the TB? I disconnected the robber hose from the TB and ran it right to the nipple betweent he airpump and alternator to by pass the TB and remove another hard line. Will this do anything harmful?

edv

I understand that the TB coolant line is for FDs that live in colder climates.
You may remove it with impunity, provided the car warms up properly before driving hard.
There is a 'How-to' for this, on the Robinette archive, I think.

JaNusSolSumnus

You can just bypass the line by disconnecting it and routing it past the TB with a Male/Male 3/8" barb. I fully intend to seal off the passages from the motor and on the TB in the future for the sake of a clean look.

~Kris