Started my vacuum hose change to silicone, and it sucks so far!
10-12-04, 07:10 PM
#26
apex seal BBQ
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Originally Posted by kevinvr6
heh none taken, how should i clean it? simply green doesnt seem to do a good job. maybe im not using the right material to wipe
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/whats-good-cleaner-use-engine-bay-320867/
10-12-04, 08:08 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Tom93R1
I did it this past spring in 2 days, 3-4 hours each. It really isnt too bad, my suggestions are
1) If something looks like it will be a pain in the *** remove it from the engine before working on it. I discovered it is worth spending the extra 5 minutes removing something than to spend an extra hour trying to work around it.
2) To remove old hoses the more slices you cut the easier it willl be to get off. You dont need to cut all the way through on the first cut. If repeating the cut 4-5 times can possibly save you a solenoid it was worth the extra time. After making all your cuts, peel back the hose from the nipple, dont twist or pull until it is no longer seized to the nipple.
3) replace one hose at a time. Even with the diagram there are so many in there it will take a month to redo the routing if you were to pull them all at once.
I feel for you guys working outside in the cold. I complain when I have to work on my car outside and it is 110, but I remember living in CO how much worse it is working outside when your fingers get numb and then start to hurt from the cold.
1) If something looks like it will be a pain in the *** remove it from the engine before working on it. I discovered it is worth spending the extra 5 minutes removing something than to spend an extra hour trying to work around it.
2) To remove old hoses the more slices you cut the easier it willl be to get off. You dont need to cut all the way through on the first cut. If repeating the cut 4-5 times can possibly save you a solenoid it was worth the extra time. After making all your cuts, peel back the hose from the nipple, dont twist or pull until it is no longer seized to the nipple.
3) replace one hose at a time. Even with the diagram there are so many in there it will take a month to redo the routing if you were to pull them all at once.
I feel for you guys working outside in the cold. I complain when I have to work on my car outside and it is 110, but I remember living in CO how much worse it is working outside when your fingers get numb and then start to hurt from the cold.
Either way, I did pull all my hoses around the same time, and just made sense of replacing them using the diagram. It wasn't that bad, but as with most cases it was time consuming.
Last edited by Shinobi-X; 10-12-04 at 08:11 PM.
10-13-04, 12:07 PM
#28
hose job
I did this last spring. It wasn't easy, but it wasn't super hard either. Just take your time. I would recommend getting the rats nest out. It is much easier to work on. Then with that removed it easy to replace the FPD and get to fuel injectors for cleaning and balancing. I sent mine to RC engineering. While I was in there I did the aluminum pulleys and Crane Hi-6 ignition amp.
Don't try to slit the hoses in one attempt. I just shaved it down to the nipple and it twisted right off.
Don't try to slit the hoses in one attempt. I just shaved it down to the nipple and it twisted right off.
10-13-04, 12:45 PM
#29
Potato Love
As far as the simplification goes, I've been wondering about that. Passing emissions isn't an issue for me. Any nasty effects if I simplify everything? I'll need to keep the air pump to keep the cat from clogging, but it seems I could get away without some of the things under that hood. Hmmmmm
10-15-04, 05:09 PM
#30
I finally got all the old rubber hoses off the solenoids. Now i have to piece everything back together. Which stuff do I NOT need anymore? I also need to replace some solenoids...
Well just one solenoid and one check valve.
can anyone help me out?
Well just one solenoid and one check valve.
can anyone help me out?
10-15-04, 05:15 PM
#31
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That's the Charge Relief solenoid. You'll need to replace it. Removing the AWS piping, double throttle control system, EGR, and FPR stuff is simplicity. Without the AWS and DTC, you'll need to be sure to never boost your engine when cold (you should never do this anyway).
Sonny
Sonny
10-15-04, 10:29 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Sonny
That's the Charge Relief solenoid. You'll need to replace it. Removing the AWS piping, double throttle control system, EGR, and FPR stuff is simplicity. Without the AWS and DTC, you'll need to be sure to never boost your engine when cold (you should never do this anyway).
Sonny
Sonny
can i use one of the other solenoids inplace of another? are they all the same? or do they all do a specific operation?/
10-19-04, 12:08 PM
#33
I'm a little stuck guys, where does this hose go??
the light blue one...
so i busted a solenoid H for charge relief but i'm going to remove the double throttle so i'm using that solenoid to replace for H, i figure thats ok since its the same part #.....
the light blue one...
so i busted a solenoid H for charge relief but i'm going to remove the double throttle so i'm using that solenoid to replace for H, i figure thats ok since its the same part #.....
10-19-04, 12:39 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Tom93R1
3) replace one hose at a time. Even with the diagram there are so many in there it will take a month to redo the routing if you were to pull them all at once.
But some folks are less 3d-visual than me, and the diagram is a little obscure in places. I can appreciate the one-by-one method as well.
Working in the cold CAN'T help - they are brittle enough in warm summer weather.
Dave
10-19-04, 02:39 PM
#36
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I think I'm gonna take Kung Stew's advice and go with the Goodyear rubber hose.
BTW I am not in a hurry b ecause it's snowing outside...I have camera, laptop and wireless Internet under the hood...if any of you guys need pics along the way of where things go....lemme know.
edv
BTW I am not in a hurry b ecause it's snowing outside...I have camera, laptop and wireless Internet under the hood...if any of you guys need pics along the way of where things go....lemme know.
edv
10-19-04, 02:48 PM
#37
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Here you go. I had to remove the ACV and fuel rail to access it. I also marked the two royal blue lines that come off the rack.
Dave
Dave
10-19-04, 03:05 PM
#39
Originally Posted by edv
I think I'm gonna take Kung Stew's advice and go with the Goodyear rubber hose.
BTW I am not in a hurry b ecause it's snowing outside...I have camera, laptop and wireless Internet under the hood...if any of you guys need pics along the way of where things go....lemme know.
edv
BTW I am not in a hurry b ecause it's snowing outside...I have camera, laptop and wireless Internet under the hood...if any of you guys need pics along the way of where things go....lemme know.
edv
It's an AA807 rated. [edit] confirmed: http://rlhudson.com/tech_astmd2000.html
AA807 means 70 deg C operating temperature, unrated oil swelling, 85 Shore A durometer, and 7MPa tensile strength. This means to us that it's not very good compared to silicone or viton. Silicone and Viton are about 200C operating temperature.
Offhand, I'd say this Goodyear is no different than stock - it will bake just like stock rubber. And I think it's pretty fair to say heat is the bigger problem than oil swelling since stock hoses bake solid, not swell. So if oil is of concern then go with Viton - losing heat resistance is not an option.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 10-19-04 at 03:31 PM.
10-19-04, 03:16 PM
#40
Originally Posted by kevinvr6
ah dammn didnt kno i have to remove the fuel rail too! ahhh this job is pissing me off!!!! thanks for the pic !!
Dave
10-19-04, 03:30 PM
#41
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Thanks for tip Dave.
BTW I just removed the bottom cover (radiator duct, etc) and I found a block heater cord!
I never realized that the FD had block heater....maybe I'll use it heat the garage
BTW I just removed the bottom cover (radiator duct, etc) and I found a block heater cord!
I never realized that the FD had block heater....maybe I'll use it heat the garage
10-19-04, 05:12 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Regarding the Goodyear: here is the product: http://www.goodyearbeltsandhose.com/cars/windwash.html. I could find no reference to fluorinated rubber - it appears to be regular rubber. And I sort of doubt anything labeled 'windshield washer' tubing would have fluoro modifiers for oil resistance.
It's an AA807 rated. [edit] confirmed: http://rlhudson.com/tech_astmd2000.html
AA807 means 70 deg C operating temperature, unrated oil swelling, 85 Shore A durometer, and 7MPa tensile strength. This means to us that it's not very good compared to silicone or viton. Silicone and Viton are about 200C operating temperature.
Offhand, I'd say this Goodyear is no different than stock - it will bake just like stock rubber. And I think it's pretty fair to say heat is the bigger problem than oil swelling since stock hoses bake solid, not swell. So if oil is of concern then go with Viton - losing heat resistance is not an option.
Dave
It's an AA807 rated. [edit] confirmed: http://rlhudson.com/tech_astmd2000.html
AA807 means 70 deg C operating temperature, unrated oil swelling, 85 Shore A durometer, and 7MPa tensile strength. This means to us that it's not very good compared to silicone or viton. Silicone and Viton are about 200C operating temperature.
Offhand, I'd say this Goodyear is no different than stock - it will bake just like stock rubber. And I think it's pretty fair to say heat is the bigger problem than oil swelling since stock hoses bake solid, not swell. So if oil is of concern then go with Viton - losing heat resistance is not an option.
Dave
AA= SBR or EPDM (both have absolutely horrible oil resistance)
The first A equals the temperature rating of the elastomer. On a scale from A to Z, A being the lowest temperature rating and Z being the Highest. This material must pass no heat requirements. As a comparison Silicone = G and Viton = F
The second A equals the oil resistance of the elastomer. On the same scale A being the worst and Z being the best, this material scores an A. This means that there are no swell requirements to meet the spec. If it swells 500% and falls apart it still meets the spec.
The first numeric digit is the durometer of the material measured on teh "A" scale. This material is 80± 5 durometer
the last 2 digits are the tensile strength of the material. If the entire spec is preceeded by a "M" then it is measured as MPa. If it is as written it is expressed as PSI. In this case we are talking about a material with 700PSI tensile not 7Mpa (around 1000PSI).
Truth is you cant get much lower on the physical and termpature properties of this material. This is the bottom of the barrel when it comes to Oil and Temperature resistance.
10-19-04, 05:58 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by edv
I think I'm gonna take Kung Stew's advice and go with the Goodyear rubber hose.
BTW I am not in a hurry b ecause it's snowing outside...I have camera, laptop and wireless Internet under the hood...if any of you guys need pics along the way of where things go....lemme know.
edv
BTW I am not in a hurry b ecause it's snowing outside...I have camera, laptop and wireless Internet under the hood...if any of you guys need pics along the way of where things go....lemme know.
edv
I've got a table setup in my garage and do the same thing when I'm having a problem.
10-19-04, 06:54 PM
#46
Originally Posted by High Temp Silicone
the last 2 digits are the tensile strength of the material. If the entire spec is preceeded by a "M" then it is measured as MPa. If it is as written it is expressed as PSI. In this case we are talking about a material with 700PSI tensile not 7Mpa (around 1000PSI).
For comparison, what comparable rating would your viton and silicone rate at?
Dave
10-19-04, 08:58 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
I was gonna PM you for the real skinny if you hadn't chimed in already. Thanks for the clarification - looks like I lost a half-point on the english-metric part.
For comparison, what comparable rating would your viton and silicone rate at?
Dave
For comparison, what comparable rating would your viton and silicone rate at?
Dave
For comparison our Silicone is GE712 and the Viton is FK720
Thats 70 ± 5 duro on hardness and 1200PSI and 2000PSI on the tensile.
Truth is that AA807 has worse oil resistance than silicone.
10-19-04, 11:26 PM
#48
Originally Posted by Section8
Wireless internet and a digital camera are Godsends when working on an FD
I've got a table setup in my garage and do the same thing when I'm having a problem.
I've got a table setup in my garage and do the same thing when I'm having a problem.
10-19-04, 11:36 PM
#49
BOOOYAHHHH!
Kevin,
Remember when 93blackFD accidently shipped you all those solenoid's that were ment for me, and shipped me your fog light switch? lmao.... well i needed those solenoids cause i busted half of mine doing the same job your doing! be carefull!
Remember when 93blackFD accidently shipped you all those solenoid's that were ment for me, and shipped me your fog light switch? lmao.... well i needed those solenoids cause i busted half of mine doing the same job your doing! be carefull!
10-19-04, 11:48 PM
#50
Originally Posted by RX7Wishing
Kevin,
Remember when 93blackFD accidently shipped you all those solenoid's that were ment for me, and shipped me your fog light switch? lmao.... well i needed those solenoids cause i busted half of mine doing the same job your doing! be carefull!
Remember when 93blackFD accidently shipped you all those solenoid's that were ment for me, and shipped me your fog light switch? lmao.... well i needed those solenoids cause i busted half of mine doing the same job your doing! be carefull!
:P