spent awhile searching. looking for people who kept their auto harness in their 5pd
#1
spent awhile searching. looking for people who kept their auto harness in their 5pd
Trying to look for what people did to modify the AUTO harness to work in their auto to manual swap or is it even possible? What I mean is NO manual harness at all. Is this possible? And what changes if any do I have to make to the rats nest?
#2
Rotary for life!
Ahhhh yes... haha. The previous owner 'accidently' done it to my current FD. You get used to it... the only effects it has is jolting under deceleration.. at about 2500rpm it tends to rock back and forth a little... nothing much really, just put the clutch in, and it all goes away.. and if you quickly release the throttle, you feel a sleight jolt.. its all at low rpm that this occurs... nothing major in my opinion... an aftermarket ECU gets rid of it if you do choose to go with the Auto harness now.. and change in the future.
#6
if you plan to use the manual wiring harness as i understand it you should use the dash harness and the engine harness. since you are taking the inititive to use manual in one part might a well use it in as many places as possible for less headache. the last part where the two harness' meet in the firewall needs to be modified.
Connector X-14 Auto trans side
Brown/white- for PRNDSL signal (unused)
Blue/Red- for PRNDSL signal (unused)
Yellow/Green- for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Lite Green/White- for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Red/Blue for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Yellow/Blue- 12v source for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Brn/Black- TO reverse lights (used)
White/yellow- to Hold Button input (unused)
Blue/White- Cruise and Data Link Connector (unused)
Lite Green/Red- Stop Light Switch Input(unused)
Green/black- Speedo input(used)
Blue- Speedo input(used)
The rest listed are the mix of auto and manual harness that work together
blue- 2nd gear switch (unused)
white- 1st gear switch (unused)
blue/green- neutral switch (unused)
yellow- electrical load input signal (used)
Brn-Yellow fuel thermo sensor (used)
Black/red-water thermo switch (used)
Yellow/white -temp gauge (used)
Green-speedo input (used)
Orange- speedo input (used)
Black-ground for cluster needs to be grounded
yellow/red-reverse light power(used)
green/yellow- reverse light out(used)
lite/green-neutral switch (not used)
Connector x-05 (large blue auto side)
Black/blue-ground (used)
Blue-shift solenoid 3 (not used)
Brown-shift solenoid 4 (not used)
Yellow- shift solenoid 5 (not used)
Green-shift solenoid 6 (not used)
Yellow/red-shift solenoid #1 (not used)
Black(thin) water thermoswitch for auto (not used)
black/green-cooalnt fan module input (used)
white/blue-coolant fan module (used)
the following five wire colors are all inputs for the auto trans so they are not used
Grren/white
Green/red
Green/yellow
Red/white
Blue/green
Brn/White-Map sensor (used)
Black/lite green- Map sensor (used)
Heavy gauge black-ground (needs to be grounded)
the other wires come from the manual side small blue connector
black/blue-air pump relay(used)
yellow-first gear (not used)
red-2nd gear (not used)
Brown-neutral switch (not used)
older post from cover8 that saved.
anyway its much easier to go the complete automatic route.
Connector X-14 Auto trans side
Brown/white- for PRNDSL signal (unused)
Blue/Red- for PRNDSL signal (unused)
Yellow/Green- for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Lite Green/White- for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Red/Blue for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Yellow/Blue- 12v source for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Brn/Black- TO reverse lights (used)
White/yellow- to Hold Button input (unused)
Blue/White- Cruise and Data Link Connector (unused)
Lite Green/Red- Stop Light Switch Input(unused)
Green/black- Speedo input(used)
Blue- Speedo input(used)
The rest listed are the mix of auto and manual harness that work together
blue- 2nd gear switch (unused)
white- 1st gear switch (unused)
blue/green- neutral switch (unused)
yellow- electrical load input signal (used)
Brn-Yellow fuel thermo sensor (used)
Black/red-water thermo switch (used)
Yellow/white -temp gauge (used)
Green-speedo input (used)
Orange- speedo input (used)
Black-ground for cluster needs to be grounded
yellow/red-reverse light power(used)
green/yellow- reverse light out(used)
lite/green-neutral switch (not used)
Connector x-05 (large blue auto side)
Black/blue-ground (used)
Blue-shift solenoid 3 (not used)
Brown-shift solenoid 4 (not used)
Yellow- shift solenoid 5 (not used)
Green-shift solenoid 6 (not used)
Yellow/red-shift solenoid #1 (not used)
Black(thin) water thermoswitch for auto (not used)
black/green-cooalnt fan module input (used)
white/blue-coolant fan module (used)
the following five wire colors are all inputs for the auto trans so they are not used
Grren/white
Green/red
Green/yellow
Red/white
Blue/green
Brn/White-Map sensor (used)
Black/lite green- Map sensor (used)
Heavy gauge black-ground (needs to be grounded)
the other wires come from the manual side small blue connector
black/blue-air pump relay(used)
yellow-first gear (not used)
red-2nd gear (not used)
Brown-neutral switch (not used)
older post from cover8 that saved.
anyway its much easier to go the complete automatic route.
#7
Eh
iTrader: (56)
So you can use the stock auto harness and only replace the wiring going to the transmission? Of course considering you are using the stock auto in dash harness as well? What are the side affects of this. As I dont want to pull the dash in my personal car if I dont have to. All info will be appreciated.
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#8
32psi+
iTrader: (42)
From what I have gathered it is much easier to use the automatic harness and just splice the transmission harness part with a manual one. I may be wrong.
Edit: I do not want to buy a dash harness. I know the manual engine harness alone is $750 new, and the automatic is $800. I can't imagine buying a manual dash harness also.
Edit: I do not want to buy a dash harness. I know the manual engine harness alone is $750 new, and the automatic is $800. I can't imagine buying a manual dash harness also.
Last edited by Copeland; 09-18-07 at 09:30 PM.
#10
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I don't have the answer since my mechanic did the install and not me, but i kept the auto harness, but i remember he bent some metal tube that used to go to the auto tranny, he thought it will help with the vacuum. Don't know what it is,but it's on the passenger side,near the lim. Car has no issues, everything works normal. GL with the install, it can be done.
#11
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I used the auto harness and only had to jumper the neutral switch (on the tranny pigtail) and splice in the backup lights. I had a pfc ecu so can't comment on how the stock ecu would react, i.e., check engine light, just won't go, etc. But with the pfc is wasn't an issue at all. If it wasn't needed I simply left it unconnected. I went with a simplified vacuum system and emmissions elimination as well as accelerated warmup removal. None of this was an issue.
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streetlegal?
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03-17-22 02:46 PM