Trying to look for what people did to modify the AUTO harness to work in their auto to manual swap or is it even possible? What I mean is NO manual harness at all. Is this possible? And what changes if any do I have to make to the rats nest?

 

Ahhhh yes... haha. The previous owner 'accidently' done it to my current FD. You get used to it... the only effects it has is jolting under deceleration.. at about 2500rpm it tends to rock back and forth a little... nothing much really, just put the clutch in, and it all goes away.. and if you quickly release the throttle, you feel a sleight jolt.. its all at low rpm that this occurs... nothing major in my opinion... an aftermarket ECU gets rid of it if you do choose to go with the Auto harness now.. and change in the future.

 

I have done three of my automatic cars using the auto harness. You will need a part of the manual harness that goes down to the transmission.

The auto harness and that small part of the manual harness is all you need,.

later

 

what do i do with the extra crap in the rats nest?

 

I am doing a auto to 5 speed conversion in my car also. I am currently confused on how you wire the manual part of the harness to the automatic harness. I can see you will probably have a few extra wires if you do it that way. Do we just seal them up and forget about them?

 

if you plan to use the manual wiring harness as i understand it you should use the dash harness and the engine harness. since you are taking the inititive to use manual in one part might a well use it in as many places as possible for less headache. the last part where the two harness' meet in the firewall needs to be modified.


Connector X-14 Auto trans side

Brown/white- for PRNDSL signal (unused)
Blue/Red- for PRNDSL signal (unused)
Yellow/Green- for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Lite Green/White- for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Red/Blue for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Yellow/Blue- 12v source for PRNDSL signal(unused)
Brn/Black- TO reverse lights (used)
White/yellow- to Hold Button input (unused)
Blue/White- Cruise and Data Link Connector (unused)
Lite Green/Red- Stop Light Switch Input(unused)
Green/black- Speedo input(used)
Blue- Speedo input(used)

The rest listed are the mix of auto and manual harness that work together

blue- 2nd gear switch (unused)
white- 1st gear switch (unused)
blue/green- neutral switch (unused)
yellow- electrical load input signal (used)
Brn-Yellow fuel thermo sensor (used)
Black/red-water thermo switch (used)
Yellow/white -temp gauge (used)
Green-speedo input (used)
Orange- speedo input (used)
Black-ground for cluster needs to be grounded
yellow/red-reverse light power(used)
green/yellow- reverse light out(used)
lite/green-neutral switch (not used)

Connector x-05 (large blue auto side)

Black/blue-ground (used)
Blue-shift solenoid 3 (not used)
Brown-shift solenoid 4 (not used)
Yellow- shift solenoid 5 (not used)
Green-shift solenoid 6 (not used)
Yellow/red-shift solenoid #1 (not used)
Black(thin) water thermoswitch for auto (not used)
black/green-cooalnt fan module input (used)
white/blue-coolant fan module (used)
the following five wire colors are all inputs for the auto trans so they are not used
Grren/white
Green/red
Green/yellow
Red/white
Blue/green
Brn/White-Map sensor (used)
Black/lite green- Map sensor (used)
Heavy gauge black-ground (needs to be grounded)

the other wires come from the manual side small blue connector

black/blue-air pump relay(used)
yellow-first gear (not used)
red-2nd gear (not used)
Brown-neutral switch (not used)

older post from cover8 that saved.

anyway its much easier to go the complete automatic route.

 

So you can use the stock auto harness and only replace the wiring going to the transmission? Of course considering you are using the stock auto in dash harness as well? What are the side affects of this. As I dont want to pull the dash in my personal car if I dont have to. All info will be appreciated.

 

From what I have gathered it is much easier to use the automatic harness and just splice the transmission harness part with a manual one. I may be wrong.

Edit: I do not want to buy a dash harness. I know the manual engine harness alone is $750 new, and the automatic is $800. I can't imagine buying a manual dash harness also.

 

Any answers out there. I will be dropping the engine in this weekend or first of next week. I really dont want to pull the dash or repin the connectors.

 

I don't have the answer since my mechanic did the install and not me, but i kept the auto harness, but i remember he bent some metal tube that used to go to the auto tranny, he thought it will help with the vacuum. Don't know what it is,but it's on the passenger side,near the lim. Car has no issues, everything works normal. GL with the install, it can be done.

 

I used the auto harness and only had to jumper the neutral switch (on the tranny pigtail) and splice in the backup lights. I had a pfc ecu so can't comment on how the stock ecu would react, i.e., check engine light, just won't go, etc. But with the pfc is wasn't an issue at all. If it wasn't needed I simply left it unconnected. I went with a simplified vacuum system and emmissions elimination as well as accelerated warmup removal. None of this was an issue.

 

I just wanted to know if there were any driveability issues. My engine will basically have a huge turbo, injectors, ignition and a few other things attached Its as simple as it gets.

 

make sure u bring over the vehicle speed sensor from the automatic tranny. it will go right in..