Spark plug wire installation help
#1
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Spark plug wire installation help
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So I'm asking here for some help on the level of difficulty of installing new Mazda factory spark plug wires.
Now the spark plugs were easy to install, now how is that compared to installing the wires? Any tips or secrets to make the process easier?
Where is the coil located at and it just a simple unplug used ones and plug on new ones?
Thanks for any help.....
-Dan
So I'm asking here for some help on the level of difficulty of installing new Mazda factory spark plug wires.
Now the spark plugs were easy to install, now how is that compared to installing the wires? Any tips or secrets to make the process easier?
Where is the coil located at and it just a simple unplug used ones and plug on new ones?
Thanks for any help.....
-Dan
#2
Rotary Freak
You must remove the intake and throttle body to get the wires off. then all is simple . The front wire is front rotor top or trailing the two wires together are leading ( lower ) ether wire to a rotor ( one coil ) , the back or last wire is rear rotor ( top ) trailing. Get the best wires you can so you do not have to do it often .
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Haha yeah I was wondering why I would have to remove the intake for.
The elbow is fine, but I would have to also remove the throttle body? I haven't done that yet but it all looks like a few nuts/bolts to get it off.........
The new wires that I'm using are Mazda factory so that should last me for a little while. How long of a job do you think this will take?
Thanks man.
-Dan
The elbow is fine, but I would have to also remove the throttle body? I haven't done that yet but it all looks like a few nuts/bolts to get it off.........
The new wires that I'm using are Mazda factory so that should last me for a little while. How long of a job do you think this will take?
Thanks man.
-Dan
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
dude - it is easy just remove the intake to the TB, the TB, and replace the wires. Be careful removing them from the coil as the bottom one of the ones that are stacked on top of one another (middle two) was baked on and the metal coupling stayed on the coil. Thought I was not going to be able to remove the piece and would have to remove the entire coil. After buying some new needle nose plyers I was able to get it out.
Make sure you add electrical grease when you replace them.
Make sure you add electrical grease when you replace them.
#6
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Where exactly do I use the electical grease on?
Since we all know that the Rex generate a ton of heat, I'm assuming that the grease will help produce electricity and make it easier for it to pull off next time it needs to be changed?
Thanks again.
-Dan
Since we all know that the Rex generate a ton of heat, I'm assuming that the grease will help produce electricity and make it easier for it to pull off next time it needs to be changed?
Thanks again.
-Dan
#7
don't race, don't need to
Elecrtical grease (or more properly di-electric grease) is used to create a barier to the high spark potential jumping the air gap and bleeding a little voltage to ground. It also reduces a phenomenon called discharge corona, wherein sharp areas like the backsides of a plug insert will literally spray electrons, reducing the available current to the plugs. It does help with removal again, but often has evaporated by the time you go after plug wires again. Anywho, I typically will grease the area just behind and slightly touching the electrode. Greasing the electrode itself is not that useful, and of course, can interfere with contact if used in huge amounts. So just run a nice little bead around the backside of the electrode, smooth it a little with the finger, and pop it in. I've not done this to my FD yet, but in my other cars it make a little difference. I'd say it felt like a little less power than a typical oil change yielded. Anyway, that's what the hell I do know, but what the hell do I know?
huh?
huh?
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#8
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Originally posted by spurvo
Elecrtical grease (or more properly di-electric grease) is used to create a barier to the high spark potential jumping the air gap and bleeding a little voltage to ground. It also reduces a phenomenon called discharge corona, wherein sharp areas like the backsides of a plug insert will literally spray electrons, reducing the available current to the plugs. It does help with removal again, but often has evaporated by the time you go after plug wires again. Anywho, I typically will grease the area just behind and slightly touching the electrode. Greasing the electrode itself is not that useful, and of course, can interfere with contact if used in huge amounts. So just run a nice little bead around the backside of the electrode, smooth it a little with the finger, and pop it in. I've not done this to my FD yet, but in my other cars it make a little difference. I'd say it felt like a little less power than a typical oil change yielded. Anyway, that's what the hell I do know, but what the hell do I know?
huh?
Elecrtical grease (or more properly di-electric grease) is used to create a barier to the high spark potential jumping the air gap and bleeding a little voltage to ground. It also reduces a phenomenon called discharge corona, wherein sharp areas like the backsides of a plug insert will literally spray electrons, reducing the available current to the plugs. It does help with removal again, but often has evaporated by the time you go after plug wires again. Anywho, I typically will grease the area just behind and slightly touching the electrode. Greasing the electrode itself is not that useful, and of course, can interfere with contact if used in huge amounts. So just run a nice little bead around the backside of the electrode, smooth it a little with the finger, and pop it in. I've not done this to my FD yet, but in my other cars it make a little difference. I'd say it felt like a little less power than a typical oil change yielded. Anyway, that's what the hell I do know, but what the hell do I know?
huh?
Dude!! That is exactly why I'm replacing my wires in the first place. The top wire right under the throttle cable shoots out sparks of lightening of something and got me worried that it was a bad wire so I ordered a whole new set.
When I start up in the cold mornings now that wire will shoot out sparks like mad but goes away when the car gets warmed up. I was told not to stick my finger in there and if I were to get it caught in the spark it'll be extremely painful as sends like 10,000 volts thru my body.
I also have been getting very poor gas mileage recently also probably due to that damn wire.
Thanks for the help.
-Dan
#9
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I recommend using stock wires. My Taylor spiro-pros failed on me after about a year, and I've heard of issues with the Jacobs wires. Haven't heard much about MSDs, but Davey-o of KDR told me to stick with the stock wires.
While you're under there, check around for loose/kinked hoses, and maybe pull off a few check valves to make sure they're working correctly.
While you're under there, check around for loose/kinked hoses, and maybe pull off a few check valves to make sure they're working correctly.
#10
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Click the following link:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/i...n_install.html
Follow these directions exactly (I printed them and took them in the garage with me) and you will have no problem changing your wires.
Don't follow these directions and you will have many headaches. Trust me I learned the hard way the first time.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/i...n_install.html
Follow these directions exactly (I printed them and took them in the garage with me) and you will have no problem changing your wires.
Don't follow these directions and you will have many headaches. Trust me I learned the hard way the first time.
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally posted by spurvo
Elecrtical grease (or more properly di-electric grease) is used to create a barier to the high spark potential jumping the air gap and bleeding a little voltage to ground. It also reduces a phenomenon called discharge corona, wherein sharp areas like the backsides of a plug insert will literally spray electrons, reducing the available current to the plugs. It does help with removal again, but often has evaporated by the time you go after plug wires again. Anywho, I typically will grease the area just behind and slightly touching the electrode. Greasing the electrode itself is not that useful, and of course, can interfere with contact if used in huge amounts. So just run a nice little bead around the backside of the electrode, smooth it a little with the finger, and pop it in. I've not done this to my FD yet, but in my other cars it make a little difference. I'd say it felt like a little less power than a typical oil change yielded. Anyway, that's what the hell I do know, but what the hell do I know?
huh?
Elecrtical grease (or more properly di-electric grease) is used to create a barier to the high spark potential jumping the air gap and bleeding a little voltage to ground. It also reduces a phenomenon called discharge corona, wherein sharp areas like the backsides of a plug insert will literally spray electrons, reducing the available current to the plugs. It does help with removal again, but often has evaporated by the time you go after plug wires again. Anywho, I typically will grease the area just behind and slightly touching the electrode. Greasing the electrode itself is not that useful, and of course, can interfere with contact if used in huge amounts. So just run a nice little bead around the backside of the electrode, smooth it a little with the finger, and pop it in. I've not done this to my FD yet, but in my other cars it make a little difference. I'd say it felt like a little less power than a typical oil change yielded. Anyway, that's what the hell I do know, but what the hell do I know?
huh?
Discharge corona? I've only had that happen to me after a long night in Mexico...
In English I thing you were trying to say it not only helps with removal albeit slightly, but it also helps with current connectivity.
Sounds like you know your stuff. Anyway to be clear.. by running a bead on the backside of the electrode..
where is that exactly?
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