Something's very wrong...
#28
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Yep, it was parked on the street overnight, sounds exactly like Hyperite and DaveW are talking about. I don't have the money to get it fixed right now, so should I just let the car sit, or start it up daily, or can I just drive it like I used to? Will the problem eventually get worse and blow the seal completely?
#29
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I wouldn't drive it around.. It will just make things worse...
Don't start it at all.. I would just disconnect the battery and forget about it untill you have enough money to pull it and get it rebuilt...
EDIT: Alright i didn't completely read all of your post.. I thought it was a cracked apex or corner seal..
If it's a coolant leak and it doesn't smoke that bad at start up and really is not drinking a lot ( Buzzer keeps coming on every hour) i would say it is safe to drive.. I would keep a very good eye on the level though.. Check it every time you park your car. You don't want to overheat and make things even worse for the rebuild. Yes overtime it will get worse.. Eventually you will go to start your car one day and have clouds of white smoke coming out or even suddenly driving down the road.. Once it gets to this point i would park it until rebuild..
Don't start it at all.. I would just disconnect the battery and forget about it untill you have enough money to pull it and get it rebuilt...
EDIT: Alright i didn't completely read all of your post.. I thought it was a cracked apex or corner seal..
If it's a coolant leak and it doesn't smoke that bad at start up and really is not drinking a lot ( Buzzer keeps coming on every hour) i would say it is safe to drive.. I would keep a very good eye on the level though.. Check it every time you park your car. You don't want to overheat and make things even worse for the rebuild. Yes overtime it will get worse.. Eventually you will go to start your car one day and have clouds of white smoke coming out or even suddenly driving down the road.. Once it gets to this point i would park it until rebuild..
Last edited by SAiamNE; 07-14-05 at 03:33 PM.
#30
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Originally Posted by enigma662
Yep, it was parked on the street overnight, sounds exactly like Hyperite and DaveW are talking about. I don't have the money to get it fixed right now, so should I just let the car sit, or start it up daily, or can I just drive it like I used to? Will the problem eventually get worse and blow the seal completely?
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Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
I didn't have the money for a rebuild when I bought my car with a blown coolant seal. I did the blockweld and drove it for a shade over a year boosting at normal levels. It would have lasted allot longer if I had stayed outta the boost. You can save money allot faster if your not making bike payments too.
#33
Racecar - Formula 2000
Originally Posted by enigma662
What is blockweld, and what does it entail to use it? I really don't feel like taking the whole engine apart again, I had everything off it a month ago for the LIM job, I'd much rather save for a rebuild.
Seems like it would be the way for you to go.
Good luck!
#34
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I wouldn't do the blockweld, you'll just gunk up other stuff in the process.
I've been driving mine for about a year and a half with a "blown" coolant seal. Other than adding coolant (water ) every couple of times I drive it, and it's a bit hard to start, it runs fine... never left me stranded. Just get a big AST, make sure all your hoses are good, and wait for nature to take its course.
But then again, there are many who say I've had exceptional "luck" with my car. 80K original motor and turbos, tuned myself, lots of mods, flog the **** out of it.
I've been driving mine for about a year and a half with a "blown" coolant seal. Other than adding coolant (water ) every couple of times I drive it, and it's a bit hard to start, it runs fine... never left me stranded. Just get a big AST, make sure all your hoses are good, and wait for nature to take its course.
But then again, there are many who say I've had exceptional "luck" with my car. 80K original motor and turbos, tuned myself, lots of mods, flog the **** out of it.
#35
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Originally Posted by Hyperite
I wouldn't do the blockweld, you'll just gunk up other stuff in the process.
I've been driving mine for about a year and a half with a "blown" coolant seal. Other than adding coolant (water ) every couple of times I drive it, and it's a bit hard to start, it runs fine... never left me stranded. Just get a big AST, make sure all your hoses are good, and wait for nature to take its course.
But then again, there are many who say I've had exceptional "luck" with my car. 80K original motor and turbos, tuned myself, lots of mods, flog the **** out of it.
I've been driving mine for about a year and a half with a "blown" coolant seal. Other than adding coolant (water ) every couple of times I drive it, and it's a bit hard to start, it runs fine... never left me stranded. Just get a big AST, make sure all your hoses are good, and wait for nature to take its course.
But then again, there are many who say I've had exceptional "luck" with my car. 80K original motor and turbos, tuned myself, lots of mods, flog the **** out of it.
#36
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Originally Posted by Hyperite
I wouldn't do the blockweld, you'll just gunk up other stuff in the process.
Originally Posted by Hyperite
I've been driving mine for about a year and a half with a "blown" coolant seal. Other than adding coolant (water ) every couple of times I drive it, and it's a bit hard to start, it runs fine... never left me stranded. Just get a big AST, make sure all your hoses are good, and wait for nature to take its course.
Originally Posted by Hyperite
But then again, there are many who say I've had exceptional "luck" with my car. 80K original motor and turbos, tuned myself, lots of mods, flog the **** out of it.
#37
Racecar - Formula 2000
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Still running the same coolant system that I blok weld treated and nothing clogged here.
The history of posts on this subject indicates that a large % of the folks that have done this AND HAVE COMPLETED ALL OF THE RECOMMENDED STEPS have had success.
#38
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Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
You've done this so you know it will gunk up your system. ? ? ?
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Yours seems to be the exception not the general rule. The way his is going if he doesn't park it he'll overheat it and warp things if he doesn't stop the leak.
Originally Posted by CantGoStraight
Still running the same coolant system that I blok weld treated and nothing clogged here.
Last edited by Hyperite; 07-15-05 at 11:15 AM.
#39
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Originally Posted by Hyperite
I haven't done it (obviously) but i've seen the aftermath of a block weld treatment after the engine finally blew: clogged heater core, disgusting radiator, and grit-filled overflow tank.
Clearly I'm an exceptional RX-7 owner But yeah, his sounds to be going downhill rather quickly, in which case I wouldn't expect block weld to be a viable solution anyway.
How long ago did you do it?
Clearly I'm an exceptional RX-7 owner But yeah, his sounds to be going downhill rather quickly, in which case I wouldn't expect block weld to be a viable solution anyway.
How long ago did you do it?
I'm not saying this is a proper fix or something that should be done, there are lots of variables that can affect the out come of this procedure. It's a baind aid and just a way to buy time (put away funds, prepare for the rebuild, swap, whatever) It was a pain in the butt to clear out the system of the old coolant, flush, add degreaser, flush, flush, flus and flush some more. So is it something I recomend ? Sure unless you'd just rather let it sit till everything is in place. Is that a better alternative, yes if you plann on beating the crap out of the car in this condition you'll only make thing worse/more expensive. It's his car and his perogative, this is just a option for him to choose or not. Jack
Last edited by CantGoStraight; 07-15-05 at 11:33 AM. Reason: spellin
#40
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Block weld treatment: www.rotaryresurrection.com ---> tech ---> coolant seal fix
The reason you have rough running on startup is because the engine is flooding itself with coolant in one chamber and it takes a few rotations to push it out of the way and allow combustion to begin.
I know this was edited, but this is the worst advice you can give for a coolant seal motor. Either continue to start it at least once a week, or drain ALL the coolant from the radiator AND block, crank it for many seconds with the plugs out to expel any puddled up coolant, inject some atf or motor oil into the plug holes, crank it repeatedly to cover all surfaces, and store it that way.
Why, you ask? Read about halfway down the page: www.rotaryresurrection.com ---> tech ---> internal engine damage
The reason you have rough running on startup is because the engine is flooding itself with coolant in one chamber and it takes a few rotations to push it out of the way and allow combustion to begin.
I wouldn't drive it around.. It will just make things worse...
Don't start it at all.. I would just disconnect the battery and forget about it untill you have enough money to pull it and get it rebuilt...
Don't start it at all.. I would just disconnect the battery and forget about it untill you have enough money to pull it and get it rebuilt...
Why, you ask? Read about halfway down the page: www.rotaryresurrection.com ---> tech ---> internal engine damage
#41
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Originally Posted by enigma662
Pulled right over, shut it down, kept the fans on, opened the hood, etc. Waited a bit, got a thick rag, opened the coolant cap, stepped back, and boooooosh lol. Sprayed about two feet in the air.
Last edited by Kento; 07-15-05 at 03:09 PM.
#42
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Why, you ask? Read about halfway down the page: www.rotaryresurrection.com ---> tech ---> internal engine damage
#43
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Originally Posted by Kento
Um...have you ever seen the warning label on the coolant system caps that says "DO NOT OPEN WHEN HOT"? No offense, but was there a reason why you decided to empty out half the coolant system on your engine compartment?
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