Ok, can you give a little background?

When you got the car, what did it have on it and did it have this problem? If the problem wasn't there when you got the car, when did it start?

 

I have owned the car for a year and a half. about 4 months ago i put the cat back on for the mot emision tests. after picking it up the problem started.
so i took the cat back of thinking it was clogged and also put on a new back box and mid-pipe, the downpipe was already changed.

I already wanted to do a full non-sequential so i did it hopeing the problem would go away with the sequential parts gone.
also put on the PFC at the same time and removed the double throttle, airpump and aircon.
The waste gate was ported too.
after the dyno the plugs and leads were changed.

the only way to describe the problem is that when you see the boost gauge reading boost you expect to accelarate faster. But it just carrys on accellerateing slowly whilst still being smooth. the exhaust gets louder from the rear. and get a few back fires when i slow down.

 

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The car starts and runs fine,, good compression , but a lack of massive power,,,,(and u make good boost),,, mmmmmmmm my best effort is still that the ingintion timming is way out,,, have you checked the 2 crank sensors,,, make sure plugs are clean, u might want to dig testing meter out and check wires end to end.
(little story for you,,, when i rebuilt my engine i somehow pluged the 2 sensors on the wrong way round the car started and run fine but,,,when you tried driving it,, had simmilar problems to yours,,,,,really low power output),,
have you checked the spark output on all the plug leads?

 

Really sounds like a clutch to me

 

ok so today i have tested

Water, fuel and air thermosensors
secondary injector resistance
crank angle sensors
fuel pump relay

1-2 switch is not working properly so i wired it so it thinks its in 3rd or above.

when i pull away in first with handbrake on as hard as it can be the clutch dosnt slip then.

could a secondary injector be blocked?

 

Just FYI, clutches begin to slip in the higher gears first (i.e. 5, 4, 3 and on down). If your clutch got to the point it was slipping in first, the friction material would probably just break off.

Just because it didn't slip with that test doesn't mean it's not failing. Do the test I mentioned a few messages back in this thread.

 

When you are in 3rd out of boost and you put your foot down you dont hear the clutch slipping like you would on a car with a nackered clutch going up hill. so it is very hard to tell. at first i just dismissed the clutch but am slowly thinking it is a posiblity.

how hard and expensive are they to change????

 

You really don't hear anything when the cluch is slipping. Basically what you see if your boost & rpms climbing (and hearing the engine rev) but the car just doesn't accelerate. There is no clunking or thumbing at all.

They aren't any harder than anything else on the car. A new clutch will run you anywhere around $400-600 USD. Having someone install it may cost around $300-400 USD.

I'm not saying the clutch is the problem, but it something that should be looked at.

 

If you don't leave a little free play in the clutch then it will slip.

 

I find it hard to believe that the clutch could be slipping enough to lose over 100HP. That energy would be converted into heat at the clutch disk, and you would certainly see smoke and smell it burning!

Therefore, IMO, I think the problem lies elsewhere.

 

im stuck with what to do
Today i even rang a RX specialist in the UK who has been in some mags.
Told him the problem and whats been done and he still kept on saying that my vacuum lines would be the cause.I did tell him it was non- sequential and making full boost. So it looks like im on my own in the UK.

Iv taken the pill out to limit to 7 psi but its still the same. could it be the secondary injectors not running correctly? or would the car not rev over 3000 with out them?

 

Maybe the boost gauge is bad and you're really making as much boost as you think.

 

Have you double checked your rods to see that they are connected and the flaps are indeed being held as they should in the turbo assembly7

 

You know, if your double throttle control is not working you only get 5 lbs of boost.

 

Full non-sequential so only got the waste gate actuator. double throttle has been removed after problem occured. And PFC is reading .5 bar when boost gauge is reading 7psi with pill removed.