In brief
Car went for its MOT 4 months back. The cat was put back on for the emissions test. On the way home i noticed it would not accelarate like it used to. Bosst comes at about 13 psi and stays the whole time. There is no stutter. It just feels like the boost is not getting there.
Since this problem i have replaced

Full exhaust and mid pipe and downpipe
apexi PFC and commander
Full non- sequential with ported wastegate
new plugs and leads
new fuel fillter
new manifold gasgets

have tested the coils they are within what the book says
same with the o2 sensor and boost sensor

It has been on the dyno and came up with 125fbhp

Have tried a compression test and think they are all about 600 give or take 50.
the boost reading is taken from the uim so therefor it carnt be a boost presure problem can it?

i am tearing my hair out trying to fix it.
There is no one within 100 miles of me with the slightest knowledge of the wankel.

You lot are my last hope. please help

 

So you hear the engine revving but you don't seem to be producing any power?

You might check to see if your clutch is slipping.

 

no sorry should have mentioned its not the clutch.

 

125hp ?

 

yes sorry 125hp at engine

also with engine not running the pfc commander is displaying -35mmhg even with the boost sensor pipe off

 

That HAS to be an ignition problem. Keep searching... you will find it.

 

Yes, most definately an ignition problem. Surely you didnt mix up the plug wires at plugs or coils ?

Or one of the coils failed.

 

How do you know it's not the clutch? Is it the stock clutch? They typically begin to slip and fail a little over 300rwhp (which you would be at with a full exhaust, ECU and 13 PSI).

 

it doesnt sound like the clutch. the man who did the dyno who wasnt stupid didnt think it was the clutch. the plugs and leads were only replaced after the problem.
the coils test ok off the car but how can you test under load.
What about the ignitor module???
thanks for the help so far

 

is there a way to check engine timing on these engines,,,that sounds like an ignition timing problem to me... sounds like the spark is firing way to early or way to late,,,, so your getting poor power from your combustion,,
heres one for you,,,,check the 2 timming sensors at the front pulley,,,maybe one is bent or plug has come loose or something

 

What you should get is a graph of the dyno run with it showing your A/F. Basically, you are working in the dark right now so something like that will help determine what's happending with the car.

BTW, if the clutch is slipping, you'll make power/boost, but it won't be able to transfer it to the wheels (which from your original description, could be a possibility). An easy test is to get on the highway in 4th or 5th gear about 3500 rpms; stomp on the gas and watch your boost and rpms (as well as listen to the engine). If you hear the engine revving up, see the boost and rpms going up but you don't feel the car accelerating very well, it's most likely the clutch (or some other transmission problem). This would also show on the dyno is most runs are usually done in 4th gear.

 

this is the graph i got from dyno

 

As if you were only running on 1 rotor and 1 turbo.
Double check your ignition.

 

i too think its ignition but all 4 spark plugs are sparking. if both trailing and leading on either rotor are unpluged together the car hardly idles. so it is using both rotors.!!! otherwise it idles perfect for a 12 year old car.
It all runs fine untill it boosts and then it just accellerates like there is no boost!
Is there any possibility that the apex seals are chipped or blown.

 

also the workshop manual mentioned the oil metering pump a possible cause of lack of power????

 

If there is a an apex seal problem, you'll see it with a compression test.

 

well the compresion test i did was not down on either rotor.
I have really run out of things to test without just keep buying new sensors or coils!!!

 

hi mate,,, ill tell you its not the oil metering pump mate,, i had an oil metering pump fail, it just puts the car into limp mode and that wouldnt let you boost at all. (also makes the car jump badly like its misfiring).

 

sorry to ask mate,,,but have you done an ECU check,,,to see if the ECU is throwing any error codes?

 

Check the ECU for codes (swap in a stocker and stay outta heavy boost).

O2 sensor is not read during heavy boost, not an issue.

Check the air intake thermosensor, fuel ts and coolant ts. I don't know if they can cause a 125hp loss, but if they are reading wrong the engine will lose noticeable power.

Dave

 

As it is now non sequential most off the valves are missing so it would just have too many codes. also when it was standard i did check for codes and there was none.
Will try and check the thremosensors and see what i get. thanks

 

Hold on... So you removed the sequential turbo control solenoids? Which ones do you still have left on the car? There are a few solenoids which will throw the car into limp mode if they aren't connected.

 

from what i was aware that with a PFC you dont need to leave the solinoids in. all have gone apart from the ones in the non sequential diagram.

even so before i did remove any solinoids i had the same problem.

 

Ah, ok, the PFC shouldn't care.

So, has the car ever run right with the PFC?

 

No the car has never run right with PFC but it hasnt really been given the chance to. it was put on while i had the poblem. The car does sound better with it on though.