ok ive searched so before you say anything... i just want to let you know that i spent like 20 mins searching and i didnt find anything

well to get to my point... im installing my downpipe so im here taking off my precat and i start from the top where u find those 4, 14mm bolts. one of the bolts i got off but the nut didnt come off.... the whole damn screw came off but i guess i can just screw that back on. one of the other bolts is about half way off and its a BITCH to get it turning... ive soaked it with wd40 and still not much help. so yeah thats my problem.... anyone recommend anything???? any help would be lovely

thanks


MANNY

 

Heat maybe, but those are a ******* bitch.

You try putting 2 nuts on the stud and using them to back it out?

 

anything else? anyone please?

 

Use a better penetrating oil like Krown penetrating oil or ummmm I can't think of any others but they're usually specific "penetrating oils"...that come in cans like WD-40 does. Soak the area thoroughly and leave it overnight...then soak it again before you work on it. It should help a lot.

 

Answer my question first i got about 15 different ways to take that **** out but im not going to list all of them if you've tryed it before.

 

Did you try PB Blaster, just like everyone else in the 1000+ threads on this subject has recommended?

I'm not really seeing your problem since you said the bolt was turning. Just keep turning it til it comes off. Unless the nut is warped (which I've seen happen) in which case you are stripping the thread. If that's the case you may have to cut it off.

Explain what the problem is clearly so we can help you!

 

sounds like the bolt is re-threading itself on the stud, not good. just keep turning it and one of 2 things will happen:

1 the stud/bolt will finally come off
2 the stud will snap in half

Either way it sounds like you'll have to replace that stud and nut... but you should anyway cause those stock studs/locking nuts are absolute crap...

ps, get used to this happening, the FD loves to snap off bolts and studs every chance it gets!

 

anyone know the size on that stud? ill prob stop by the local parts store and pick one up

 

manny, look closely at the stud that you've removed. The nut seems to be pinched on there which causes it to take the whole stud out. You can't really prevent this from happening, so don't worry about it.


I would advise you to use more WD-40 (or a real-deal penetrating oil as mentioned above), and be sure you're not putting any weird forces on the nut: don't lean on the bar or anything that would cause the threads to strip. Go at it from a few different angles: from above the car, and below the car. Use different wrenches: socket-wrench, box-wrench, etc..

I spent most of a day on my downpipe, I'm probably an average shadetree mechanic. They're just an awkward piece to remove.


edit: size of the nut is listed in the FAQ for 3rd Gen thread, under downpipe.

-s-

 

This is the recommended way to get the stud out. I recommend not using too much force to try to back the stud out. If you break the stud off, it will cause more headaches. This is the problem I had (cant back studs out), which is why I'm using a HKS, even though I bought a Petit downpipe originally. The HKS will fit with the stock studs.

Basically, I have an brand new extra DP that I will eventually get around to selling

 

PB Blaster is the ****. i was working on my school's Formula SAE race car, and we were tearing down the previous year's race engine. come to find out over summer break, someone had pulled the plugs out one night when the car had to be stored outside so no one could take it for a joy ride, and it rained on it. they replaced the plugs the next day and left the engine alone, presumibly so they wouldn't get into trouble. when we went to tear it down about 4 months later (after summer vacation they pulled the old engine because they were upgrading from the CBR600F2 to the CBR600F3), we went to tear it down to see if we could use any of the race parts (forged rods, high comp. pistons, high lift cams), we pulled the head off and there was water sitting in the cylinders! we tipped the block over to drain the water, put a breaker bar on the timing chain pully bolt and the engine wouldn't budge. we propped the engine up, filled each cylinder with about a 1/2 inch of PB Blaster so if it tipped a little the rings would still be soaked, and left it for the night. came back the next day, put the breaker bar back on, one hard shove and the rings popped loose. that stuff rules.

 

The thread diameter is 10mm and the pitch is 1.5mm (I think) and make sure to use at least 10.9 grade. To get the nuts off, soak in PBlaster for a day, get a long piece of iron tube pipe ~1ft from home depot and slide this over a breaker bar and use the leverage to help twist it off, be careful to only apply a perpendicular force or you will snap the stud guaranteed. I used this technique to get off all 4 of my nuts and the two connecting it to the main cat.
Leverage is a beautiful thing!

 

I used a penetrateing oil called Kroil that i put on the night before and then again just before I started working on it. Got all the nuts off (actually one nut and three bolts) without incident. Jack

 

Thanks for all the input and help, I finally got the sucker installed but a few negatives included

That damn stud I was having trouble taking off, finally came off. The bad news is that it messed up the threads of the turbo housing which leaves only 3 studs where the dp and turbo meet causing a exhaust leak. I was thinking of just taking the turbo out, drilling over the same hole with just a tad bit larger drill, then make new threads instead of buying a new housing. Other than that the dp/mp connection is good cept ill be needing a new gasket sometime soon. Well besides all of that... the car feels a little better.... tone is a little deeper too. I'll be getting my rb dual tip once my tax money comes in which will be in about 2 weeks (delayed since there was an error on it... damn feds)

but yeah what do you guys think about the turbo housing situation...


Manny

 

LOL

so true....

 

im back to 10 psi i got a manual boost controller now (thost valve ones u get from home depot ) well im using that for now... cant go wrong only 6 bucks and some change.

my secondary turbo is having some small issues but i already have some good ideas on how to fix. well first of all my cat is clogged... im getting my rb dual tip soon so thatll go away. also im getting too much back pressure which opens the wastegate right away so yeah..... thanks again for the input. time to go to work .......... Super Target!

Manny

 

Make sure when you finally get it out, that you chase the threads in the manifold with an M10x1.5mm tap. I had one that left bits of stud in the threads, and every new bolt I put in there made a mess. Cleaned it out with the tap, and voila it was normal again.

Dave