Well, my boost drops from 10 to 8 at right about 5500 rpm. This is an immediate drop, not a gradual one.

Cheers,

 

That's what i get too. I have PFS PMS ecu set on 10 psi so i don't think that ecu theory really works.

 

I have a PFS also ... hadn't thought about that. It's supposed to duty cycle the wastegate and precontrol solenoids independently ... at least that's what the instructions make it sound like. When I posted that last suggestion I was thinking of how it adds (or subtracts) from the stock ECU’s fuel and timing curves.

Guys, have you hooked a vacuum / pressure gauge on at the various test points? I.E. gone beyond the static testing of solenoids?

More to the point, exactly what testing have you done? Maybe a fresh set of ideas will help. Let me know.

 

The above quote was from Saturday, with the stock ECU. Today, I took it for a spin with the new Power FC ECU. Boost is now 10-7-10, and it holds 10 psi all the way to 7500 rpm. There is absolutely no dip, sag, waver, etc anymore. It's the stock ECU!

Cheers,

 

Can you enlighten me on the test points for the vac. lines so I can test after I do my hose job?
thanks,
Ryker

 

Hmm … this depends on your boost problem. I don’t think that I have enough experience to sum them all up. I would suggest taking your car for a test drive to check out the boost pattern. If it’s good, you’re done. If not, post back. Someone on this forum will give you an idea of what part isn’t working / receiving the correct vac signal. That’s the one to go after.

The testing that I was speaking of earlier was with the rat’s nest out, on each individual solenoid. To be as crazy thorough as me, it takes a bit of obsession and a lot of staring at the colored vac dose diagrams.

Tip for your hose job: The solenoids are fragile … do some searches and see how people deal with them. My first post (in this thread) is a good example … don’t act like my local Mazda dealer and man handle the solenoids!

Tips for your testing:
1)
Get a good pressure / vacuum pump. The only pleasure pump that I could find locally was the Mighty Vac (spelling?). I had to add an external gauge ($20) as the built in one doesn’t register pressure, only vac.

2)
Don’t use your car’s battery for testing the electronic portion of the solenoid. There’s enough current available to do some low voltage arc welding. I would suggest an old 12V DC 500 mili-ampish plug in transformer. Say the one off of your old and dead answering machine / battery charger / cordless phone / calculator / cell phone etc.

James