Since I did not listen to the voice in the back of my head when checking/changing the one-way valves...I now get to delve into the Rat's Nest to replace the Double Throttle solenoid. Figure I might as well replace the OEM hose's whilst I am in there.

I am boning up on some of the sites which cover the vacuum hose replacement procedure. They all mention the 7 Philip head screws that hold the rack and how the slots/head can get buggered easily. Are these "screws" machine screws? Can they be replaced with socket head Allen screws? This would make future removal of the rack much less treacherous.

 

these are philips head screws & yes when u get them out you should replace with a hex head or something easier to work with.

 

IMO, it's easier to undo the fuel lines and then unbolt the entire rack from the engine. There are about 3 bolts holding it down. Once you have the entire piece out, you can change the screws to something easier to get at.

 

I agree with Mahjik's approach.

I also replaced those screws. Use stainless socket head cap screws, the black oxide will rust quickly.

The bolt size is in my writeup on http://www.davidgeesaman.com/

 

Thanks for all the advice and especially the link to your site D-man.

I've got most of the stuff coming and will be ordering all of your "suggested" change-components (you guys sure like spending my my!) before beginning the Japanese puzzle.

Sure wish I had not snapped that DT solenoid nipple off...I could have procrastinated on this job a little longer...but then again, with as brittle as all the hoses and plastic pieces are...maybe this was a blessing in disguise.

 

you could put it off and just disable the DT. Not sure what nipple broke on the solenoid though, because it could cause a vacuum leak I believe.

 

Nope. I am in for penny...in for a pound. Just dropped close to $1500 for just about every doo dad that can be replaced or upgraded (on the "Reliability Mods list). New DT solenoid, VITON tubing, FD thermosensor and Mallory Mazda cooling hose kit hit the house tonight. When the rest of the "stuff" gets here later in the week...the games will begin. I don't really like changing out so much stuff at once as it usually leads to hair pulling troubleshooting later...but when you got to remove the UIM and other stuff for a vac. hose job...I guess you just need to take advantage of the situation.

With all the great tutorials gleaned from this wonderful forum...it should go pretty smoothly...famous last words!

 

Bill, while you have it out, do the "Dave Disney" high-pressure test on all the solenoids. A little high-temp (nickle-based) anti-seize works wonders . . .

If you're in that deep, and esp. if you have no records, I'd replace all the fuel-hoses and FPD as well, esp. since Mazda did a recall/upgrade to those fuel-hoses.

That was my approach, and it's amazing what 10-8-10 feels like . . .

:-) neil

 

Where'd you get the viton hose?

Dave

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#viton-tubing/=d9pin

A) 4mm (3/8") O.D., 3.2mm (1/8") wall thickness, 60A (soft): #5119K48 @ $9.61/ft.

B) 6mm (1/2") O.D., 3.2mm (1/8") wall thickness, 75A (firm): #5119K19 A $12.60/ft.
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I got the heavy 1/8" wall thickness over the 1mm stuff shown at the bottom. It was recommended by the fella that did the "oil bath" tests...thank God there are some **** guys on this site who take the time to do that stuff!

It might be over kill and slightly more difficult to push on to some of the nips/tubes (not to mention...more expensive), but I figured the thick wall stuff would hold up better.

 

In case it wasn't included on the "doo dad" list, consider PM'ing DaleClark for a set of his check valves. IIRC $15 -$20 for a set. They have a viton diaphragm and barbed nipples...though with viton hose you shouldn't have connection issues.

 

Thanks for looking out for me Jim...Dale's CV's should arrive today.

 

I once bought a small length of the 1mm thick hose from McMaster and it's no good at all for this application. The thick wall hose is the way to go, albeit very expensive.

There was once a guy (www.hightempsilicone.com) who made a custom run of Viton thickwall hose in the length/sizes that you get in the hose techniques kit. It was about $350 but still a bargain compared to the McM stuff. It's too bad he's not around any longer.

 

IMzman--while you have the rats nest out you might want to check the other solenoids to make sure they are with-in spec. the last thing you want is to have to go back in there after the DT solenoid being changed out.
Other wise sounds like you have changed just about every possible check valve and what not.

Good luck.

 

Did I mention Dales' check valves should arrive today? They did. Another good guy to deal with...but most of you folks know that already.

Yeah Dave, I figured that 1mil stuff would be too flimsy. The McMaster 1/8" wall works out to around 3.2 mm thick. Wish that fella was still around too...but that's me, a day late and a dollar short. I guess it's the Mazda Gods way of punishing me for not doing it sooner. The VITON may be expensive, but I plan on keeping the car until it falls apart...and I want to do this friggin' vac hose job just once. O.k., you guys can stop laughing now.

FDS...you can bet I'm going to check all those solenoids...I had thought about just replacing them all with new...but that looks like it would be another $500 or so. I guess it will just depend on what condition I find them in when I pull the rack.

 

As I am poking about the rat's nest before removing stuff...I noticed the tubes for what is probably the automatic trans stuff (mine is manual), these tubes are not capped off. Should they be?

 

Nope they can stay there.

 

O.k., just one less thing to do then.

 

Although you'll have to remove the whole rack once, you can set it up so that if you ever have to go back into the solenoid rack again you won't need to mess with the fuel hoses.

The part of the rack that houses the hard fuel lines is actually separate from the rest of the rack, and you can unbolt that from the main solenoid rack. The problem initially is that there is a phillips head screw which is screwed into the bottom of the rack, head down so that it's impossible to get out with the rack in the car. Once you remove the entire rack toss that screw, and you'll be able to unbolt the fuel lines from the solenoid rack easily on any future work in that area.

There are still 2 bolts/screws you can access from the top that bolt the hard fuel lines to the main solenoid rack so it's not like it's just floating around in there unsecured.

Not a huge deal but it saves some time and hassle having to deal with fuel lines when working in the rats nest. I have no idea why they put the screw in upside down, it's one of those things that makes you want to play choke-an-engineer.