kadz

Hi guys

The regulator on my alternator was done 2 weeks ago and voltage read 13.9 to 15.2 and at times stayed at 14.5 . Today, whilst driving it dropped to 11.9 and all of sudden my tachmetre started to work, i was at 80km when full smoke came out from my tach. I switch the car off, disconnected the neg terminal and my main amp fuse was blown, i manage to get a tow to an auto electrician. After taking out the odometre one circuit was burnt.
We replaced main fuse and 3 fuses on driver side panel
Check fuel pump and relay
Alternator
The car swings but dont start.
Deflood the engine (all the above done with odometre removed)
And after 5 hours of trying the electrician appy installs the odometre and it just smoked up(key was on driver seat). I removed the ecu and as i picked it up, i could hear something rattling inside, when took it apart a small black and blue resistor fell off. Luckily i had a spare ecu and after installing it and triple checking everything i started the car and voltage read 17 volts. I remove the alternator plug and started the car again still read 17 volts. The car is at the auto electrian, new regulator and egi fuse will be in tomorrow, i finish repaired the odometre. Is there anything else i need to look at before starting the car again. As if this ecu goes, then i will be in a big fix.
Forgot to mention im offered an alternator from a fc3s will it work , is it better?

Please help
92 type r with 31000km
Full exhaust
Blitz twin intakes
Feed elbow , throttle body and intake.
Upgraded smic
Ecu replaced(92 redom) with 96 model rx7
Twin turbo rhd

kadz

Does anyone have the :
Wiring diagram for cluster and wiring diagram for rhd manual ecu n3a7

rollcoal

iTrader: (5)

ecu might be fried.. i have a cluster and ecu forsale if you need

JM1FD

iTrader: (1)

Yeah...bench test the alternator to make sure it is putting out the correct voltage before installing it in the car and letting more magic smoke out of the electronics.

kadz

Lol , the alternator is sorted , unforunately the car is just parked , no cluster and ecu

Sent cluster in for repairs waiting for quote. Ecu not sure what to do, because power fc are expensive and hks fcon is way out of my league

kadz

Hi guys , the instrument cluster is burnt beyond repairs, i will be going with a full set of aftermarket gauges, does anyone have the instrument cluster wiring diagram, so i will know which wire to connect as i seen the write up on fd3s.net and its not that in detail

kadz

Just an update, tach is on and using a spare ecu as the original ecu is gone in. Problems experience now no transition no secondary boost, narrowed it down to charge solenoid and charge relief valve as when i switch the car off theres a loud woosh that comes from the crv. Going to go poor man non seq till new solenoids and crv arrive. I have only 4 questions :
Can i use the bov on were the crv use to be and cap the original bov area
The pressure chamber keep or delete
The charge control actuator does it have to disconnected
If the charge relief solenoid is faulty will it affect the non sequential conversion

Please advise thanks

kadz

Hi guys
Just an update, the poor man non sequential was done to verify that the secondary turbo was working and i enjoyed that sudden kick from 2800rpm(0.8bar) i went back sequential as that suits the FD best , boost is at 0.4bar no transition (still waiting for new solenoids) but the car has this sputter where if you take off it will go normal no sputter but if i have to go in boost it will start to sputter , back fire and will go like a jet. I cross out :
Tps in spec
Fuel pump in spec
Fuel filter replace
Battery changed
Could be a boost leak
Keep in mind theres no hesitation when cruising or decel
It only sputter if i have go in boost for about 5 secs then goes or when i have to take off.
I will be going through for boost leaks due to having only 0.4bar is there any other thing i should look at

Thanks