Small mod-spree = no start
#1
Cheese
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Small mod-spree = no start
I just performed a few mods to my car, as follows:
PFC
Full (only way) non-seq (prepping for single)
New wiring harness modified for non-seq & PFC
Greddy IC pipes
Efini Y-pipe
Defi BF water/boost/fuel pres gauges in flyrx7 pod (badass)
Slew of new hoses & vac lines
All emissions = gone
Im going to hopefully be going single here in a few months, so I decided to ruin my perfectly good seq setup to see what it felt like, yay for me.
I decided that the only way to go non-seq was to remove all the flapper doors/every thing having to do with the seq setup, and to do that in the cleanest way possible (i.e. removing assoc. wires) I needed to use a PFC too :P
Got it all back together, and Im experiencing the typical flooded rotary symptoms, but none of the cures are working. I read every single thread that "sputter" brought up, because thats what my car is doing. WD40 & starter fluid will get it to run for about 2 seconds, if you can call it running, then it dies again. My fuel pressure gauge says Im getting ~38psi, and the plugs are brand new, along with the wires, even so, Im unsure about spark.
Now, my question isnt how to cure the sputter, that Im sure Ill just get flamed for. What I want to know is this: is there a way to diagnose my problem with the PFC?? I looked through all the sensor data on the commander and I see that they have voltage, and the graphs show activity when I crank the car (if you can understand that), so I *think* everything is in order....well, its obviously not 'cause the car wont start, but still.
So is there a way to diagnose this with the PFC? And does it matter that when I turn the key on, the Ex. Temp warning light comes on? I thought that was the PFC's equivilent of a check engine light? Also, if you have any other suggestions, please feel free to comment. Thanks!
PFC
Full (only way) non-seq (prepping for single)
New wiring harness modified for non-seq & PFC
Greddy IC pipes
Efini Y-pipe
Defi BF water/boost/fuel pres gauges in flyrx7 pod (badass)
Slew of new hoses & vac lines
All emissions = gone
Im going to hopefully be going single here in a few months, so I decided to ruin my perfectly good seq setup to see what it felt like, yay for me.
I decided that the only way to go non-seq was to remove all the flapper doors/every thing having to do with the seq setup, and to do that in the cleanest way possible (i.e. removing assoc. wires) I needed to use a PFC too :P
Got it all back together, and Im experiencing the typical flooded rotary symptoms, but none of the cures are working. I read every single thread that "sputter" brought up, because thats what my car is doing. WD40 & starter fluid will get it to run for about 2 seconds, if you can call it running, then it dies again. My fuel pressure gauge says Im getting ~38psi, and the plugs are brand new, along with the wires, even so, Im unsure about spark.
Now, my question isnt how to cure the sputter, that Im sure Ill just get flamed for. What I want to know is this: is there a way to diagnose my problem with the PFC?? I looked through all the sensor data on the commander and I see that they have voltage, and the graphs show activity when I crank the car (if you can understand that), so I *think* everything is in order....well, its obviously not 'cause the car wont start, but still.
So is there a way to diagnose this with the PFC? And does it matter that when I turn the key on, the Ex. Temp warning light comes on? I thought that was the PFC's equivilent of a check engine light? Also, if you have any other suggestions, please feel free to comment. Thanks!
#3
Cheese
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I got the PFC from RX7Store.net, preprogrammed for the non-seq. Or thats what I told them I wanted programmed onto it when I bought it, which they said they did.
#5
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Maybe its related to the wiring harness? If you removed a bunch of wires you might have clipped a wrong wire or something. Just a thought.
Last edited by SidewaysR1; 06-25-06 at 10:14 AM.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Maximum
Also check that you have your primary injectors plugged in correctly. Sounds similar to the symptoms I had when I screwed that up.
Also PFC related:
I checked my sensor information out, and they all show 4.99v (?). Another graph that Im pretty sure had to do with injectors all had 100's in it
100 | 100 | 100 | 100 | .....
100 | 100 | 100 | 100 | .....
100 | 100 | 100 | 100 | .....
100 | 100 | 100 | 100 | .....
100 | 100 | 100 | 100 | .....
Is that correct?
Thanks!
And yes, its possible that I cut a wrong wire, but unlikely, except for one. I ended up with an extra plug (blue) that goes under the upper intake, and took out a wire that I think I needed (goes to what looks like a temp probe), would that cause the problem? Because It wouldnt be too much trouble to find out where those go in the ECU plugs, and rewire them....which Im going to anyway, just didnt think it would stop my car from starting.
#9
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It matters if you swap connectors on the two primaries. It's pretty easy to check if you test continuity from the ecu connector pins to the injectors per wiring diagrams page B-1b (Z30).
#10
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It was quicker to just switch the connectors, perform de-flooding ritual (just in case), prime with starter fluid, and try again. It made no difference really. It might have sputtered for another second before dying, but thats it.
#11
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First of all you don't have to cut any wires if you are going with the pfc and removing all of the emisson componants (it will be a dead circuit anyway). Is your fuel pressure at 38psi at idle or is that your base pressure? Also your plugs might be fouled so have you changed those out as well?
R.K.
R.K.
#12
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Its a new wiring harness, and before I put it in, I removed the unused wires and pins from the connectors, the rewrapped it in high temp silicon tape.
The plugs are new (iridium I think, bought them from RX7Store months ago, along with wires). The car was never run with the new plugs, but I suppose they could have been fouled the frist time I tried to start the car (?)
The plugs are new (iridium I think, bought them from RX7Store months ago, along with wires). The car was never run with the new plugs, but I suppose they could have been fouled the frist time I tried to start the car (?)
#13
The first time you set up your PFC, you're supposed to let it do it's learn mode thing. You should ask on the PFC forum on how to get it to start the car without doing this.
#15
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550/850 is what they are set at.
edit: reading through manual, it states that it will light the check engine light if there are critical sensors with incorrect voltage inputs, and intake air temp was one of them. Mine isnt hooked up, could that be what is causing my problem?
edit: reading through manual, it states that it will light the check engine light if there are critical sensors with incorrect voltage inputs, and intake air temp was one of them. Mine isnt hooked up, could that be what is causing my problem?
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