I plan to be building up my FD3S soon and I was going to go M2 Turbo. But i keep reading this board and people are going single or Non-Seq.

What does this gain you?

My car will be a street monster and a Road Course Weekend warrior. What setup would best werk for me?

Thanks again...

 

M2 Sequential Ball Bearing Twins:
Pros: Should make power in the lower revs for good street driving. More power than stock turbos are capable of. (Claimed to be able to support 400RWHP)
Cons: Complicated and unreliable sequential control system is still used.

Stock twins w/ non-sequential mod:
Pros: Get rid of the sequential control system for simplicity and reliability. Slight power increase if the "complete" non-sequential mod is done. Inexpensive compared to other turbo options.
Cons: Lose some low end response, so street driving suffers some. Limited horsepower as compared to other turbo options.

Single turbo:
Pros: Big power. Simple and more reliable turbo control.
Cons: Some low end sacrifice (how much depends on turbo). Expensive. Need lots of other mods to support it (Fuel system, engine management, etc.)

 

This should be a stickey, it is a perfect and simple explantation to what i would assume is a common question


Thanks Again

 

sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I have a quick question and im a huge newb..

Why wont a single turbo work with stock fuel at low boost? From my limited reading, anything seems better to me than the complicated twin sequential setup. wont the single also get rid of many of the vacumn lines aka the rats nest?

EDIT: actually how much cleaner does the engine bay get with the stock twins configured for a non-sequential setup?

The only reason for asking this question is because of simplicity. Anything that will make the car easier to work on, easier to diagnose is a huge plus for me. At this point in time I am not looking to make power rather im looking to have a good solid baseline to start from.

Thanks

 

dont have all of your answers but with a bigger single, even though you may be at low boost....your still sending more air into the engine. B/c there is better air flow. more air= more fuel needed.

 

It gets alot cleaner. Alot. Plus, saying its cheap to do isnt quite right...that is if you decide to do the conversion correctly.

 

Exactly. The whole point behind a larger single turbo is to increase the air flow to the engine. You should all know by know that if you want to make more power you need to move as much air and FUEL into the motor as possible. So the turbo supplies the air. You then need to upgrage to a fule supply system that can keep up with the turbo. Then you need the EMS to manage it all etc.

The engine can be emptied out alot with full non sequential. Makes a huge difference in wrenching on your car. The single turbo swap allows you to really go bare essential under the hood. I'll throw in some photos of different stages of my car.

 

Sorry for the awesome spelling of fule' "Must be Italian"
and if you really want to go single turbo get used to seeing this, which is where she is currently.

 

Thanks for the quick replies guys..

whoa...that last picture isn't too confidence inspiring...lol

Here is the situation. I *may* be the new owner of a 93T 5-speed RX-7. I am currently reading through the pre-purchase posts and faq's, which I might add have thus far been VERY helpful.

I can definitely understand the logic behind a single turbo flowing more.. and especially with detonation being such a critical issue, no chances should be taken that contribute to a lean condition.

So I guess the best option at this point in time is to do the preventive maintenance and then the reliability mods and then the non-sequential setup. Ill keep you guys updated...if I do indeed purchase the car ill post pics..

Thanks very much for the help,
Nomie

 

Dave,

what are your thoughts on a gt35/40 @ at 10-12 psi using a PFS IC?

I'm thinking of going single due to the fact that I'm sick of my non-sequential twins always leaking oil. Since I already have the turbo lag and already have most of the supporting mods and I'm only looking for 350 RWHP max, my conversion is not for power it's about making things easier for me in the long run.

 

i am considering the same setup. although the $3k+ price tag for the kit is not too attractive to me right now. so im going to stick with my 99 twins. from what i understand they are good for 400+ whp.

 

to me the 3k price is what's attractive... Rebuilding the twins is a waste of time so my choices are:

Used but what condition are they in? will I be in the same boat? Very likely considering low milage FD's are getting very rare. New they are over 3k.

99 twins- Same as above

this is where I need to do my research:

BNR's- good turbos, rebuildable, price tag of $2200 (i think). I can use my DP and all of my other parts so essentially it is just a swap. But with that price tag why not just go with a single?

Single- The most expensive of the bunch. But I think once it's all said and done going single *might* just be simpler than any other setup. Now is the single (GT35/40) more efficient than the BNR's? will my intake temps be cooler at 12 psi? Is the single much easier (and maybe cheaper) to rebuild than the BNR's?

 

99 twins=400 hp? with what mods? from what i've heard they have smaller compressors, so the response is just increased slightly... they are not much different from 93-98 twins, slightly more efficient.

 

sorry i was reffering to the gt35/40. from what I understand about the 99's is that they are only good for about 350 max.

 

Montego, if you go GT35/40, you will have to deal with passing emissions illegally. This may or may not be an issue for you, but it is for me.

I'm making 350+ rwhp at 14 psi with the BNRs run sequentially. I can pass smog at the shop down the street simply by swapping out my hi-flow cat and my midpipe. No bribing, no johnny-law problems.

 

Ryan makes an important point. I fought with emissions tests for the four years. It's was a huge pain in the ***. I recently changed my mailing address to a neighboring county which does not require me to emissions test any of my vehicles. So I don't have to worry about it anymore. I should just use a dump pipe out the side. LOL

Montego, I think that Dub (Carson) runs that set up. 35/40 with a PFS intercooler. I have never driven a car with that turbo but it is supposed to be pretty responsive. Really it all depends on the turbine housing. Just about any turbo with a .75 or lower turbine is going to be very responsive, assuming the manifold is worth a damn.

 

I'm already there with johnny law lol... I'm assuming your airpump is in place.

Thanks Dave, I'll look up Dub

 

Yes, air pump is in place.

The PFS SMIC is perfectly adequate for a GT 35/40. A larger SMIC would work better at higher levels of boost, I'm sure, but the PFS is adequate.

 

cool... that's what I wanted to hear.

 

And as a bonus, you can see the stages of the owner if you look in the reflections

Dave