well i've been searching about the sequential and non sequential information my only question is how long would it take to the non sequential turbos to start to spool....

example:
full sequential turbos start spooling around 2000rpms (i don't know this just an example)

non sequential turbos start spoolin around 2800rpms????

the reason i'm asking this is because i have my upper intake manifold off at the moment since i'm polishing it, and also i'm installing pulleys and eliminating my air pump as well as adding an hks downpipe, and i have some banzai racing non sequential block off plates and I was wondering if its worth doing...lmk thanks

 

My non seq kicks in at 3k

Yes non seq is worth it.

 

there is more to non-seq, than just block off plates.... just so you know.

 

i had both, sequential and non and i have to admit that i like the sequential set up better. if your sequential set up works fine dont touch it

 

I know there is more involve to it than just the block off plates...

 

+1
I like my seq... boost is there almost instantly...

L8R

 

i just bought another fd and it had the seq turbo setup and man it was soo much fun to drive and that was only at 10psi

 

where in fl are you lw?

 

it depends on how u do it, some guys on here that do the real''richmans non seq'' with all the porting say they make boost by 2800rpm, i think if your going to do it, do it right the 1st time, port the waste gate, clean up & port the manifold etc, search '' richmans non seq mod'' u should find what u need, thats what i followed.

 

+1 seq.

 

with stock ports even out of boost my engine feels peppy and torquey..

positive pressure I see in the high 2's
full boost is about 3,300 rpm

anything after 2,000 rpm is usable power..

I can be in 5th at 2,000+ and it'll be fine for over taking trucks and stuff..

apexi intakes, Stock SMIC (greddy on the way), ported wastegate, cut out the flappers to do a proper conversion.. but the manifold isn't ported or anything..

 

Properly functioning sequential turbos are great. However, lots of people have problems troubleshooting secondary control issues, which is what has made non-sequential a popular option. I personally prefer the responsiveness of the sequential setup when dealing with the twins, but I am a single turbo guy myself.

The NS BOP that is in the kit is basically a freebie, just like the rear oil return line BOP when purchasing the "single turbo kit" , besides those two plates the kits are the same. We did not feel like selling individual plates so this made it easier for packaging and inventory.

 

I was tired of all the damn lines on the rats nest. Non seq there is slight lag but its not an issue to me. I like how non seq the power is more smooter than seq when the 1st turbo kicks in your *** is in your seat and then the 2nd turbo kicks in...

 

Ft. Lauderdale area.... Boostville is an inside joke with the few guys I meet up with.. Everyone except 3 of us in the area were on boost... It is now down to 1 guy BUT his car is a one owner all original 1st gen so he will stay that way..

L8R

 

Seq spools faster than non-seq no matter what boost you run if below about 4000rpm.

Seq may cause a sever torque change during swith-over which may cause driving problems.

A full 100% non-seq will make a little more power in the higher revs than seq and will put less stress on the #1 turbo.

At 12-15psi boost with non-seq, you will still make more low end power than seq at stock boost levels.

Your driving style will dictate which you will like.
Did you grow up driving V8s or I4s?

 

2800s with non sequential? Go with this: expect full boost (10 psi at 3800 so you wont be disappointed. The majority of people with full non seq hit at 3800, including myself (i'm single BB now . There are a few that do it below but they are a minority and lucky *******. Maybe their turbos are in great shape so they spool quicker I don't know. All I know is that I did everything right richmans non-seq, MP, DP, short piping, and I didn't get boost earlier.

 

why would you want no boost untill 4000rpm when you can get full boost at 2k rpm sequential.
to me going non seq seems like all your doing is getting rid of instant boost in favour of having your turbos kick in when with a seq setup the second turbo would usually be coming online. Seems like a pointless lag creating exercise.
What about on the street. a seq FD vs a non-seq FD. the seq FD will crap on it unless the non-seq guy wants to drop his clutch at 4k + rpm.
by the time a non-seq guy is building boost, the seq guy should be long gone and hauling *** already.
Heres a question, from 2k - 8k rpm. Would the seq or non seq FD get there faster?
I think we all know the answer to that and isnt that a simple way of saying which is faster?

 

you forgot one important thing

Tuning!

timing and fuel off boost makes a big diff to your spool characteristics

and can easily give u that 300-500rpm your "missing out on"

but I'd expect manifold health (i.e. cracks) and turbo condition do make a difference..

 

I did when i wrote it but not in real life. Still 3800

 

To make a very long story short, how early the nonsequential kicks in depends on how well your intake, exhaust, and turbo manifolds flow air. A "full" NS conversion eliminates restrictions from the turbos and intake and makes it quite close to the stock sequential.

If you just install a few blockoffs and don't do the full conversion you'll see more lag.

Also remember that the low RPM onset of boost is one thing; the delay until you spool is another. If you're in 5th at 2200rpm you can produce boost with either setup, but sequential will get to full boost more quickly. So if you rely on what people say on the internet you'll never really get a complete picture.

Dave

 

In what gear is this comparison happening?
In the rear world, where do you start a rolling 2000 rpm race?
The V8 guys will say lets do it from 500rpm.
At 11psi boost with my old non-seq and now my GT35R, coming off the line easy in first at 3000rpm spins the wheels all the way to redline. Doing the same with higher boost only produces more spin. That is with 275/40-17s rears.

After first gear the revs never drop below 4000rpm so there is no disadvantage for racing. As I previously said, your driving habits will determine your performance.

 

I absolutely agree. It all depends on understanding the gearing of the car and where in the RPM range you have good engine torque. Yes, you'll be missing some of that torque before the standard transition point (~4500 RPM). But you get more torque, in general, above that in a turbo rotary anyway. If you know how to truly work a manual gearbox and understand when to shift to get maximum acceleration it doesn't matter if you're seq or non-seq--unless you're racing from stop sign to stop sign.

Also, I think a lot of people are confused about turbo "lag". Check out Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost. He makes it clear.

LAG: The time (in seconds) it takes for you to build xxx boost pressure [this will vary depending on what RPM you press the throttle down, and what boost you're trying to achieve, among other things].

BOOST THRESHOLD: The RPM when you make boost [this will also vary depending on what boost level you're talking about, among other things]

FOR EXAMPLE: On my car (full non-sequential stock turbos), I have "lag" below 4k RPM. If I step on the gas below 4k, it takes a second or two for boost to build. If I'm above 4k RPM, there is virtually NO lag. Boost comes on immediately.

HOWEVER: if I'm WOT less than 4k RPM, my boost threshold is 4k (for 12-13 psi, I get 10 psi about 3500).

 

I'm thinking of going to 35R myself.. how does it compare to the NS twins?

 

My GT35R is a T3 with 1.06 AR turbine for more top end power. It can be had with smaller AR turbines for faster spool. Or even in T4 for less back pressure and faster spool. Contact A-Spec.

Mine spools faster the the NS twins.

 

I get 10 psi by 3300 with my 35R compared to my 3800 with the NS twins.