Separating Fact From Fiction on Oil Drain Intervals
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Separating Fact From Fiction on Oil Drain Intervals
I found the threads on this forum fascinating
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=3&page=1
FDs are well known to be exceedingly tough on oil, likely one of the more severe tests in the production street car world: blow-by, high fuel dilution, elevated operating temps, etc, etc...so, I'd like to see if there is any interest in a group of us FD owners sending in their oil to these guys for analysis
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=3&page=1
FDs are well known to be exceedingly tough on oil, likely one of the more severe tests in the production street car world: blow-by, high fuel dilution, elevated operating temps, etc, etc...so, I'd like to see if there is any interest in a group of us FD owners sending in their oil to these guys for analysis
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
#2
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A few have sent ours to Royal purple for testing with David Canitz a few years ago. The FD and rotary in general has fuel dilusion issues so it's best to change your oil every 3k at worst, even in the RX-8. Wait 5k on the 8 and it's not really much oil left for lubricity.
Tim
Tim
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As I remember, the fuel dilution of the tested oil was running around 10%.
People get all **** about their oil on this forum, and most do change at 3k miles. But you don't see oil related engine failures being reported, so you can relax a bit.
It's your coolant mix you should be getting persnickety about.
People get all **** about their oil on this forum, and most do change at 3k miles. But you don't see oil related engine failures being reported, so you can relax a bit.
It's your coolant mix you should be getting persnickety about.
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the real question is what are the long term risks associated with high fuel diltuion? I was looking over the Blackstone Labs comments and they don't seem to think it's a big deal, but then again it was no where close to 10%
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I'm currently in the (long) process of testing and sampling a few oils in my car.
My plan is to run my current oil (Mobil 1 10w-40) for 2k miles and take a sample at 1k and 2k, then repeat with Idemitsu (for it's extreme rotary-ness) and RLI Biosyn 5w-40 because of it's supposed superiority for tolerating heavy fuel dilution. I won't have my results for a year since I barely do 5k/year.
My plan is to run my current oil (Mobil 1 10w-40) for 2k miles and take a sample at 1k and 2k, then repeat with Idemitsu (for it's extreme rotary-ness) and RLI Biosyn 5w-40 because of it's supposed superiority for tolerating heavy fuel dilution. I won't have my results for a year since I barely do 5k/year.
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Yeah, but engines are suffering cooling disasters long before there are any oil related failures. It's like you're worrying about eventual termite damage while your house is on fire.
#10
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imho,
the rotary destroys oil quickly. In 2k miles the oil smells like a gas can. Therefore, it doesn't matter much if you have expensive sythetic oil or castrol gtx at 3k miles because the gasoline kills the lubrication.
I buy cheap 20w50 castrol gtx and change it every 1-1500 miles. Costs 15 bucks total with the filter and is cheaper and more effective at lubrication then spending 30 dollars on sythetic and changing it every 3k
the rotary destroys oil quickly. In 2k miles the oil smells like a gas can. Therefore, it doesn't matter much if you have expensive sythetic oil or castrol gtx at 3k miles because the gasoline kills the lubrication.
I buy cheap 20w50 castrol gtx and change it every 1-1500 miles. Costs 15 bucks total with the filter and is cheaper and more effective at lubrication then spending 30 dollars on sythetic and changing it every 3k
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speculative comment with no facts in hand...high gas dilution reduces apparent viscosity, it does not "kill lubrication [properties]", furthermore it is not necessarily true that all oils perform similarly when exposed to high fuel dilution
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My goal FWIW is not to extend oil change intervals (at 5k/year that's barely twice a year anyway), but if during that 2k I can get better wear numbers I'll absolutely continue with that product.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 07-14-08 at 11:47 AM.
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Personally, until Dave's results come back, I'll be following Howard Coleman's advice in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/you-need-know-about-reformulated-oil-revisited-again-july-08-a-770726/
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I think its always good to do research, so I support any efforts to better understand how our engines effect oil and vice versa.
10 years ago people argued over whether synthetic oil destroyed rotary engines or not and it was like the Civil War or Hatfields and McCoys. Today, everyone somehow knows that synthetic is just fine.
10 years ago people argued over whether synthetic oil destroyed rotary engines or not and it was like the Civil War or Hatfields and McCoys. Today, everyone somehow knows that synthetic is just fine.
However, if the intent of the OP is to see if there is something in the oiling, like fuel dilution, that, if overcome, would make the engine run cooler or detonate less... that's probably not the case.
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