JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

I am almost done breaking in my Atkins/3mm Seals/Stock-port engine and am now at a fork in the road. I have come up with a hypothetical setup, and would like to get some feedback. I will be keeping my stock twins, but would like to go single .in the future.

I have the following mods: 3" Dp, 3" High Flow Cat, Greddy SP Exhaust, Walboro 255, Fluidyne Rad., Efini Y-pipe, RE Dual Oil Coolers, Power FC

Hypothetical Setup : Stock-twins (Seq.)
550cc Primaries/1300cc (RC) Secondaries
Greddy 2-row 24R FMIC

When I decide to go single, I can always drop in some 850cc's into the primaries and keep the 1300cc's in the secondaries. Does anyone have this or a similar setup? I am aiming for 300-325 Rwhp with a good tune. Is this ideal with stock twins? How about engine temps with the FMIC? I would like hear some feedback. Thanks a lot!...Ben

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Your hypothetical setup is basically what I'm running now. Making low to mid 300s depending on boost.

Running a FMIC will cause higher Coolant temps particularly in stop and go street driving. My temps have gotten as high as 105 sitting in stopped traffic on a hot, humid, 100 degree July 06 in the northeast.

If you're moving on the highway or side streets its not as noticeable - runs maybe 5-10 degrees higher than with a SMIC depending on traffic/temps etc.

Given what a pita it is to install the Greddy, I'd recommend trying to find a Blitz FMIC. Much less cutting and allows the radiator to get better air flow as well.

A decent SMIC like the Pettit, CWC or M2/ASP should also work well with twins or a medium sized single turbo like Aspec's 35R.

Some people report great results with 850 primaries while others find them hard to tune and that affects low speed smoothness and response IIRC. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong...

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

Gracer,
Thanks for your input. Exactly what I was looking for. I do mainly stop n go driving, so I will look into the Blitz as I am mainly concerned about restricting airflow to my radiator with the FMIC. I read somewhere that 1300cc injectors, when bored out, tend to drip a little. True or False?.....

VegasFD

Your setup seems fine for both the twins and is a great start for most single upgrades out there. As far as the FMIC air restriction, there are plenty of threads that discuss the pros/cons of using of them. I've read that the Apexi FMIC design still allows air flow to the radiator. Not sure about the 1300s dripping. Maybe someone else can chime in.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

One more thing. If you spend some time/effort ducting the radiator, I'm sure the Greddy FMIC will work a bit better than the results I posted above. There are just huge empty spaces above and to the side of the radiator with the Greddy FMIC that provide an escape route for air and decrease cooling ability.

Do a search on the 1300s and make your own decision.

Lots of info on both topics out there.

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Yo what up big pimpin

Here's my $0.02.

1) Why are you running 3mm seals on a stock-ported motor?

2) If you're not making a dedicated drag car, skip the FMIC. VegasFD, it's not whether or not air gets to the radiator. In all circumstances, air gets to the radiator. The question is, just how hot is that air? A FMIC is the equivalent of turning a fan on high, then putting a thick barrier between you and the fan, and wondering why you're still hot

As Gracer said, a large M2/ASP SMIC is prob the way to go, unless you have the dough to drop in a V-mount.

3) Depending on what power levels you may be looking for in the future, you may wanna get an aftermarket secondary fuel rail and some 1600cc injectors from the get-go. You have a PFC, so you can definitely control them. The safest way (IMO, as there definitely IS debate as Gracer alluded to) would be 850 primaries w/ the primary rail milled, and 1600cc secondaries.

4) Also, I'm personally not fond of the Walbro fuelpump. I'd take the Supra TT over it *anyday*. And even then, depending on what power levels you may be looking for, you may wanna run dual fuel pumps

5) DITCH THE CAT! lol

6) At the 325 rwhp level, I hope you have an aftermarket upgraded clutch, and replaced the bearings, o-rings/seals, and *clutch fork*. You may also wanna run diff plugs (9s all around) and you'll eventually need an ignition amp (maybe not at 325 rwhp, but def. once you get closer to the 400rwhp mark).

7) Where's your intake??

Hollar @ your boy
~Ramy

JUGGAKNOTZZ

iTrader: (9)

Ramnoozle-
What up playa?....Thanks for your input. Lemme respond to your pointers...

1) Why not? (Not to sound like a pre-teen hussy or anything)

2)If I go with a FMIC, I would fabricate some ducting to feed air more directly to the radiator. I am also getting a vented hood.

3) I may decide to go 850/1600 with an upgraded sec. fuel rail/lines, and a different intercooler when i am tired of 325 Rwhp and want more, but for now I'm looking to keep it in the low to mid 300's. Running large injectors at a low duty cycle is not what I am looking to do. I'm looking to run medium injectors at a mid-range duty cycle. In the future, when I want to get more Rwhp I will change the whole fuel system, but for now I'm looking to keep it simple (i.e. drop in injectors), yet maximize efficiency.

4) I can change the fuel pump with the snap of a finger, but for now I feel that it is efficient in a 300-350 Rwhp setup. Why you hatin' on the Walboro?

5)Yoooo.....I heard Bob_760's RX with no cat and it sounds a lil rough. I love the way my old school Greddy SP sounds.

6)I have an ACT Street/Strip....Sorry, i forgot to mention that....HAHA....I'm thinking of getting my tranny rebuilt, but I did change the journal bearing/throwout bearing when i put the clutch in.

7)I have an old Greddy intake, but I am looking to get the HKS RS in the very near future.

Yoller back when you see this....Lemme know what you think.....Peace nyukka

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Wzup big pimpin Sorry for the late reply; I'm madd busy kid. And don't worry, your ish on the on way. I got you son

No need. That's usually done on a highly stressed large ported motor. Looks like a waste of money IMO. Plus they're said to have increased chatter at higher rpms, more wear on the housings, and poorer sealing characteristics at low rpms (not the best for a street-driven car).

Dude, it don't matter if you run NO hood at all, you essentially have a wall (the IC) blocking the radiator. And what air does FINALLY get through the IC and go to the radiator, it's already super hot, as it's done it's job well and absorbed tons of heat while passing through that massive FMIC. That's it's job, is it not? And ducting bypassing the IC and going directly to the radiator? 1) I dunno if that path is technically possible, and 2) if it is, you prob need to duct the radiator to the vent in the hood for it to be effective, which means you're looking at a hella lot of work. The air will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance, and being that the FMIC is prime location, it'll prob flow through there vs. the hypothetical duct you speak of...or at least that's my guess. Plus, why you re-inventing the wheel? If you wanna do it right, just get a large SMIC, or better yet a V-mount. I guess you're too hung up on having nice teeth for the FD, eh? You have NO IDEA how many times ppl (who don't know much) see my FD and are like "yo man your car is sick...all you need is a big FMIC!" and I just b/c they're talking about form, and lack of function (I don't drag my car at ALL).

Why? You're gonna hafta get the car tuned w/ the new injectors, be they drop in or an aftermarket rail. So you're paying for that anyway. Then why do the labor twice? And why pay for parts, use 'em for a short time, lose their value, try and sell 'em, and buy new parts AGAIN? Doesn't sound smart to me... Do it once, do it right. Too many ppl on this forum are sooo shortsighted when it comes to modding their car...

Cuz I just don't like it. The Supra TT pump is a superior pump, period. That's what I've seen from my research, and I'm sticking to it until proven otherwise.

Yea I've heard it too. A LOT of it has to do w/ what catback you choose. Don't be so quick to dismiss a mp based on a not-so-good sounding exhaust

When you do go to install it, take the recommendations here: http://www.fdnewbieimports.com/product.php?n=43 Trust me, it'll be worth your while in the long run (again, instead of skimping to get by today, plan ahead for the inevitable tomorrow).

Nice. I'm a huge fan of the HKS Racing Suction intake

~Ramy

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

HKS Racing suction intakes are beautiful! They would go well with a HKS vmount *nudges Ramy*. Don't you think?

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Haha... Actually I'm not the biggest fan of the HKS V-mount. I'd suggest the Knightsports as the #1 choice from what Japan has to offer...

Hopefully if my V-mount kit comes out as nice as I hope it will, my #1 recommendation will be changing