Safe to relocate coolant reservoir?
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Safe to relocate coolant reservoir?
I have relocated the coolant reservoir (plastic) to the firewall on the passenger side near the overflow tank. It is still at about the same level (vertically) as before.
I also capped the water supply and drain lines at the motor for the stock turbos when I installed the single.
Any problems with these mods?
I also capped the water supply and drain lines at the motor for the stock turbos when I installed the single.
Any problems with these mods?
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Do not replace the AST, remove the useless piece of junk as most serious owners of modded engines have done. Do a search on how to do it. It is also posted on some RX-7 sites.
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I prefere to keep it only because it helps collect the air in the system much better than without one... this way you are much less likely to suffer from air bubbles in the motor.
Cewrx7r1, what are the negative effects of keeping an AST compared to removing it other than the possible 1lb weight gain to your car? I dont see any ill effects other than to better assist your cooling system. I'm still learning though so dont take my post as one from an 'expert'.
~Kris
Cewrx7r1, what are the negative effects of keeping an AST compared to removing it other than the possible 1lb weight gain to your car? I dont see any ill effects other than to better assist your cooling system. I'm still learning though so dont take my post as one from an 'expert'.
~Kris
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I have read many threads on the pros and cons of keeping vs. eliminating the AST. However, none have dealt with relocating it.
I chose to keep it for the same reason that "JaNusSolSumnus" stated. I realize that the plastic AST is a weak link. But when it breaks, I'll bypass it an have the new cap on hand.
I chose to keep it for the same reason that "JaNusSolSumnus" stated. I realize that the plastic AST is a weak link. But when it breaks, I'll bypass it an have the new cap on hand.
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The AST does make it easier to get rid of air bubbles after changing radiator fluid. Without it, it takes about two three driving cycles(drive car, let it cool down, and refill fluid) for all air to get out. It would eventually get rid of it all by itself through the overflow valve and tank.
I just speed up the process. Most I ever had to add back was about 1 cup of fluid.
Thus the disadvantage is very small and only occurs immediately after a cooling system refill. It all depends on your cooling system refill procedures.
Even with the AST, it takes a while to get the cooling system topped up.
The advantages last for ever: less weight, less engine compartement clutter, less cost, and more reliability.
All my friends with modded engines have done this and never had any problems.
Along the same line of resoning (to get rid of useless parts) is the FPR solenoid. It serves no real purpose even though the manual says it is to help prevent fuel
vapor lock. DOH, we have a high pressure pusher fuel pump system! All it can do is give a slightly higher cranking fuel pressure. We have never had vapor lock problems even down here in Houston summers. It is just another piece of equipment not only needed but failure of can blow your engine.
I just speed up the process. Most I ever had to add back was about 1 cup of fluid.
Thus the disadvantage is very small and only occurs immediately after a cooling system refill. It all depends on your cooling system refill procedures.
Even with the AST, it takes a while to get the cooling system topped up.
The advantages last for ever: less weight, less engine compartement clutter, less cost, and more reliability.
All my friends with modded engines have done this and never had any problems.
Along the same line of resoning (to get rid of useless parts) is the FPR solenoid. It serves no real purpose even though the manual says it is to help prevent fuel
vapor lock. DOH, we have a high pressure pusher fuel pump system! All it can do is give a slightly higher cranking fuel pressure. We have never had vapor lock problems even down here in Houston summers. It is just another piece of equipment not only needed but failure of can blow your engine.
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Originally posted by cewrx7r1
The advantages last for ever: less weight, less engine compartement clutter, less cost, and more reliability.
The advantages last for ever: less weight, less engine compartement clutter, less cost, and more reliability.
Originally posted by cewrx7r1
Along the same line of resoning (to get rid of useless parts) is the FPR solenoid. It serves no real purpose even though the manual says it is to help prevent fuel
vapor lock...All it can do is give a slightly higher cranking fuel pressure
Along the same line of resoning (to get rid of useless parts) is the FPR solenoid. It serves no real purpose even though the manual says it is to help prevent fuel
vapor lock...All it can do is give a slightly higher cranking fuel pressure
IIRC correctly from investigating the manual the FPR solenoid is only used during hot start, otherwise the system behaves as if the solenoid doesn't exist. If you don't daily drive your FD you'd probably never notice the difference.
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Would the effect be the same with an aftermarket FPR. I have installed the SX FPR with the Comp FP. Although, I have not started it yet.
I would love to eliminate another part if possible though. It seems the FPR would give you a layer of protection between the FP and injectors to keep flow consistent. But...I am far from an expert.
I would love to eliminate another part if possible though. It seems the FPR would give you a layer of protection between the FP and injectors to keep flow consistent. But...I am far from an expert.
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