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Dredging this up, since I'm trying this. Can someone help me with the wiring? I stared at the diagrams here, but I just don't get it. I'm bad at many things, but I'm most bad at wiring.
The 4 colors are the same, but the pairings are reversed.
FD Motor: (blue+yellow), (black+green)
RX8 Motor: (black+yellow), (blue+green)
I was really hoping I could depin and swap the connectors. Or, at least splice them correctly?
So, is it color-to-color, or...?
In spit of all the confusing diagrams and conflicting information, apparently the answer is...
MATCH THE COLORS!
Green to green, black to black, etc.
sigh.
And, from the top of this thread.
Originally Posted by R7rexy
Not too long ago, my fans stopped working. The fans just seized. Looked around for replacement, and they were too expensive going oem FD. And I did not want to go aftermarket electric because they wouldn't cool as good as stock. So, I bought myself rx8 fans, the whole setup with the shroud for $50 out of a 2009 rx8, and simply swapped them instead of the rx7 fans. All you have to do is take them out of the rx8 shroud and drop them into the rx7 shroud and wire them up. The colors are the same, but if anyone needs, I have wrote out what fan wires correspond with the harness wires.
A little vague by itself, but in the context of the others it sounds true.
Anyone wanna seal the deal for me here?
I'd love to find a source for the wiring harness side connectors. I still need to make a junkyard trip and see if I can score that connector off some other Mazda of the era.
I have a set of real deal 99 spec fans at home to go in at some point. I like the newer connectors as they seem more svelte than the bulky stockers.
BTW, I am currently running 99 spec fans on my original 94 fan motors. There is a decent size difference in the D-shaped hole in the fan blade and the D-shaped post on the motor. My solution was wrapping the post in Teflon tape until it bulked up enough to fit the new fan properly. Been like that for 3 years or so. Teflon is really stable stuff, and once it's wrapped around enough to fill the void it will be even in distibution on all sides. You don't want it lopsided and get a wobble.
I did extensively bench test the fans before install to be certain they were centered, secure, and running true. Didn't have to do any adjusting or tinkering.
I am wanting to swap out to the 99 motors as they are supposed to have less of a current draw. MIGHT be lighter too, I will weigh them at some point.
Hard to say if it made a difference one way or the other. They're black so they look better?
I'd love to find a source for the wiring harness side connectors. I still need to make a junkyard trip and see if I can score that connector off some other Mazda of the era.
I have a set of real deal 99 spec fans at home to go in at some point. I like the newer connectors as they seem more svelte than the bulky stockers.
BTW, I am currently running 99 spec fans on my original 94 fan motors. There is a decent size difference in the D-shaped hole in the fan blade and the D-shaped post on the motor. My solution was wrapping the post in Teflon tape until it bulked up enough to fit the new fan properly. Been like that for 3 years or so. Teflon is really stable stuff, and once it's wrapped around enough to fill the void it will be even in distibution on all sides. You don't want it lopsided and get a wobble.
I did extensively bench test the fans before install to be certain they were centered, secure, and running true. Didn't have to do any adjusting or tinkering.
I am wanting to swap out to the 99 motors as they are supposed to have less of a current draw. MIGHT be lighter too, I will weigh them at some point.
Hard to say if it made a difference one way or the other. They're black so they look better?
Dale
My RX8-S2 fans were gold in color, and noticeably lighter (in the hand) than the FD fans.
Like you I also read that they draw less current. I wondered if the weight difference was from a different case material or a smaller motor, or some combination of both.
Some people think they're slower, and that's the reason for the higher efficiency blades. My old motors are a bit rusty, so even if it's a wash in efficiency it's a nice aesthetic upgrade.
It would be hard to armchair engineer the difference. Blade profiles and blade counts is an interesting subject, on which there is much written. The easy answer is "not sure".
A simple test might be a well placed air flow meter, I have a nice gap between my turbojeff battery tray and my stock SMIC where a steady breeze comes through. Not a sure fire CFM test, but it might indicate something interesting.
I'd love to find a source for the wiring harness side connectors. I still need to make a junkyard trip and see if I can score that connector off some other Mazda of the era.
I have a set of real deal 99 spec fans at home to go in at some point. I like the newer connectors as they seem more svelte than the bulky stockers.
BTW, I am currently running 99 spec fans on my original 94 fan motors. There is a decent size difference in the D-shaped hole in the fan blade and the D-shaped post on the motor. My solution was wrapping the post in Teflon tape until it bulked up enough to fit the new fan properly. Been like that for 3 years or so. Teflon is really stable stuff, and once it's wrapped around enough to fill the void it will be even in distibution on all sides. You don't want it lopsided and get a wobble.
I did extensively bench test the fans before install to be certain they were centered, secure, and running true. Didn't have to do any adjusting or tinkering.
I am wanting to swap out to the 99 motors as they are supposed to have less of a current draw. MIGHT be lighter too, I will weigh them at some point.
Hard to say if it made a difference one way or the other. They're black so they look better?
I wired both power wires to 1, 8 gauge wire, and sent it back to a trunk mounted relay. Wire both grounds to 1 8 gauge wire and grounded to frame next to fan. Did this on each motor. Fans are now Hi Speed / Off and run off the electronic water pump controller which grounds the 2x relays simultaneously.
No concrete data, but car does run cooler in water temps at idle on larger engine than the 20 did; though it may have to do w/ the lack of thick FMIC this go around.
Fans are quieter and appear faster.
Anyone using the stock fan relays and wiring, i've found The voltage drop is horrendous and its very convoluted. Can't go wrong rewiring it with upgraded wiring with direct paths to battery/new relays.
I wired both power wires to 1, 8 gauge wire, and sent it back to a trunk mounted relay. Wire both grounds to 1 8 gauge wire and grounded to frame next to fan. Did this on each motor. Fans are now Hi Speed / Off and run off the electronic water pump controller which grounds the 2x relays simultaneously.
No concrete data, but car does run cooler in water temps at idle on larger engine than the 20 did; though it may have to do w/ the lack of thick FMIC this go around.
Fans are quieter and appear faster.
Anyone using the stock fan relays and wiring, i've found The voltage drop is horrendous and its very convoluted. Can't go wrong rewiring it with upgraded wiring with direct paths to battery/new relays.
I'd love to find a source for the wiring harness side connectors. I still need to make a junkyard trip and see if I can score that connector off some other Mazda of the era.
I have a set of real deal 99 spec fans at home to go in at some point. I like the newer connectors as they seem more svelte than the bulky stockers.
Unfortunately Mouser, digikey, nor Corsa Technic has these in stock. However a Google search will lead to vendors selling them on ebay, Amazon, etc.
I just did this swap. Corsa Technic now has 6185-1171 in stock because they sourced it for me, and they're working on the other side now too since I told them I wanted to build a harness with these connections on both ends. They are super helpful, a really awesome company.
I wired mine up by color, matching blue to blue, yellow to yellow, etc. I tested the fans with the AC switch before installing them and both fans kicked on, so I went ahead and installed them. Now when I start the car it hunts for idle for about 30 seconds to a minute, then settles at around 2k, and before I started this project it was idling around 1k. The only other things I changed was a couple temp sensors (for SPA gauges, so they're not wired into the stock system), and I removed all my AC components for now. Is it possible the decreased draw from the fans is throwing off the map somehow? I have a Syvecs and I already emailed Chris Ludwig (he's the one that installed it), but I was wondering if anyone else ran into this problem. I'm trying to get it figured out by tomorrow night if possible because we have a fun drive coming up this Saturday. I can drive the car, I would just like to get this sorted first if possible. I've verified that the fans still come on when they're supposed to. I looked through my map and can't find where I could make any adjustments to accommodate fans with less amp draw.
I'm not familiar with how the Syvecs does the idle adjustment, but I seriously doubt that just swapping the fans would cause THAT much of a difference in idle. Alternator load should only drag the engine down a hundred RPM or so, there shouldn't be much to compensate for.
I also don't know how that ECU handles the electrical load input, if maybe it's thinking the fans are on when they are not or something. But it seems crazy that you'd have THAT much of a high idle.
I'm not familiar with how the Syvecs does the idle adjustment, but I seriously doubt that just swapping the fans would cause THAT much of a difference in idle. Alternator load should only drag the engine down a hundred RPM or so, there shouldn't be much to compensate for.
I also don't know how that ECU handles the electrical load input, if maybe it's thinking the fans are on when they are not or something. But it seems crazy that you'd have THAT much of a high idle.
Dale
Yeah I wouldn't have thought either, and maybe I messed up something else, but I figure if the fans are coming on and they're turning the correct direction, it shouldn't be the fan wiring. I completely closed the air bleed screw and loosed the screw on the front of the TB, and nothing changed. It was idling a little bit lower this when I tried it a little bit ago, but went back up to 2000+ when I opened the air bleed screw back to half turn open. I wondered if the ECU has to do a relearn procedure and I didn't want it learning with the bleed screw all the way closed. And maybe I need to take it out for a drive to do more of a relearn, IDK.
I did have an error regarding the MAP sensor and TPS. I had disconnected both so I could remove the oil filter pedestal to swap the oil temp sensor, but I don't see why that would cause an issue. They were both connected again before I ever started the car. And when they're yellow like this, that means there was a temporary error but it fixed itself.
I have the Rx8 fans and the FC thermoswitch. My car idles good and holds temperature. When it's warming up it does seem to waffle a little bit before the thermostat fully opens. Nothin too out of the ordinary for a mostly original FD.
I have my brake booster hose routed to the back of the UIM and I forgot I had disconnected it to do the work on the oil filter pedestal. I was messing with the MAP sensor and the open hole sucked my finger into it, otherwise I would have never noticed it LOL. All is well again.
I'm even more impressed with the Syvecs now. When I had the Power FC, I would have a hunting idle all the time, but this ECU took that huge vacuum leak and shrugged it off after the initial hunting haha.
I've looked all over for those and can't find them anywhere. I'd be surprised if they're still available.
Good news! With the help of another FD member, we found that the pins from Corsa Technic 250 Housing Lance Pin Contact 250.HL-PIN fits the FD Fan motor connector.
The connector that came with it didn't fit, so you have to reuse your existing fan connector.
03-03-17, 12:37 AM
