that would be a problem if you're reading the correct wire. try moving the harness around while watching the DVOM and see if the voltage drops.
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will post up more this evening once im off work. glad i finally found something though lol. looks like its a short to power
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ok so i am not getting 4.99v on the green and white wire coming out of the ecu with the car cold
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sorry that was suppose to say i AM getting 4.99v. now this is with the car bone cold. is this right?
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Originally Posted by t2ae
(Post 11394287)
sorry that was suppose to say i AM getting 4.99v. now this is with the car bone cold. is this right?
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ok im sure its wiring as well. more checking when i get home. im going to warm the car up and see if the voltage changes
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still trying to find out though if anyone has ever had this issue and the cause being a leaking
injector |
Originally Posted by t2ae
(Post 11395149)
still trying to find out though if anyone has ever had this issue and the cause being a leaking
injector https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post11326413 If your injectors are leaking without being flipped on, then you'll see it. Now whether the spray pattern is correct and/or if the injectors are supplying the correct amount of fuel you cannot tell unless you have them benched by an injector servicing company. |
ok thanks, i will try and do a setup like you pictured. i will connect it prime and and just let it sit while checking for leaks
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a 5 volt signal from the coolant thermosensor indicates a short to the 5v reference wire. the car will always try to start as if it is extremely hot and lean out your fuel mixtures.
check your thermosensor wiring and see if the wires from the pigtail are touching/exposed. if not do a resistance test of the sensor itself. |
it is a new sensor so hopefully thats good. i double checked the volts and even warmed up its showing 4.63v. ill check the wiring hopefully tomorrow
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 11395429)
a 5 volt signal from the coolant thermosensor indicates a short to the 5v reference wire. the car will always try to start as if it is extremely hot and lean out your fuel mixtures.
check your thermosensor wiring and see if the wires from the pigtail are touching/exposed. if not do a resistance test of the sensor itself. |
don't have the schematics in front of me but the signal wire going back to the ECU is the one you want to check voltage on now, to see whether the signal is accurate.
hotter temps = less resistance through the sensor and closer to 5v signal, colder engine temps = more resistance and less voltage through the sensor. |
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
(Post 11396501)
don't have the schematics in front of me but the signal wire going back to the ECU is the one you want to check voltage on now, to see whether the signal is accurate.
hotter temps = less resistance through the sensor and closer to 5v signal, colder engine temps = more resistance and less voltage through the sensor. warmer temps= cless voltage-if i remember correctly fsm says after warm up below 0.5v |
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if you look at the pic above at the coolant temp sensor, i am getting the 4.62v on the g/w wire going to the ecu. the br/b...now is that considered the groud wire?? isnt that the ground?
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I don't think that is the ground. If you look at the bottom, the (B) wire color goes to ground.
The way it reads there is that the (BR/B) wire is the 5v Signal. Since the sensor is a resistor, the ecu sees the result of that interaction. |
but why would the g/w wire always have 4.62v??? even cut?
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ok 4D where the br/b wire goes into the ecu is a constant ground. so 3E is the 5v signal coming from the ecu. hopefully tonight i will get around to checking the sensor resistance itself and then continuity on the br/b wire to see if its not grounding
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So tonight I found that the ground at 4d is not making good contact to the pin on the ecu therefore not completing the ground. Haven't decided if I'm going to just buy all new connectors or just buy a new rywire harness but glad I finally found a problem. Thanks for all the help guys, I'll post up when i fix this
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yup so thats no it either....jeez when does this end. another bit of info is you can cold start it by removing the intercooler pipe off the throttle body side and blocking it with your hand
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with this being said it seems that it isnt getting enough fuel as "choking" it with my hand it will fire up. tonight ill be double checking fuel pressure. any other ideas guys?
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About to test the fuel pressure next. So discard what I said about choking to start it as I just tried that again and it did not work......god this is driving me crazy
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OK fuel pressure results....key on 45psi....while starting it drops but nothing odd....aftering turning key back off and letting it sit it doesnt really drop below 31psi after say an hour or so....i left the gauge on it through the night and it did drop to 6psi.. is this something i should look into??? please someone respond as i would like some help
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