t2ae

iTrader: (5)

hey guys so ive been a big 2nd gen guy for many years and finally now own a 94 touring. with that being said i have a few questions..
first with mods that i know of..
Rebuilt 13Brew short block w/approx. 18k miles

All components (alt, manifolds, belts, pumps, etc...) have approx. 40k miles on them.

Tweakit racing idler pulley

AC & Emissions pump deleted.

SS braided oil & power steering lines

Dual oil coolers

Aftermarket Earls oil cooler

Dual Supra fuel pumps

SS braided -8 & -6 fuel lines

Rotary Works full 3" exhaust

Megan 3" DP

Portmatched LIM

-Drivetrain

Act 6 puck sprung clutch and HD pressure plate

JDM 5 speed transmission w/approx. 20k miles on it

-Suspension/Steering/Wheels:

Stance Coilovers

18x10.5 +25 XXR WHEELS

-Interior

Cobalt Wideband A/F gauge

Prosport Oil pressure, oil temp, & boost gauges

Rewired fuel pump

Relocated optima red top battery to passenger bin

-Exterior

Custom pearl white paint

Shine Auto Feed Sidesteps

Shine Auto Feed Front Bumper

99spec turn lamps

99spec tail lamps

with that being said i cannot get the car to start. i have deflooded it several times and verified the basic fuel,air,spark...
Where would you guys start as far as this goes, it will try to spit and sputter but just wont run. it does have the factory fpr

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

just checked compression all faces right at 90psi

p00shy

iTrader: (3)

so its putting in fuel. your sparks are new and coils/wire are good and each spark plug is working. no leaks in air intake tubes.

Id check all these again first. I would pull out fuel lines and try and start it to see if its pushing fuel through (keep and extinguisher handy). check the sparks on each plug to see if they are nice and bright.

So your problem is just getting it to start initially?

In the past, ive had some luck with starter fluid. 1 very very very very very very quick squirt inside the UIM and poof, instant start. id let it run for a couple minutes to burn anything excess in the engine and anywhere else. then it would start under its own power.

just my 2 cents.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

it will try to start with starter fluid, so it seems as its not getting fuel. injectors are firing and i pulled the fuel line off the secondary rail and it does push gas out like normal

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

also all the solenoids are still hooked to the connectors just not going to anything. ill post up pictures to understand easier

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

You did not mention PFC, without a PFC (or other ecu) and an air pump, the engine will idle leaner than it needs. The O2 feed back system needs the air pump to dilute the exhaust so the perceived AFRs are leaner. Since the AFRs are now richer, it trys to pull fuel to get stoich.
The PFC allows you to turn off the O2 FB system.

I hope the dual fuel pumps are not over powering the FPR.

90 psi compression at 18,000 miles is very poor!

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

well the 90psi is not with the engine warmed up obviously since it wont run , so im hoping it will get a little better. im wondering the same thing with the fuel pressure regulator. when i looked at the car before i purchased it, he could get it to start but it sounded(and felt) as if it were running on 1 rotor. with these solenoids is it fine to just remove them and leave the connectors open??

AtlxPat

sounds like maybe your fuel filter is clogged or maybe the fuel pump is going out?
you could either test the voltage across the pump
or
test fuel pressure/volume test

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

as i found a wiring nightmare for all the aftermarket gauges and who knows what else im doing those so i can at least see my fuel pressure and hopefully tomorrow taking injectors to test them to be sure they arent clogged

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ok so i got it started tonight and it is running on both rotors just sounds like a huge port lol i know its not and something is wrong. anytime i give it a decent amount of gas it just pops alot.
it is throwing code 23-fuel thermosensor?? Could this be the issue?? can someone please help me as finding this sensor and if anyone has ever heard of this problem

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The fuel thermosensor is the sensor which is in the fuel rail. It's basically the same sensor as the coolant thermosensor, just different location. It will cause the car to run in limp mode with that code being thrown.

Check the photo below of the secondary fuel rail. The fuel thermosensor is the green one in the middle:

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the replay man! i was able to figure that out last nigt. with it in limp mode would that cause it to literally sound like a big port?? as in very choppy? ill try putting up a video here in a bit

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

IIRC, the car should start and idle normally in limp. You just don't have ignition advance and fuel is pulled if vacuum isn't seen at the manifold.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

where would you guys start checking... i plan on checking resistance of the thermosensor tonight. are the coolant and fuel thermosensors interchangable?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Change out the fuel temp sensor. Those two sensor may be interchangable, but you'd have to check the part number to be sure.
And unless you left some things out, nothing in your mod list justifies dual fuel pumps and the "re-wire". So personally, I'd consider returning that a little closer to stock.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

i checked and the parts are not interchangeable. ill check the resistance to see if its the sensor or wiring. the previous setup on this was a differnt motor and single turbo he just left the pumps in. i was considering a adjustable fpr for the time

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Make sure the fuel thermosensor and coolant thermosensor connectors arent switched. This is common and will cause the car to idle really rich once warmed up.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

i tried switching them and still the same. like i said as well im wondering all the solenoids are not plugged in besides the last one for the fpr to run through and the omp has been deleted as well

djseven

iTrader: (56)

OMP deleted on Stock ECU will cause limp mode instantly. Shouldnt cause it to lope at idle but will backfire and pop as soon it nears possitive intake pressure(boost). You can plut an OMP in, just the electrical connection and tuck it out of the way next to the PS pump and not actually hook up all the lines to fool the ecu. Your best bet at this point is to buy a PFC and go from there.

Check map sensor, TPS and make sure none of the injectors are leaking. Also if the car sat for awhile it wouldnt hurt to empty the fuel tank and put in fresh gas.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

thats how it is as of now the omp is plugged in just tucked out of the way. still throwing a code for it. im going to plug all solenoids in tonight and check the fuel thermosensor. ill post up results

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ok so tested the fuel thermosensor at 3.52 of resistance and that was without starting( as i couldnt get the car started tonight!) im getting a good thermosensor tomorrow and spark plugs,hell possible wires. also going to replace the harness that goes to the coils as its pretty hacked. i do have a couple of connectors i have questions about. ill post pics

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

VID_20121225_234858.mp4 video by t2ae | Photobucket