may just replace the engine or rebuild as a cold compression test last night showed about 75psi on each face front and rear rotors

talked to a few people and they all say it should still start and run on that compression. just put known good primary injectors and ecu in and still wont start on first start.....

Man i am in the same boat. started before, wont run now. but with a FD and power FC.

I didn't read through this thread but what parts of the fuel system have you check?

fuel pump,filter,fpr,injectors and lines..i really dont think it is the fuel system as i can pull the primary rail out and watch fuel spray when trying to start. all pressures are good as well

Stock ecu or PFC?

Stock

So I read through this thread and the last one about this car, lol. Considering the mods that are on it you shouldn't be running the stock ecu. I'm not the first to say it. Between the exhaust, dual supra pumps, and all the gauges I wouldn't be surprised if the last owner ran an aftermarket EMS and just took it out when he wanted to sell it. I mean it has a wideband o2 sensor and a stock ecu :scratch:

...anyway...so the OMP is removed yet still plugged in to clear the CEL. What are you running for premix?
How much are you mixing?
Are the injector holes plug properly?

And could you clarify something for me...in the mods list on the first thread you said it has a port matched LIM...you don't mean street port do you? extrude/honed? :scratch:

Could you take a video of you trying to start it cold?...it would help a lot to be able to hear what's going on.

sure i can post a video tomorrow, the first post i posted was directly from the seller. as for port matched im sure its not ported imo just from driving. yes holes are plugged proper and premix i am using 1oz per gallon of idemitsu racing oil. i understand that a ems would be alot better but i dont see that keeping it from a first start

jeez guys.....so yesterday i put the harness back in the car after checking every wire and still nothing unless some starter fluid was sprayed... so i went to check all voltages and resistance at the ecu pins and decided i would start with the engine coolant temp just to verify and it was reading .37 volts when it is suppose to be near 2.5 volts @ roughly 68 degrees. long story short found another coolant temp sensor and wam it fired up. let it sit over night and it started again this morning. guess the moral is to never trust new parts lol. anyways glad to have it starting again and in my situation the coolant temp sensor DID CAUSE A NO START CONDITION.

Congrats!

If you walked through the FSM, that was one of the checkpoints:

yea if you read through my thread that is one of the first things i did. i bought a new one but that one was bad as well....

and that also says partial combustion, i had none lol

thanks again for all who helped along the way!! car is running great now. just also found out my iac was bad as well. car runs alot better with it just blocked off and holds idle great. check engine light does come on and off at times but doesnt throw the car into limp mode so it doesnt bother me