found the problem!! now off to more wiring!

what did you find?!

.??

main chassis harness was f***ed! i was checking voltage going to the injectors and was getting a constant 10v reading even with the relay and key out of the car. after some diag found the main black/white wire that feeds ALOT such as all of the solenoids,etc melted showing bare wire and melted to at least three other wires therefore causing all sorts of issues. i have a new harness in just havent had time to mess with it as its been cold lately

jesus guys......i dont know what the hell to say!! still the same cold start problem

I had the exact same problem, spent forever checking sensors, the wiring, and every conceivable throttle adjustment. In the end, I decided to get a pfc, just to see if it could help me troublshoot the problem. Wierd thing was that as soon as I installed it, my cold start problem just went away. To this day, I can't explain why the car runs ok with the pfc, but not the stock ecu.

Justin

not that im against that at all, i just hate to throw parts at anything and especially something that
pricy ya know??

I hear ya, I was at the end of my rope before pulling the trigger on a PFC. Maybe think about borrowing an ecu from someone to test with, just in case there's a problem with yours?

Current codes are 9,28,30,38,39,42..
9 is the map sensor....could this be the big problem?

Bump?

Check Engine Light Codes


9 & 42 will be your problem children. However, they shouldn't prevent the car from starting.

im taking a break from working on the car for the past couple of days. i plan on going at it again this weekend. last i checked the map sensor (code 9) was showing some crazy voltages around consistant 5.7v? if this is the actually case i can see it causing all kinds of issues.....anyhow ill keep this updated

Did you look at the link above?

9 - Water thermosensor

update fixed codes for the water thermosensor and the map sensor. runs great now but still not cold start. im really starting to worry about this being a coolant seal as it was a b***ch to bleed and even on the first start i can see bubbles come throught the coolant when i have the cap off

If your concerned about the coolant seals, I'd recommend doing a pressure test, its the quickest way to figure out what's going on.

Justin

plan on doing one tonight. does it matter if the car is warm or not?

when I did the test, I just did it cold and it was pretty conclusive that there was a leak somewhere internally (I ended up pulling a spark plug after the test and coolant actually came out of the plug hole).

Be sure to pressure test the caps while you're at it!

Justin

will do, i only have the one cap on the thermostat housing as the others have been deleted

ok so pressure tested everything ok. help steady at 13-15 with no problems. did find my lower radiator to leak thought lol

I thought it is supposed to hold pressure. If it does not, it means an injector is leaking. Or maybe heat soaking to over pressure and pushing past the fpr.

question is how long should it hold? if it sits over night it will be at 0 in the morning

so i guess ill update this to those who follow** still battling the cold start issue. as i've stated before on a cold start (first start no matter if its snowing or beaming 100 degrees) the engine will crank just fine but will not try to start at all. No spit spudder NOTHING. spray a little carb cleaner or brake cleaner and it will spudder and then start. Hold the rpms around 3k for maybe 20 seconds and it will hold a idle perfect at 8oo rpmish. i have no check engine lights now either. if you shut the car off and go to restart it it will start no problem.
other main problem is bleeding this thing i was and still am concerned about a internal coolant seal or something as you can start the car with the cap off the thermostat housing (also my only source of filling coolant as the ast has been deleted) and it will have bubbles coming out right away. you can also hear the coolant boiling inside the thermostat/waterpump area after the car is warmed up.

any ideas?

heres a short video to see if you guys have ran into anything like this. im battling this first start issue still. in this video you will hear when i hold the gas pedal steady the rpms will hunt, almost like its either cutting fuel or spark. this does this at any rpm. its not the tps or map sensor. any ideas i would love please! also found out that if i unplug the coolant temp sensor, the fans will come on. is this right? as stated before the car will not start on first start ever. it will just crank and crank with no spit or spudder. spray some brake cleaner and it will spudder and start. if you shut the vehicle off before it has a chance to warm up say 40 seconds you will have to spray some brake cleaner in it again to start. otherwise let if warm up for say over 40seconds and it will start back up on its own. PLEASE GUYS HELP ME OUT

come on guys noone???