t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ok so i just fixed my fuel pressure issue by finding electrical tape in the primary fuel rail!!! anyways the car is running alot better now on both rotors, question is i am still experiencing the sound of a port mainly at idle. when free revving it sounds great no miss or anything. if slowly giving it gas it misses? any ideas or common problems?? new plugs,gas and wires already in. and no the hose is not disconnected off the map sensor

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Could be a lot of things. A bad clutch switch will cause rough idle.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

so where would you start? i know there are not any vaccum leaks. could any of the solenoids cause this? i have all the solenoids plugged in just no vaccum lines running to them as the rat nest has been removed

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

GreatShamanGT

iTrader: (9)

Do you have anymore details about your setup? For example, do you have an aftermarket ECU, sequential or non-sequential twins, etc?

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

Stock ecu, full exhaust, supra fuel pump, rat nest removed with solenoids still connected. Bought the vehicle as it is. Looks to be non sequential as the flap is welded. It does have a bad exhaust leak which j am going to fix probably next.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

any other ideas guys?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

What's your idle rpm?

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

About 1200

Tem120

iTrader: (5)

that idle seems high for not having a vacume leak check the 3 check valves by the throttle body in the uim and see if any of them are bad ,

and adjust the main screw maybe its opened up tomuch

also coils may be going , what is your alternator voltage . when my alt was going i would get miss fires at idle when it was charging only 11V , new alt and it doesnt miss anymore

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ill check that tonight, i just bought a house so free time is hard to find lol. which three check valve are you referring to as all the factory "rat nest" has been removed. still has soleniods plugged in just no vaccum lines going to any besides the one for the fuel pressure

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Get yourself a Power FC. The stock ECU can not support the current mods. Full exhaust and emmisions removed will cause the ECU to alter the fuel map too much causing your issues.

Once you have the PFC installed you will be able to go into the idle cells and remove 10% fuel, turn the O2 sensor off and your car will start to run much better (as long as the engine is healthy and there are not a bunch of other issues)

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ok ill look into that, as of now i drove the car yesterday around the block and it did fine. didnt get into any boost just drove normal

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

update** went to adjust the tps sensor and found the tps faulty only showing .33 volts all the time no matter what, you can turn it and the voltage stays the same

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

That'll cause some issues ^^^

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

i got another one so ill put that on and adjust that and see where i sit

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ok update with car.... i drove it today but still with kind of the same issue. im having trouble with the tps adjustment. on the narrowrange it is just at .65v...even if turning the tps left or right the voltage does not change. also if revving the car to full throttle the voltage does not change. any advise?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Start by validating you have the TPS installed properly:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...1/#post7073722

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ok i found out i did in fact have the tps installed wrong causing the voltage to stay at .65v...
i reinstalled the tps and adjusted it to the correct readings. narrow range closed is at 1.21 v
wide open at 4.99v driving home last night the car was wayyyyyy better on cruising, no more bucking and missing. although the first inital throttle response is horrible. it acts as if it chokes out for a second then catches? the car went into limp mode last night on the drive home as well probably because the omp has been deleted and some of the solenoids are throwing codes. can i just run resistors to get rid of these codes and keep from going into limp mode???? thanks so much guys im making alot of progress!!

djseven

iTrader: (56)

You have to atleast plug an OMP in to get out of limp mode, you dont have to fully install it but you need to plug it in and hang it out of the way up by the oil filler neck.

You will need resistors for all 8 of the colorful rats nest connectors.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ok ill check that because it is plugged in just hanging to the side but the previous owner extended the wires so im sure some wiring is wrong. any idea on the throttle choking out?

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Reset all your idle adjustment screws.

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

ok ill check back in later with updates! thanks for the quick replys

86boy

iTrader: (1)

have you checked the CEL yet? you can put a jumper wire in your diagnostic port and it should flash to let you know what code it's throwing. Like your TPS issue... that would have shown up in the codes. If you have a JDM/UK cluster there's still a way to check your codes with a resistor and an LED in the Diagnostic port as well. I would also check that to make sure none of the other sensors are screwy...

t2ae

iTrader: (5)

thats the funny thing the tps wasnt throwing a code....but yet it was bad. i just made some 330ohm 1/2 watt resistors to put in place of the solenoids on the rat nest to clear those codes. after i install those i will se what if any codes return which im sure the omp code will (therefore causing the limp to kick in). just need to spend some more diag time hard to do while fighting a cold and its in the 20's at night!