NHrhdFD

iTrader: (1)

Hey Everyone!

I recently bought my first rx7, always wanted one and it was my dream car since I was a kid

I am having an issue with it, it could possibly be apex seals and the engine might be bad, but before I install my new engine that I got from addicted performance, I would like to try and diag anything that could possibly making my issues happen.

So when I start the car it runs, I drive around and it has boost for about 5 minutes (until it warms up completely). After it warms up, it is still drivable but will not boost, it try's to boost and then the (boom) happens. If I try and boost after it warms up it shoots flames and pops like crazy (note this is good if someone is tailgating me ) but it is not good when trying to enter the freeway without boost..

Any and all information you may have please chime in.
Car is a 97 Rx7 type R

Cheers and thanks in advance!

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

There is nothing temperature dependent about apex seals. Sounds like the car does have some major problems. Pretty easy to do a compression test, to tell you the health of the engine.

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

Doesn't sound like an engine but more like a plumbing failure. The Y pipes on these cars crack over time and there is plenty of plastic that's old and cracks due to all the heat cycling.
The popping could be the engine loading up with fuel because there is no air from the turbos.

I would start with finding your failure point on the boost. Find The leaks and replace the parts with known good pieces. If you find that the Y pipe is cracked then upgrade it to the metal Efini one.

An easy way to check compression in each rotor is to pull the fuse for the fuel pump, remove the plug on one rotor at a time and have someone crank the engine. You will hear a wooshing sound as the rotor spins around the housing and passes the plug. If you hear 3 consecutive whoosh sounds that have the same frequency then you most likely have intact apex seals on that rotor, you will hear a distinct difference in the sound when one of more apex seals are broken at each compression stroke of the engine.

After you verify the one rotors seal check your plug and replace it in the housing. Then do the same with the next housing.
It's possible YouTube has a video of this but I didn't search.

Btw where in NH are you?

NHrhdFD

iTrader: (1)

Banzai and Zoom, Thanks for all the input! Zoom I am located in southern NH, Manchester area.

I recently went to radioshack to grab a resistor and led to check the ecu for codes..

This is what I came out with, hopefully someone will be able to put some more input for me on where I should go from here.

The codes that I got were as following,
27 - metering pump, open or short circuit or sticking of MOP sensor
32 - Secondary air switching valve open or short
46 - Solenoid Valve, Charge Relief - open or short circuit

Any ideas on how to fix these? As I stated before I am new to the rotary life and need all the help I can get!

Thanks guys and gals!
Nick

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

The OMP code sends the ECU into limp mode

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

As many issues you are having I might suspect your harness is toast but you would have to have a look and see how crispy it is. I would also look for connectors that are broken or unplugged that could be causing the codes. If the motor has been replaced sometimes people break the connectors that go to all of the sensors and accessories. The harness is usually pretty crispy by now at this age if it's still the original harness.

I used to live in Stratham NH. I don't know of any rotary specialty shops in your area but it's been 12 years since I lived in NH. Depending on how much free time and ambition you have you can work thru it.
You can check the sensors for resistance. Each sensor has a resistance range when checked with a meter. Be prepared to start digging and looking for faults in that harness. If you have a brittle harness it may be worth replacing. I've replaced engine harnesses in one day with help from a friend.

Keep your eyes out for cracked plastics when taking things apart. Replace what's broken and cracked before putting it back together.
The harness diagrams are available in PDF format as well as the service manuals. You should have those on your computer and read those over and know them for quick reference.

We all start out the same way getting familiar with these cars.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

doesn't sound like an engine issue but i wouldn't rule it out. even a single apex seal failure will cause the engine to run like a lawnmower, and with as much power. add in limp mode from the OMP and i wouldn't even attempt to drive it. start checking by visibly inspecting the OMP and its connectors. the ACV codes won't really affect drivability.

Templeton

iTrader: (10)

Take the car by Synaptic3 performance in Candia, they're the local FD experts and less than half an hour from you

Templeton

iTrader: (10)

Saw a silver FD driving through Manchester tonight, would that be you?

NHrhdFD

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the replies.

It was not me in macnhester the other night, mine is white